Kyle's SR Access Cab Build

My “micro footprint” Bussmann is almost done. I just need to modify some large gauge cables and it will be ready for install.





I did a test fit and think everything should line up nicely. I have Metri Pack 280 connectors coming for all of my existing exterior accessories. Took about 2 hours to write everything out and make sure I got the right terminal and seal sizes for the accessories. My bed lights are 22 awg so that will be fun... never worked with the tan Metri Pack seals. The goal is to have a Metri Pack 280 Male + Female at every accessory (to mate the accessory to the wire harness) and then obviously a Metri Pack 280 Male to connect each accessory to the Bussmann.

 

I’m going through this as we speak. May just get a bunch of everything. Love my breakout harness that I got from you. So very clean. Also considering those waders even though my waters are about to blow out.

 

Finished my main power and ground cables. Then I found a flush voltmeter that I used on my Jeep and decided to throw it on there. The way it’s wired it will tell me 1. What my battery voltage is. 2. If my Bussmann is receiving power in the case I’m having power issues with an accessory. 3. If my Bussmann is dead in the case that I intentionally disconnected it and want to make sure I don’t get shocked. The draw from this thing is nearly negligible so I’m not concerned having it reading my battery 24/7.



Final layout and ready for mounting:

 

After over 2 years of searching for the right boxer I finally found my co-pilot. Charlie will be terrorizing my truck, boat, and everything else I own starting May 10.

 

Damn, here I was trying to ignore your thread, but now there will be a puppy.... so subbed

 

Started the transition from spade connectors on my exterior accessories to Metri-Pack 280 today. Knocked out the super long run from the rear of the truck to the engine bay. In the back I have bumper lights and bed lights so I made a new harness using all of the old wiring as a measuring tool and combined them into a single loom. Some of the ends don’t have Metri Pack connectors in this picture because it was just easier to run the wiring that way.



Undoing the old wiring resulted in a bunch of junk lying around. Kind of horrifying going over old work.



Needless to say it makes me feel better knowing I have more robust connections on these accessories.




Just need to zip-tie everything and it’ll be done. Then all of my other accessory wiring is in the engine bay and just needs to be swapped over to new harnesses / connectors.

 

Never seen your build till today.

Was searching for how to hardwire my air compressor, didn't find my answer here hut ai must say I'm jelous of your wiring cleanliness.

I think my electrical spaghetti might give you a heart attack.

At least it's all fused.

 

I’ve made a few kits that help people wire their compressors without cutting stuff. If you need help just let me know!

 

I'm actually most interested in what connections you're using and the tools you have to crimp the ends etc.

I'm still using spade and butt connectors (though I did get the proper ratcheting crimp tool) just because I don't know of quality alternatives that are readily available.

When I use factory style connectors I usually get them from the junkyard with 4" or so of wire from each end then solder to my actual wire runs with heat shrink but there's got to be a better way.

I hate wiring so most of my stuff is hastily thrown together junk, it's fused it's not going to get caught in anything but it ain't pretty.

Tomorrow I'm running a section of 3/10 to the back of my truck Compressor + and Compressor - and the 3rd conductor will be my low voltage (usb charger and such) + which is then body grounded.

I'm curious your opinions as you really seem to know what you're doing where as I know just enough to be smart about how I'm being dumb.

Are you an electrical engineer or some such?

How do you run your switch leg wires into your cab and to switches for your accessories?

I definitely need help on how to wire my compressor pressure switch, completely lost on that.

Thanks mate!

 

The tools are either an open barrel crimp tool (interior / non waterproof) or a sealed crimp tool (waterproof). The interior connectors I use are typically an OEM equivalent depending on what I’m doing. For standard wire to wire connections I use Molex mini fit Jr. because they’re lightweight. Exterior (waterproof) I use Metri Pack 280 or Sumitomo 090II TS series. Both very robust connectors.

3/10 might be a little overkill for the outlet, but it doesn’t hurt. For the compressor it’s right on. Typically we use XL series wire in automotive electrical. Something like GXL or TXL is standard.

Not an electrical engineer I’m a neuroscientist. I work with electrical just about every day but just in a different field. Things have to be organized otherwise I’ll lose my shit.

Switch wires go through the factory grommet near the steering column. I build a nice harness when running multiple wires through the wall. Use braided loom as it slides easily through the grommet and keeps things tidy. The big switch harness has a connector on the end (crimped after it goes through the wall) and plugs right into my switch panel (color-coordinated connector in this picture):

 

Where did you get the metal bracket for the bussmann? or did you make it?

 

I worked on it with @paranoid56 — he should have the design file still. Fits perfectly!

 

This is what I currently have that I made and I'm gonna get rid of the terminal block with the red x for a 5pin plug
Just trying to tidy up my engine bay of the wires

 

That should work! The extra ground bus is a good idea.

Snagged a set of amber backlit SSC2’s to replace my ditch lights. I’ve got a design for a chase light circuit all around the truck that I’ll be working on over the next couple of months (or longer... because I take forever on stuff like this). I want the backlights to be on a switch but I also want them tied to my hazard lights. That way they flash on lock/unlock and when I hit the hazard switch

The lights came with a nice Deutsch connector... but 3” pigtails?!



I de-pinned the connectors and re-crimped new terminals with 12” extensions. Since the wires will be visible I loomed them to hide the colors. I also chose 18 awg for the backlight wire as it’s much more appropriate. Stuck with 16 for the main light.



Finished them with heat shrink and a quality 3-position sealed connector to interface with the wire harness. Just need to work on my wire harness and connect them to the Bussmann.





Then it’s off to working on the hazard circuit and gathering all of the other chase lights.

 

I just received my SSC2’s and discovered the 3” dilemma as well and need to perform a similar procedure. Would you share the 3 pin connector you used? Trying to save a bit of coin rather than using all Deutsch connectors. Molex maybe?

 

So the way I did it I replaced the terminals inside of the Deutsch altogether so that I could have extra long leads without having to splice an extension. To do this you need Size 16 Deutsch terminals 14-18 awg (SSC2s use 16 awg). Instead of buying a super expensive tool you can get the "stamped" version that allows you to use your open barrel crimp tool (so 6 or 8 of these). I broke the wedge locks when de-pinning so I had to get 2 more of those.

To make my wire-to-wire connection I used Sumitomo TS 090II sealed connectors (very similar to what Toyota uses on the exterior). A female on the light-side and then a male on the wire-harness side. I really like to keep my connectors uniform so I am swapping them for Metri-Pack 280 3-positions I snagged from a buddy... but they are on a national backorder otherwise. I didn't put those in the pictures as I have to track down terminals for them. You can use a sealed Molex just fine (or unsealed -- I just follow the sealed = outside and unsealed = inside convention).

 

SSC2's are mounted up and the first part of the wire harness has been constructed. Tomorrow I'll connect it, zip tie, and then work on the hazard switch function (assuming I have diodes).

 

Got it done right before work this morning. The backlight is on a dedicated switch + it will flash whenever the hazard circuit is engaged. No back-activation because I found some very oversized diodes. I love it!!! Time to gather more backlit lights and amber accents.

 

Small series of “first day” mods I should have done a while ago.

Aluminum filter housing + fumoto for drip-free oil changes. I also got a really nice filter wrench and a stainless filter drain tool with a hose. Even got some 3/8 impact extensions just for the oil filter! I’ll get this installed this week.


Rear diff breather relocation. I’m actually almost done with this mod but need to get a different rubber clamp to neatly post it behind my tail light.


Also ordered parts for the A/C drain mod. Gotta get the small things done before we head back to Oregon at the end of the month!

 

Finished the rear diff breather relocate. Not too bad of a mod, although I had to use some lube to get the hose over the new union. Went on nicely and it's snugged up tight.


I left some slack in the hose (you can barely see it) to account for axle movement. I don't think it'll stretch all that much as the diff breather is in the center of the diff; it's not on the end like the brake lines (diff oil is from me messing around too much -- it's been checked for leaks).


Ran the hose alongside the wire loom that goes up to the tail light and zipped it every 8" or so.


Secured it to an existing stud using an M6 nut and a rubber hose clamp. I think it looks pretty tidy! This tail light is busted but the plastic that is still available didn't have any issues mating with the factory tail light bolts.

Bonus helper photo