UTAH (and Surrounding Areas) BS Thread

That sounds like a great option. I'd actually come to the conclusion that 'Id just have a shop bend the tube for me and I'd do the cutting and welding myself so I can get it exactly how I want it.
I've put the project on hold for a week or 2 so I can get the bathroom floor and shower tiled and keep the wife happy until she dreams up her next home reno project. This too shall pass

 

It’s not even loaded yet.

Yes, all of the above. Can’t Waite to see what the the new rack and RTT add

This is definitely a concern. Next mod, perhaps.

 

I'm hoping some folks here can give me some advice besides the obvious that I'll point out later...

I bought my truck with an Icon 2"-2.5" lift and control arms already installed on it. It also came with 285/70/16 tires on it which I never rubbed unless I was at full lock(it was rare though).

I ended up buying some 18x9 wheels and put 275/70/18 tires on them.(<--Tire choice was the obvious fuck up) I did that after a lot of searching and reading thru threads here on TW and needless to say I rub, its not horrible, but I do. This is under normal street driving conditions. I'll take the L here.

Few weekends ago I did the 'Viper Cut' which does help a smidge, I'm going to buy a heat gun and push some of the fender liner in more where I can see where it rubs, and I also plan to get an alignment done to bring the caster more positive. The caster adjustment is another thing I've read about on here...It makes sense, but is totally new to me. I've also considered doing the cab mount chop, then buying the spanner wrench from Icon to lift it just a smidge more...Not that I think more lift will really help as it should just be tire width/rim width that is really the problem here, no?

Did I make a serious fuck up here and will pretty much always rub till I can get smaller tires, or do I have other options that won't cost me a ton?

 

I’m sure someone can give you a better answer, but I’ll take a crack at it. Your new tires are about the same size as the old. The new ones are slightly narrower. I’m guessing the new wheels have a different offset? Most likely a larger negative offset.

 

Hey, thanks for confirming the information in my post. I trusted the guy I was talking to, but still ya gotta wonder...

 

What is a "far drive"? Less than a hundred miles?

Go up Spanish Fork Canyon and turn on the county maintained dirt roads before you get to the Thistle turn off. You might have to go to Thistle and come back down because of cement barriers. Lots of empty country north of the hiway.

 

Better milage too from my experience.

 

Same.

 

Chop the cab mount. Potentially swap to spc upper control arms, that’ll make the alignment adjustment so much better. Your tires aren’t too big, but you may need to do some cutting to clear. I’m assuming they have a pretty negative offset.

 

I'm an E0 man. The Sinclair on Wasatch (next to the Einstein's) is my go-to gas station.

I pay attention to Pure-gas.org and plan gas stops from here to wherever based on where I can get E0. (The Chevron Just before you hit Highway 6, the Travel Center Conoco, just east of Panguitch, etc) I consistently get over 21mpgs.

E0 FTMFW!!

 

I really wish there was a way to know that the rear axle is actually rated for. It's easy to upgrade tires/springs, but if the axle is the weak link (or possibly not). It'd really help to make better/safter decisions.

I know in NZ/Australia, they take GVWR very, VERY seriously, so there is a whole industry built around GVWR uprgrades for overlanders.

I wonder if Toyota kept the GVWR rating low on the Tacoma to push people into Tundra's for the vehicle tax loophole.

But yeah, does anybody know what the rear axle is actually rated for?

 

Reread his numbers. The ones you put in the calculator aren't the same. His new ones are much taller:

 

Those mud flaps are cool!

 

Your wife needs a matching skate deck:

https://toolanddyedesigns.com/colle...eboard-deck-7-ply-canadian-hard-rock-green-v1

 

@H3llRid3r that's amazing. Please tell me you'll weigh it again after the rack & tent are on, I need to know!

 

@H3llRid3r : "My truck weighs HOW MUCH"

Scale operator:

 

Some of the weight shifted from the front axle to the back. Not sure why.

Edit: I will easily add another 150 to 200lbs for a trip.

 

Only 20 pounds shifted, but that's likely the effect of the weight of the added tent and rack behind the rear wheel using the rear axle as a fulcrum and slightly lifting the front.

 

So only 320 for the tent +

Wow that's an impressive amount of weight. Most guys think about brakes to stop it, but my thoughts to straight to supercharger to make it gooooo

 

Was going to go camping this weekend for the first time this year and boom...... 11 mo. old Aussie comes into heat on Wednesday ...