Door replacement - wireing issue

Hello! I have a 2012 black access cab Tacoma. I recently replaced my damaged driver's side door with one from a different year. I unfortunately did not get much information from the junk yard about the new door. It is black but has a sparkle to it, unlike my 2012. The door is plugged in, but the windows now do not work in my truck. None of the buttons work on the new door: the door lock/ window lock/ window power buttons. The passenger window also cannot be controlled by the passenger door button. The two large connectors and the one to the door controls are snug. I'm wondering if there is a wireing difference between the second gen tacomas? I still have the original door with its working wiring, but I'm hoping there is a solution besides rewireing everything on the new door with the old wires. Thanks!

 

Sounds to me like you blew a fuse or you have a bad body ECU. Check all the fuses here with an ohm meter.

 

So what you have is a black sand pearl door off a 2010 and down Tacoma. Any chance you still have the old door? Would swap the switches and wiring over from the old to the new one, I think there wasn’t a window lockout button on the older ones.

 

Is their a retraining process on our trucks? I know that under certain situations, you have to retrain the power windows in some vehicles.

 

I once disassembled my passenger door because the window wouldn't roll down any more.

Turned out to be the window lock on the drivers side! Everything worked fine, just never imagined there'd be a window lock on a 2 door car. Wasted like 2 hours tracing wires and testing switches.

But yeah sounds like a fuse or body ecu in your case, good luck.

 

He said it still works with the original harness? The BCU isn't reading the new signal?

 

I read it as 'it worked' (not 'it still works') with the old door wiring. But in any case, there may well be differences in '12 and '10-down wiring. I only have an '05-'06 wiring manual, and an '05 truck to look at. However these are just wires and switches, not like a can bus or whatever, so there's no 'training' or 'learning' required for the ecu. Either a bunch of wires aren't connected, making lots of things not work, or two wires are connected in a way that is wrong, which has made a fuse blow (or maybe messed up the body ecu but I would be surprised there.)

Here are the complete diagrams for the '05 windows and doors. As you can see the power for all window motors is routed through the switch assembly in the drivers door. Testing the fuses and then for voltages at key points is where I'd start, because it's way easier than swapping doors or harnesses.

Here are things that would help with diagnosis:
-Are all the fuses good?
-Does the passenger door lock button still work?
-Does either door lock actually move, e.g., with the key fob?
-Do any other power things work in the new door, e.g., the mirrors, speakers, or the window button lights? (in my car, the "auto" on the driver window switch lights up at night)

A set of diagrams for a '12 would also help. Good luck!

 

Not totally disagreeing with you on the wiring part. But there is a possibility of disagreement on how the BCM process the information. Since I am researching the process to adding remote keyless entry to my tailgate, I have ran across information within the following post that referances the possibility of having to retrain the BCM after disconnecting the door harness (sorry I can't remember the exact page). \/ \/ \/

2019 Tailgate Lock - PN: PK3B6-35JS0 | Tacoma World

Also, Like I mentioned earlier, I'm not certain that the issue even exists with our trucks. But I have seen an issue with other "modern" vehicles that I have owned where the power window "Logic" needs to be retrained after leaving the battery disconnected for a certain length of time. For these reasons, If I were the OP, I think it's worth researching further. Just my $0.02

 

@mk5 You sparked my curiosity enough that I did go look at my 3G owners manual. There is only one reference in the "re-initialization after battery disconnect" section. And it only references the Moon Roof (If applicable). It did not reference the Power Windows in this section. However, there is a section under Power Windows that talks about re-learning the "Jamb" settings. Not sure if this applies to the OP's Gen (or his problem)? But, If it could corrected his problem, it would be an easy fix.

I'm not interested in researching the issues found in the above link.