TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Well, it happened again this past weekend... Lack of power in 2nd/3rd/4th gear above 4k rpm. It's like the ECU was altering something to account for tank of fuel which resulted in cutting power. It felt like I was back in my NA 1st gen - pedal to the floor and just sitting at 4500k rpm and not accelerating.

I'm almost set up with a tuning laptop and a MPVI2 for logging.

What can I look for to confirm my suspicions of bad fuel?

In the meantime, does these fuel trims look out of line (from the Ultragauge - just cruising on the highway between 60-75mph)

short term fuel trim [1] 0.00 / [2] 0.78
long term fuel trim [1] 10.16 / [2] 10.94

About 30k miles on the DeatschWerks 255LPH fuel pump (URD Fuel pump/filter kit.

 

Yeah, you got some nasty fuel trims going on. Assuming you were cruising which it appears you would be at 65-70 mph. It appears you are lean. The usual suspects for lean are either MAF is failing, fuel pump or fuel filter cloggage, or even injectors failing. Based on what I'm seeing, assuming it would be injectors, that would indicate all of the injectors are starving the engine of fuel and if you are running orange TRD injectors that would be highly doubtful, but anything is possible.

If you have access to fuel pressure testing, it would be highly helpful to be able to test for that based on the fact that you have no power above 4500 rpm, which I have seen be caused by fuel starvation.

The other possible suspect could be clogged up cats limiting power on the high end causing your trims to go out of whack.

When did this all start happening? I need to know the dirty low down on your mods.

 

Update: So after a few weeks I check the status of the monitors and see if the faults are still there. I did this because the light went out for about 2 weeks. All the monitors were set and the faults were still in the system but not current. I cleared the faults and drove the truck for a few days. The monitors set again and no faults this time. New coating of the cats that needed to be burn off?? At least I have one less head ache now. haha!

 

Got the SC pulley today. Just waiting on the NST drive belt pulley kit. Got an email saying a batch of them will be done soon too if anyone else was waiting.

 

This seems like a one-off thing and the truck has not thrown a CEL.

Truck is currently ~74k and I had the exact same symptoms 5,564 miles ago.
That time, I was fairly confident it was bad gas (filled up 10.537 gallons).
When I arrived to the next town, I picked up a 5.25oz bottle of STP Octane Booster and added it with 1/2 tank of fuel remaining. Within a few miles, the truck was running normal again with full power.

This past Saturday, I filled up the tank (12.546 gal). Same symptoms as above with no CEL. I drove for about 80 miles before taking a photo of the Ultragauge showing the ~10 values for the long term fuel trims (LTFT).

This time, I haven't done anything yet because I'm kind of pissed that I got another bad tank of expensive premium and may have them refund me the $50. I did fill up again when I had ~1/4 tank left, but the remaining hour home, the truck still ran at reduced power the whole way. I didn't add any octane booster - just filled up with premium (91 here at ~5k feet Colorado).

• Truck engine is stock + TRD blower with Tacoma fit kit (so injectors, etc).
• Toyota installed with TRD tune with 3,150 on the truck. ~74k currently (due for a supercharger service soon)
• 2.6" pulley (expand spoiler below for more details)
• 255lph DeatschWerks pump / filter (installed at ~42k, so ~35k miles on the pump)
• aFe Magnum Force Air Intake w/recently cleaned and re-oiled filter
• Trans fluid & valve body untouched (DIY full flush planned soon)

Expand Spoiler for mileages of things installed and when (supercharger, pulleys, air box, et al):

Spoiler: DETAILS

 

I feel like I remember the last time you got bad gas. It's crazy what a bad tank will do to an engine (at this point high performance engine) the ones requiring high octane are especially sensitive to this and I have seen it many times before. I would do a disconnect of the battery for an hour or so in order to let your PCM relearn to zero.

 

Went up to LA and picked up the front end. Couldnt be happier. Got it all mounted on the truck and she rides like a dream.... except for the back end now. Lol all sloppy and disgusting. Working with Icon to repair the busted rear shock. @jojotoo great guy to work with.

 

Just noticed the new NST SC crank insert pulley no longer has the two holes for the crank tool. They must have gave up tapping the holes after the last batch didn't line up.

 

I noticed that as well when I opened up mine.

 

Those two holes are pretty useless as far as I'm concerned.

 

At least Magnuson was able to get it right. lol!
It would be nice if they were there and functionable.

 

Yup, started bump method to remove the nut and then red loctite with all the ugga duggas to tighten it

 

I would had preferred mine without those holes anyways. It adds ugly value to the pulley. Lol.

you had me captured until you wrote "red loctite" brother.

 

Bro.....you had me captured until you wrote "preferred mine w/o the holes.."

Blasphemy! Weight reduction FTW! Because #racetruck

 

Using the holes is for rookies and owning a boosted Taco truck is for knowledgeable gearhead gentleman who understand the concept of knowing more than one way to skin a cat.

 

Bro, red loctite on all the important parts. Despite what people on the internet say, it’s not permanent. I use it on probably 75% of the suspension bolts on my truck.

 

I must be old school in my thinking. If it didn't come with loctite then it doesn't need it going back on. You are from the MX world where things vibrate themselves loose though so I get it.

I know it's not permanent but I still cringe at the sound the words red loctite though. Lol.

 

Honestly we very rarely used red on mx stuff. Maybe a few big engine parts but that’s about it. Then blue here and there.

I think it’s just how I drive my truck, the last thing I want is something on the suspension coming loose. Even with nylocks for the majority of the bolts I’ll use red. It’s all big grade 8 stuff that can take some heat if necessary to come apart. And since I don’t necessarily check all the nuts and bolts before each time I take the truck out it’s just some extra peace of mind I suppose

 

Is there anything special to installing the NST sc crank pulley or is it basically just pull the old one off and swap this one on? If yall have any tips i'm all ears

 

pretty much that. only tricky thing is if you wanna swap out the dowl pin.