[SOLVED!!!] What's the strangest reason your truck wouldn't start? (Yes, I need help)

If I can get spark to the plugs, I would try that. Once I can get spark, this will be my next step.

 

Yeah, I used the FSM and checked the primary/secondary coil resistances, and that there is power to the primary with the ignition on. Still no spark.

 

If I had to guess "EI" is electronic ignition

 

Please be a fuse

 

This is what happens when you're new to the 3RZ. It seems that these two "fuse holders" are actually diagnostic ports. The TE1/E1 is used to retard timing during a timing set/check and the FP/B+ is used to check fuel pump operation without cranking the engine. Jumpering them is how you activate them. There are a couple of threads out there that suggest jumpering the FP/B+ terminal makes some engines run. I'm cautiously optimistic and will read more on this before I try it.

 

Don’t have any useful information, but am along for the learning experience.

 

Since you were unsure if it’s fuel or not, this is an instant check you can do now to rule out fuel as the issue

 

Thanks for tuning in. Here's a quick summary of what I have learned (or re-learned, as the last time I did an engine swap was in 2001).
1. If you have an engine that won't start, it's pretty much one of three things: No fuel, no air, or no spark. Makes sense.
2. If you have fuel to the fuel rail (that feeds your fuel injectors), then it's likely not a fuel problem.
3. I honestly can't think of why an engine wouldn't be getting air, but I suppose it could happen.
4. No spark can be any one of a number of problems, but in my case, I have learned it is most likely one of the following:
- ECU (Checked, not likely the problem)
- Distributor (Including the primary and secondary ignition coils inside of it, cap, rotor, air gap, etc. which all checked good, replaced anyway, still nothing)
- Igniter (Original checked good, replaced anyway, still nothing)
- Spark plugs (Brand new, properly gapped NKGs...not the problem)
- Spark Plug Wires (Also brand new NKG, pass resistance check, not the problem)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (Original and replacement both checked out good, likely not the problem but a bear to replace because you have to remove the alternator and bracket)
- Loose connections (All checked), broken wires (there is continuity or not everywhere it should or shouldn't be), or fuses (all checked good)
- THE MYSTERY REASON THAT IS OBVIOUSLY WHY MY TRUCK WON'T START.

There are a few other things I've learned that you can read from previous threads. There is still a slight possibility that it is the ECU. I cracked it open and checked the resistance of all resistors on the top and bottom of the circuit card. The OBDII throws no codes, and the ECU came from a known working vehicle (how long ago, I don't know - I got it from Ebay). I don't think this is the issue, but unless I paid Toyota to check it, I can't really know for sure.

I bought a non-EGR "new" (reprogrammed) ECU from a company called FS1. It was supposed to be for a manual, but it arrived with the extra port for the automatic transmission. When I hooked it up, I got a flashing Check Engine Light (CEL) and the OBDII wouldn't even recognize that it was connected. So, I'm going to see about returning it for the proper, 5spd manual ECU. It only took them almost 7 weeks to deliver the first one.

I guess that's where I'm at. Someone will hopefully chime in and be my savior.

 

I will get some tomorrow and try it.

 

A thought just came to me. This might not be of importance but I have a remote starter on my truck and I'm unsure of what your setup is. That being said I have had issues where the truck will not fire just turn over with the wrong key.

In my Tacoma I replaced a remote start system and wired in a new one wire to wire but the new system will not fire the motor, unless I put the key into the on position then it'll fire and I can turn the key off and remove it and it will stay running.. I don't know why this happens and haven't even tried to figure out but perhaps your issue has something to do with the ignition switch?

 

I had a 5vz that would crank but no start. The wiring to the crank sensor was backwards. Swapped the wires around and she fired right up. I know you replaced that already. Just an idea.

 

It's unlikely, because the ignition is original 1985, but I will still check the wiring out. Thank you.

 

Maybe it's more an ECU ignition compatibility thing?

 

I admit, I am really only familiar with the 5VZ. My truck did not start once due to a somewhat loose positive battery connection.

What about your neutral safety switch..? Or is it cranking just not starting?

 

Hmmm...I will check that. It's a three-pronged connector that only goes in one way. That being said, it is possible that the people who made the wiring harness got it wrong. I'll check that out, thank you. It makes sense.

 

Another good option that I will have to check into. Before I swapped out the 22RE, it would start without the clutch engaged, and without having to press the Clutch Start Cancel. Maybe because the CSC switch wasn't doing anything, it is somehow disabling the start with the new engine. And yes, it has been cranking and just not sparking. Power to all of the right places, just some gremlin that's preventing the firing signal to the distributor.

 

After a starter replacement and several days of going in circles it was found that the PO had installed a hidden kill switch in the back of the cab which I inadvertently hit while trying to manuaver a chainsaw out.

 

Dude, I was also just thinking of a kill switch somewhere in the mix that OP might be unaware of. What a bamboozle

 

Well, I will check that too. I was monkeying around under the dash to install the new OBDII connection port...

 

Well, turns out the clutch start cancel isn't needed because there isn't one. Haha. But, I checked around with the wires and nothing seems out of place. There's an old KC Hilites double switch that I tried in all possible positions with no luck. The 22RE had A/C, and the 3RZ doesn't yet. Shouldn't matter but there may be some remnant wires hanging out under the dash. Tomorrow I'll take the plastic off of the dash and inspect the ignition and other wires under there, since I did mess around under there putting in the OBDII and the oversized T100 brake master cylinder (which I highly recommend). Thanks to all so far for the responses. I'm determined to figure this thing out.

I didn't mess with the Crank Pos Sensor other than to add some dielectric grease hoping it might make some magical connection. I will make a jumper rig tomorrow and see if switching the pos and neg wires fixes it. I just hope it doesn't fry it because it is a huge PITA to replace.