How can OEM cv axles be identified?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-blowing-cv-boots.146070/page-8#post-11316058

Honor? Fine, just don't start blowing kissys.

Toyota remans? I have no idea who does them. I suppose one could assume that their remans meet some degree of factory specs but I wouldn't bet on it. They should at least have Toyota boots.
CVJ is just the current forum favorite and seems to stand behind their offerings. I suspect most shops including CVJ are just boot jobs (for the most part). Maybe a bit of parts juggling from the "good" used parts bins. Seal surfaces can be polished but the joints themselves come down to being "still good" or bad. There is no actual rebuilding going on, just parts replacement.
The cost of a new joint itself is likely more than the going price price an entire "reman" shaft.
Mr @License2Ill once looked into purchasing just joints for some project, he might have some price figures.

That fellow who was breaking lots of CVJ shafts was essentially breaking OE stuff and likely would be breaking anyone's. There were two folks here in Co blacklisted by NAPA for returning like a dozen shafts each, in one year.

"A mans got to know his limitations"
Dirty Harry

 

ORS or Off Road Solutions (original retailer of the 1st Gen manual hub kit) told me they'd sell me manual birfs & shafts for iifc $90 per. But they didn't have extra stock at the time, outside of their manual hub kits.

I ended up purchasing manual birfs from the dude in the 2nd Gen forum who does the 2nd Gen manual hub conversion kits. SidelineHero was his name I believe. Toyota birfs @ $125 iifc. I reused my ADD shafts so no idea where to source those.

 

Outside of purchasing the oem reboot kit? No sir. I try to not booger mine up when converting/rebuilding cv's so I have spares.

 

I was actually able to get some from CVJ. As long as I know I can get them from somewhere I'll be good!

 

Good deal. Did they sell you outright? Or did you buy CV'S from them?

 

Just the clips. I had a few SDHQ boots I was using for rebuilds

 

Here's what the aftermarket pedestal looks like on my Advance Auto CV. Too lazy to dig my truck out of the snowbank to take pics of my spare OEM right now

 

They come with dog hair inside

 

My whole life has dog hair on it. I posted a thread once that included a picture of my AC vents, and a guy asked my why my truck had pubes(dog hair in my AC vents).

 

Everything I own is covered in dog hair

 

You mean everything they own

 

What exactly is the difference between manual CV shaft and ADD shafts? Is it the spline count at the diff?

 

Manual cv shafts don't have a threaded end for an axle nut as they don't use one.

They're also a little smaller in diameter than ADD shafts, I wanna say 6mm iirc but don't quote me on that. It's a pretty small difference

I was able to install a manual hub axle into my ADD tube because I bought one by mistake so they're the same as far as that goes.

 

So can I use an add front diff locked with a hose clamp with add (green) CV axles and manual locking hubs?

 

I was able to install one by mistake not realizing it was a manual hub cv until I went to put on the axle nut. So it fit on that end. The rest, I dunno... Someone who's done that before will have to confirm

 

Interesting.
I need to do some more research apparently.

 

No.

The wheel end of the cv axle, as described above, isn't threaded on the manual hub cv axle. Which would mean the ADD cv axle end is, and requires a nut to hold it in place versus a snap ring and manual hub body.

 

T4r's must be different.
I just watched a vid on a 4runner where the guy had a jshift and converted to manual hubs with his og green shafts after doing the c clamp mod to the front diff.

 

You're not listening.

Tacoma ADD and 4Runner ADD are identical and use the same setup.

Ignore transfer cases as you can have a j shift or push button with ADD cv axles.

With that being said, you can use an ADD diff tube with either manual hub cv axles or ADD cv axles. Reason being, the diff ends on both cv axles are the same.

On the wheel end, as I stated earlier, they are different. @eon_blue also mentioned that manual hub cv axles are skinnier, and again, are not threaded which means they can only accept manual hubs on the wheel end.

Not only that, the axle hub pressed into the spindle allows only for manual hub cv axles.

ADD cv axles are a bit thicker, therefore, utilize a different hub axle pressed into the spindle. Last but not least, the ADD cv axle on the wheel end is threaded and uses a 35mm nut to hold it in place.

Nothing to research, its all spelled out.

 

Similar to the original post, I'm trying to discern whether the CV axles on my 2000 Tacoma (4X4 with A.D.D.) are OEM or aftermarket. Truck has been mine for a while but not sure whether prior owner replaced them. Reason I'm curious is if they are OEM I'll just reboot but if they are aftermarket I'll replace with OEM or the CVJ remanufactured ones (which are only $50 or so cheaper than OEM new if you factor in the core cost). It's difficult to discern but I understand there are some hallmarks of the OEM axles, including (i) green sticker/label on the axle itself and (ii) the fluted contours of the differential-side piece that serves as the female housing for the tri-pod head.

I have no green stickers nor remnants of green stickers and the part numbers on the boots and clamps look aftermarket, though of course the stickers can just wear off and the boots and clamps could be aftermarket even if the axle is OEM.

Any thoughts on whether these are OEM or aftermarket CV axles? Grateful for any insights.