RSI Smart Cap

I've owned several fiberglass caps over the years, and while cheaper, they all seem to leak a lot, and parts/pieces do not seem to fit well--like they were assembled by folks on drugs. Trying to get theses problems addressed has always been a PITA for me too. OTOH, the SmartCap seems to leak much less, and everything fits perfectly. The windows all seal tightly. But that's just my opinion, FWIW. I also like the looks of the SmartCap over the SUV-look of the fiberglass caps.

 

I was looking around for any long term reviews of the cap and I found the following video. It seems like rust may start to appear on the outside walls of the cap, and some others on the video are commenting that they're also seeing rust and corrosion.
https://youtu.be/M2txdQ6HbSA?t=443

 

I remember watching this now. It was the only video I could find of someone who had owned one for a while. I avoid YouTube comments like the plague so I did not notice those, however.

That is a peculiar place to rust, and I would think regular washing and waxing would do enough to deter that. I am far more concerned with the springs and locks in the latches - mostly the locks.

 

Here is my progress sealing up the truck bed while the cap is removed:
I siliconed each corner where the cap meets at each panel, because the rear was leaking, as well as the front now. So I preemptively did all 4.
This photo shows the plastic rails, which I ran a bead of silicone underneath from the front all the way down the back.
The Butyl tape is interesting, my first time using it. After removing the front bar and then the plastic fill pieces, I cleaned everything and went to town with butyl in the corners. I then reinstalled the plastic caps (that came with my tonneau) and then filled around them again with more tape.
Then I ran a bead of silicone underneath the front bar and reinstalled it.
I used the tape again in the rear of the bed, near where the tailgate meets. I shoved the BT inside of the gaps and then covered it with the waterproof tape.
Inside view of the corners
I also ran some silicone right by the BT in the corners because the front bar had these tiny lines in them and I wanted those to be sealed up as well.

I think I have sealed most of the holes and have a good idea of where the water was leaking in from. Before I reinstalled my RSI cap, I wanted to see if there were any other suggestions.... Thanks

EDIT: should I run silicone on the INSIDE of the bed where the mounting rails are(the rails used to tie things down) do these leak at all? Mine have a bunch of tiny rocks in them, I think from the leaks from the tops of the plastic bed rail covers, but wanted to be sure. I can always do this while the cap is installed. But might even be easier to do if I removed those accessory rails and cleaned and then sealed them. But this might be overkill...

 

what made you decide to leave the tonneau cover attachment points on there? they look like they would get annoying.

 

You know, I asked someone (forget who, maybe the RSI rep) and they suggested to just leave them. I also wanted to have the option to use the cover if I ever wanted to change my set up. They really aren't in the way at all. But not as clean looking as it could be.

 

Love the write up and appreciate the photos to go with it. What silicone seal did you use?

Looking forward to a follow up after you re-install the cap.

 

I thought those would help. Even myself to make sure I am not missing anything.
I used this stuff called Lexcell. Its like a clear silicone type thing. I heard its better.
I am getting anxious to get the cap reinstalled and water tested! I will update when I do. Until then, waiting to hear from any other members if I missed anything.

Here are some quotes from two other threads that I followed to seal the bed:
"Here's what I did, in order of importance/priority. There are separate threads on TW describing each step.
1) seal the huge gaps at the top-front of the bed, where the side rails meets the front rail. Use putty (black putty or RV style putty tape)
2) seal underneath the black plastic side bedrail caps. Use silicon sealer or something better (I used Geocel Proflex) The caps need to be removed. The sealer is applied to the metal side.
3) seal the gaps in the plastic bed near the tailgate. I used RV putty tape.
4) use weatherstripping to seal the tailgate itself (there are kits you can buy for $20-30)
5) hope your canopy doesn't leak."
"100XR? Been there, done that. May god have mercy on your soul.

0. Use a butyl-based sealant, such as asphalt or roof sealant. Available at Home Depot and very cheap.
1. Take off the front header rail. Pop out the rubber caps on both ends, seal them, then run bead of sealant UNDER the rail, then mount the rail back into original position.
2. Fill the gaps on both ends of the rail as much as you can. In fact, overfill them to the sealant is a bit higher than the adjacent rail.
3. If your cap will have a front removable window, it'll leak around the perimeter of the window.
3.1. If the front window also has a slider, it'll leak in the slider.
4. If your cap has windoors, they will leak around the perimeter.
4.1. If your windoors are sliding variety, they will leak at the slider.
4.2. Can you guess what the locks on your windoors will do? If you guessed "leak," you're a winner!
5. Before installing the Leer canopy, take off your bedside caps (plastic ones along the top of the bed sides) and apply sealant underneath them. Also consider adding some thin (1/8") weatherproofing to act as padding between the cap and the bed, otherwise the cap will scratch the paint underneath it once the canopy is on.

Fuckin' enjoy."

Standing By

 

So ya live in Canada A? What part? Worst part of RSI so Ive heard is freezing locks/handles. Don't recall that on windoors. I love the cap, but there are definitely shortcomings that need to be considered, weight diff is only like 200lbs.
Dzm

 

Just finished installing my lights in my canopy. I used a deustch plug for lights just in case i needed to take the canopy off. Ran the power wire through an existing whole with the 3rd brake light wire.

 

Yup, I live in Vancouver! What are some shortcomings you've experienced with the cap?

 

What’d you use to secure your LED light wires. In need of something to secure to the cap without drilling.

 

If these are the Matt Gecko lights the LEDs come with adhesive on them.

 

I just used the double sided tape that came on the back of the LED light strips. On the ends of the strips I used a drop of gorilla gel glue. If any of the strips start to fall I will use the gorilla gel glue to reattach them.

To secure the wires from the LED light strips to the power source, I used these with some zip ties:

$7 XHF 100 PCS 3/4" Black Self Adhesive Cable Zip Tie Mounts Wire Cable Clips Holders Management Anchors Organizer Holders Squares(HS-101S)

https://www.amazon.com/XHF2018-Adhe...rds=zip+tie+mount&qid=1619040760&sr=8-2-spons

 

Where did you tie in the power for the strips? I would think tieing them into to the bed lights would be a decent fit.

 

This is by far the easiest solution and has everything you need to do it:

https://mattgeckoleds.com/shop/ols/products/toyota-tacoma-led-camper-light-kit/v/G2 SB -C

It's what I used

 

I set up a aux fuse block and switch in my rear cubby. You can probably tap the bed lights since the led strips take minimal power.

 

Shortcomings:
Shortbed - appears too short vs longbed - appears about right length - not my issue since I have a DCLB and it's subjective...
Positive pressure vent - water intrusion
Latches - not only will / do locks freeze, but water pools in the latch cavity after washing, rain, splashes...anything involving it getting hit by water. Wash the truck, come back 3 days later, still has water pooling in the latch cavity. How to get it out other then sopping it up or letting evap take its course, I don't know?
Wiring - Gen 3 and the third brake light wiring - really need to re-wire myself and then wait for them to send me a correct 3 wire hoping it's correctly wired for polarity (which it was)?
Third brake light - mine leaks from washing, rain etc....was told to seal it with caulk myself and see if that works - why caulk a new cap?
Mounting rail - once torqued down to 9ftlbs, tend to bend downwards towards the bed rail bending it out of shape - gotta be a better method.
Front window - happy to report no leak yet, but not looking forward to having to remove the cap just to clean either truck window or cap window since cap window is soo small
Wish I could get one "A" side panel and one "Sport" side panel for dogs so they have a window/air flow.

Biggest concern I don't have experience with yet (only two months old) is seeing reports on here about "rust/corrosion"...huh...wha...it's supposed to be painted stainless steel?

There's plenty of other shortcomings on here. But the BLUF should have been - would I buy it again - yes.
DZM

 

Front Runner Load Bar update:
The 40 mm feet are back in stock. Those who placed back orders they will ship out Tomorrow. If anyone else was waiting hit me up.

 

The other day I re-installed the cap. Wasn't that difficult using my pulley system. i don't see any gaps or holes. Everything seems covered and sealed. I also installed the ultimate tailgate seal kit with the rokblock. And placed a few more foam inserts around the rear window to make sure water can't leak back into the tailgate area. The tailgate is hard to close now, but I should be covered for leaks and help out somewhat with dust... No pics at the moment as I just finished installing the tailgate seals and am eating dinner.