Rear Seat Delete Decks

Not smart, but very cute

 

OH MY GOD THAT'S TOO DAMN CUTE! And very very funny!

 

Ok, solved my issue on how to fill the 30" (minimum) width of the rear/side window on a double cab using the racing style cargo nets. Finding cargo nets to fit was a pain since most are only 18" and the longer ones get pricey quick.

These will work perfectly, are not gonna break the bank and I can use a third to keep her out of the front seats.

Cargo Net Offroad Net Auto Roof Net Hammock Compatible with 1997-2020 Wrangler TJ JK JL and Unlimited

https://www.amazon.com/TEANTECH-Off...Q8Q72S0CMCEN&refRID=33CDQF6AQ8Q72S0CMCEN&th=1

I will attach them somehow. Any ideas on how to do that would be appreciated, including drilling into the door to use a ring hook with a carabiner. I want to be able to remove them quickly but still be able to roll the windows up and down in case we run into a storm or on dusty trails or water crossings.

$14 TERMATH 12 Pcs 304 Stainless Steel Pad Eye Hooks,Screw Hooks,1.8"es String Lights Hook,Plant Hangers with Screws Anchors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SNH9JF...&pd_rd_r=0dc0c7ba-2151-4c73-ad29-f7ccaec2f0c2

$7 10 PCS Stainless Steel Carabiner Clip Spring-Snap Hook - Lotsun M4 1.57" Heavy Duty Carabiner Clips for Keys Swing Set Camping Fishing Hiking Traveling

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DTCM52...&pd_rd_r=76c01aa5-c784-410d-89a4-29759efaf897

 

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FOR CNC SEAT DELETE:

(Edit: 5/5/21- Design has been updated for easier assembly. Images have been updated)





Before I begin I would like to apologize for the following VERY LONG post. If this post hi-jacks this thread, it is not my intention. And I apologize in advance if it does.

I have received so much interest in my CNC Seat Delete design that I have decided to offer it for sale. While the price is less expensive than others, it is still costly due to material costs, rented cnc time, shipping, labor, etc. If you are interested in purchasing a seat delete, please feel free to DM me. This seat delete is designed to work with the factory cubbies located behind the rear seat. It is also designed to be easily installed for the weekend or permanently installed depending on your needs.

This Rear Seat Delete is part Pro part DIY. My hope for posting assembly instructions on this thread is to help those that buy this design, while inspiring others that want to make their own.

This Rear seat delete design must be assembled, sanded, sealed and finished by the buyer. Hardware not included.

Notes on Seat Delete:
Dimensions: 52.5" wide by 32.5" deep by 7.25" tall

Materials: 3/4" birch plywood

Assembly: Holes come counter-sunk but must be pre-drilled before screwed and glued together.

Assembly Hardware: 1 5/8" screws and wood glue (not included)

Finish: Your choice of Monstaliner (roll on) OR Raptor Liner (spray) OR Automotive Carpet

Cargo Hatch Lids Mounting: (48) 6MM WIDE x 8MM TALL Magnets (can be found on Amazon)

$9 30 Pieces 6 x 8mm DIY Personalized Multi-Use for Fridge Door Whiteboard Map Bulletin Boards Refrigerators Magnets

https://www.amazon.com/Personalized...words=6mm+x+8mm+magnets&qid=1619732183&sr=8-3
- Glue into place with Super Glue or Epoxy

D-Ring Hardware: This Rear seat delete is designed and the file is programmed to use 4 D-rings by US CARGO CONTROL https://uscargocontrol.myshopify.com/products/2-track-anchor-point-tie-down-kit-black
*Let me know if you plan to use different cargo mounting system*

**If you plan to use this cargo mounting system, you MUST purchase (4) 1/4-20 x 2" flat head bolts. These bolts will be used to mount the front two d-rings.**
------------------------------

INSTALLATION:
-The rear seat needs to be removed.
-Remove the plastic factory covers for the floor storage.
-Remove the rear seat belts.
-Leave the factory plastic cubbies behind the rear seat installed.
-Once the Rear Seat Delete is assembled, the Rear Seat Delete will easily fit and can be bolted into place *( If a permanent installation is required, use angle L brackets connected to rear bolts of two front seats and bolted to face of Rear Seat Delete (we cannot provide this hardware).
------------------------------

Now for the fun part:


ASSEMBLY:

1) Unpack crate and check to make sure all parts have arrived safely
Part List: (1) Seat Delete Main Platform
(2) Seat Delete Side Panel
(1) Seat Delete Front Panel
(1) Sear Delete Back Panel
(4) Cargo Hatch Support Rings (2 of 2 Different Sizes included)
(4) Cargo Hatch Doors with finger relief (2 of 2 Different Sizes included)



2) a- Align Front Panel with (1) Side Panel.


2) b-pre-drill holes using counter sunk holes as guides for placement:


2 c- Glue and screw Front Panel to Side Panel:



3) Repeat Steps 2a - 2c on Remaining Side Panel:



4) a- With Steps 2 and 3 complete, lay Seat Delete Platform on the Side-Front-Side Assembly:


4) b- Line up Seat Delete Platform with Side-Front-Side Assembly and Pre-drill, glue and screw together:



5) a- Place the entire Assembly upright on its face and connect the Back Panel to it:


5) b- Before pre-drill, glue and screw, be sure to align back panel with the back of the Assembly by using the relief forms as alignment indicator:


5) c- Pre-drill, glue and screw Back Panel to Assembly:



6) Place your Assembly upside down on the main platform. It should now look like this:



**NOW LET'S ATTACH THE FRONT CARGO HATCH SUPPORT RINGS TO THE ASSEMBLY**



7) a- Standing at the Rear Seat Delete Right Corner, grab the Cargo Hatch Support Ring w/ TWO Large half circle profiles on the Bottom long edge and TWO SMALL half circle profiles on short Right edge. Make sure the when looking at this Cargo Hatch Support Ring, that the counter sunk holes that the counter-sunk holes are visible. (There are a difference between the counter sunk holes meant for screws and the pre-drilled holes meant for magnets).




7)b- Align this Cargo Hatch Support Ring by sliding the Support Ring forward so that the TWO LARGE half circles butt with the most inside front surface of the Rear Seat Delete. Once the Support Ring is as forward, make sure to slide the Support Ring RIGHT so that the TW) SMALL half circles butt with the most inside side surface of the Rear Seat Delete.





7) c- Using bought (2) 1/4-20 x 2" Bolts and the US Cargo Control D-Ring Base, thread bolts up from underneath Assembly, through holes of Hatch Support Ring:


7) d- Install mounting plate, washer and bolts and loosely tighten:


8) a- The bolts of the D-Ring should be holding Cargo Hatch Support Ring in Place (Loosely). Now locate the pre-drilled divots on the underside of the Rear Seat Delete Assembly. You may need to move the Cargo Hatch Support Ring to locate the divots. Place a screw through far corner screw hole of Cargo Hatch Support Ring and locate a divot. Once divot is found with tip of screw, Screw into place:


8) b- screw remaining screws for this Cargo Hatch Support Ring into place.

8) c- once all screws are in place, tighten nuts and bolts of the D-ring base.


9) Repeat Steps 7a-8c for the Left Front Hatch Support Ring


**NOW LET'S ATTACH THE TWO REAR HATCH SUPPORT RINGS TO THE ASSEMBLY**


10) a- Using the same technique of the front Cargo Hatch Support Rings, simply align a Rear Cargo Hatch Support Ring by sliding it forward, so that the TWO LARGE half circles mate with the cut-outs of a Front Cargo Hatch Support Ring. **MAKE SURE THAT THE COUNTER SUNK HOLES ARE VISIBLE.






10)b- Once aligned, screw into place, by placing screws through counter sunk holes. Be sure that this Cargo Hatch Support Ring stays in place and is mated to its front Support Ring.


11) Repeat Steps 10a-10b on last remaining Cargo Hatch Support Ring

12) Mount Rear D-Ring Base, using provided bolts, nuts, washer and mounting plates and tighten:


13) Invert your Rear Seat Delete Assembly so that its right side up, and it should look like this:

------------------------------

**Great Job. Your Seat Delete is now assembled. Clean up, take a break, Fit assembly into your Tacoma and make any adjustments or changes needed. Next we will be Finishing the Seat Delete.**


Materials needed for Finishing your Seat Delete:
1) Sander and 120 grit sand paper
2) Bondo or Wood Filler (I prefer bondo)
3) Oil Based Polyurethane Wood Sealer
4) Disposable Brushes
5) Finish Coat (Raptor Bed Liner (spray) OR Monstaliner (roll) OR Automotive Carpet - YOUR CHOICE)
6) (24) 6MM WIDE x 8MM TALL Magnets
7) Epoxy or Super Glue
8) Black Spray Paint


FINISHING:
1) Remove d-ring hardware and Using 120 grit sandpaper, sand the entire Assembly to a finish that you are happy with:


2) a- After sanding is complete, spray off any dust. Using Bondo, mix up a batch and fill all screw holes, seams, and any other imperfections. Let Bondo filler dry:


2) b- Once Bondo is dry, sand all Bondo Filler so that it is smooth with the surface. (Two or more coats of Bondo maybe needed in some areas).


3) After all Bondo Filler is sanded smooth and all surfaces are to your liking, spray off any and all dust. Using Oil Based Polyurethane and a disposable brush, "seal" the entire Seat Delete Assembly. This includes the top and side surfaces, the back surfaces, the edges and the underside. (You may need to coat the top surface in one pass. Then let dry. Then flip Assembly over and "seal" underside.


4) Once Oil Based Sealer is dry, sand Assembly again to surface quality of your liking.

Now the Seat Delete Assembly is ready to be finished in the material of your choosing.

Personally, I decided to use the roll on monstaliner, which has a very thick consistency.

As a result I chose not to bed line the underside of the Cargo Hatch Doors and the Cargo Hatch Support Rings. I spray painted them black instead.



5) Final Finish Material: If choosing to use monstaliner, follow directions, mix and apply appropriately. It is thick and messy and smelly. Manufacturer claims that it takes a full seven days for the liner to cure hard. I have noticed that it takes about as long for it to off gas and even then it has a strong aroma.


6) Once finish material is dry, reinstall d-ring mounting hardware.


Mounting Magnets to Hatch Doors and Hatch Support Rings:

!!!BE VERY MINDFUL OF MAGNET'S POLARITY!!!

1)a- Take a stack of magnets (4-6) and put masking tape around them all the way to end. Use this taped stack as your control to maintain the polarity of your magnets.


1)b- Take your taped stack and connect it to a magnet


1) c- With your Rear Seat Delete in upright positions, find a hole for a magnet located on a Cargo Hatch Support Ring. Add a small dab of epoxy into this hole and by using your taped stack, press fit a magnet into the hole. The hole is tight, so once you get the magnet started into the hole, you may need to use a punch to hammer into place so that the top surface of the magnet is flush with the surface of the Cargo Hatch Support Ring.





1)d- After this magnet is placed correctly, Repeat steps 1a - 1c for all magnets on the Cargo Support Hatch Rings, (24 magnets in total).




2)a - After all the Magnets are placed in every hole of the (4) Cargo Hatch Support Rings, connect six magnets with the magnets previously installed into a Cargo Hatch Support Ring.



2) b - Take a Cargo Hatch Lid, one that correlates with the Cargo Hatch Support Ring, and add a small dab of expose into the magnet holes. Then take this lid and line it up, so that the freestsanding magnets line up with the holes of the lid. Once lined up, press down firmly, seating the magnets into their proper place.







2) c- once magnets are installed into lid, check to make sure lid "locks" into place.

3) Repeat 2a-2c for the three remaining Cargo Hatch Lids.


Congratulations. Your Rear Seat Delete is complete. Install into your Tacoma and ENJOY!



Thank you!

 

Just wanted to give a huge shout to @RippNSh!t

When i saw his CNC seat delete I immediately DM’d him and within a few days we figured out the details to order one. He kept me posted on the progress every day and I received it today.

Now I just had ankle surgery so I can assemble it quite yet, but even the shipping crate is gorgeous!

Thanks again!

 

Thanks for the inspo guys, I almost never carry anyone besides my partner and our dog, so the rear seats are mostly for sound deadening and filling the space back there. I opted for something simple and affordable. I decided to keep the rear storage and split the panel into 60/40, I plan on utilizing the 40% section for my second battery, fuse box, solar stuff (basically all my aux power). The base is beefed up with 2x4 supports and can carry my weight without any issues. below is my photo dump


the following measurements is what I got using a level


not usually this messy....




and here is the final product




I'm waiting on these to secure the back panels

I should mention that I went on a rough and bumpy test ride, this thing is holding up well. I already sound deadened the whole cab last year, it's as quiet as it was with the seats (I'm half deaf anyway...)

 

Holy shit this is absolutely freaking incredible! So cool!

 

Start a sale thread. It will be seen by more people in the for sale section of Tacoma World. I suspect you will have some customers.

 

There’s still that 50th post that needs to be met

 

Exactly

 

Thank you!

 

I sent him a PM. Hope we can get something going! I was originally going to use this thread as a guide but like the idea of less work...

 

Excellent work and assembly write up.

I have the goose gear model. They should pay you to write up their assembly instructions. They are a joke.

 

You got instructions?

 

Yeah, watch the 3rd party outdated youtube video lol.

 

That’s how I did it!! We’re twins!

 

Missed that! But he is at 48 right now so not difficult to get those last two.

 

Yea, I've been here a little while and have seen plenty of super detailed write ups, my own included. Yours is incredible. I wish I had the money because I wouldn't even dick around trying to build my own after seeing this. Great job Aaron!