What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

You should be running 2 ga. or 1/0 directly from the alternator to the battery, then from the battery to the fuse box with 4 ga. or so. You can pull out the alternator fuse from the fuse box while you're in there, it's not needed.

 

My alt fuse is 120amps

 

Gotcha!

 

The main thing you're trying to accomplish is getting juice from alt to battery... increasing wire guage, etc, to the fuse box doesn't do anything to actually help with that. The fuse box is downstream from what you're trying to do.

And as @Blackdawg pretty much said, the main fuse is going to be a limiting factor on that side anyway.

 

in the stock fuse box? You must have swapped it out I take it?

 

Nope. Came like that. I was surprised to honestly. Says 120 on the lid as well

 

interesting. wonder if you had a higher output alt as well.

Either way. run the alt to the battery.

 

I know its a really short run, but a fuse or a circuit breaker is there to protect the wire. I run a 150 amp CB between the alt and the battery.

 

FWIW the reading from my scangauge is significantly less than the USB voltmeter that I replaced one of the 12v outlets with that I have wired direct to the battery.

 

@Dan8906... FWIW I am also measuring direct. (not through scan/ultra guage)

 

That’s awesome!

 

OK, so this is the first I've heard of the CS144's party trick. Can you tell me more about it? I got the (well, have on order) the 105A since it seems like an easier plug/play...am I being short sighted? I mean, in reality, I don't have any trouble with my OEM alt, so maybe I'm overthinking things in the first place.

 

Smoked marker lights

 

Somewhere, it has been a while, there was a chart that plotted the power output (amperage) for the cs144 and the OEM alts as the alt rpms increased. The important range of rpms was ~800-2000 as I recall. The stock alts lagged by quite bit in that range.

I don't think the denso 105 was not part of thst comparison.

 

yeah i guess that thread on ExpoP is dead. Odd.

happy reading: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...trail-rig-and-bs.159436/page-141#post-6283584

Although the real nice one from expoP is dead which is a shame.

Also of note, you can get two different pulley sizes, a 51mm and a 52mm, the 52 naturally puts out more.

Not sure how you've missed this in our other discussions. It's why Mike and I have one.


That said, considering how much you're driving, the 105 is probably fine. The CS144's party trick really comes in handy during winching if anything.

But, it is cheaper, easily replaced at literally any parts store pretty much, and puts out more total amps and much higher at idle....so...yeah.

All you need is a spacer which is easily found at a hardware store.


I mean...it makes sense, look at the size difference:





install with spacer here.


Oh you also can just buy a plug n play pig tail to convert it right to the toyota harness for like 12 bucks or something instead of hacking together something like what I did. That wasn't an option back in the day haha

 

Thanks both. I should probably clarify - I knew of the CS144 and the fact that lots of folks (including you guys) run it. I also knew that it's reasonably easy to install and just needs that spacer. What I didn't know about was the low-RPM, higher-output "party trick," which might have been enough for me to overlook the size difference (my engine bay is already too full) compared to the 105A. Anyway, I'll take a read through those posts you linked from Franks thread.

 

yeah i mean that was the whole point of going to the CS144 over a High Output stock casing alternator option.

but, probably again would be totally happy with the 105 denso.

 

Excuse my ignorance, but why is the battery cable/fuse box replacement referred to as "the big 3"?

 

Not even sure why it's called the "Big 3" (It's actually 4 wires you're doing) and none of those wires are the wire to the fuse box.

1 - Increase wire size for body ground (wire from negative post to fender)
2 - Add ground wire direct to frame under battery to negative post
3 - Add ground wire direct to engine from negative post (I think the best place for that to connect is the upper alternator bracket bolt)
4 - Direct wire from alternator to positive post on battery.

 

Only issue I have with the Cadillac alternator is the oil filter is now a bigger PITA to get out but that's about it