TORSPD: NEVR

Had just a short amount of time to get some work done. Turned out extremely well, and even added a Top Coat.

Removed the rock guard from in front of the radiator to now protect both the intercooler and radiator. After having mounted the intercooler lower support.




Intercooler is intentionally routed rear-ward, to clear the hood, and have the top most portion not be blocked by the front of the hood.



Already planned out the intake charge tubing routing. Hoping it goes quickly tomorrow. As well as make the top intercooler supports.

 

Hey buddy, do you have any intimate knowledge of the ABS systems on our Taco's ? My e-brake assembly post disc brake conversion is just too weak so I am looking at options :

• Separate e-brake disc caliper - would require a custom backing plate with tabs for both the main disc caliper and the e-brake caliper
• T-Case output shaft disc brake - nobody make one for tacos post 95 I believe, this is the type that sandwiches a thin disc where the drive shaft bolts to the output shaft and then typically a bracket is made that bolt to the back of the t-case to hold the caliper.
• A hydraulic line lock system on the rear brake lines - seems to be the easiest and cheapest by far : https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...r9IS56CueQxRna8TLVZpO-Mxs9gZYTqBoCoecQAvD_BwE

The line lock would be installed in line on the rear brake output off of the master cylinder. IE: mount the line lock under the dash, route the rear brake line from the master to the line lock then the output of the line lock goes to the ABS unit. While the truck is still running you depress the brake pedal and engage the line lock which holds the line pressure as if the brake pedal was still fully floored so your rear calipers are now your parking brake. Another advantage is that I could strip all of the OE parking brake stuff off of the truck, foot pedal, cables & gut the e-brake crap out of the rear brakes = that's probably 40 lbs of stuff which by my butt dyno estimates would feel like adding at least 50 hp right ?

** The million dollar question ( or maybe just a 6 pack ) is if the ABS module is not going to like it for any reason ? IE: after the truck is turned off do the solenoids in the ABS module open up / relax which would reduce the line pressure you are trying to use to hold the calipers locked on tight ? It seems like the ABS module would never think anything different than if the brake pedal was depressed...right ?

Any thoughts ?

 

That's a good variety of ideas. Let me first ask you this though. How long ago did you do the rear disk swap?

The reason that I ask is that I did mine a long time ago. Have had troubles with the e-brake working like OEM.

When I helped @Lucario Runner install his swap, he had the more recent and updated version. It, as best I remember, works as it should, like OEM. I request his input as well.

 

I did mine a few years ago. I've heard a lot of people had complaints about the e-brake strength and Tom even has a pretty descriptive disclaimer on the kit now :

"Note: This kit includes parking brake option. However the OEM drum parking brake is superior to the the rear disc conversion parking brake for 2 reasons. 1) the oem parking brake shoes are larger & have approximately 50% more friction surface. Also the OEM drum diameter is larger in diameter as compared to the drum inside the rotor."

It is such a complete pain in the caboose to install and service that I would honestly prefer to rip it all out and try the brake line lock idea...working on that e-brake drum set up in that gap behind the axle flange is no fun at all to put it mildly. I've also had those little clips fail on my twice while driving, the first time the stamped flare on the end of the pin just broke off and most recently one of those little slotted washers popped off the end of the clip. Both times I had some pretty remarkable metal on metal sounds emanating from my rear axle ...

 

I recently ( probably 3 months ago) completely adjusted the cables and the internals. Made it "better", but not as good as can be. The "best" that I have seen was when someone added a drift brake lever. Now that isn't what you're after, but it's effects are. Which is where I see having the ability to line lock it, when you want to clamp the hydraulic brake lines.

Ultimately easier than adding an additional set of calipers, unless you are a machinist.

I was extremely frustrated when I installed mine. So much so, that I waited years to re-adjust them. Lol. Pretty sure that I refused to help Lucario Runner with his as well. Hahaha.

 

In boring unrelated news to line lock kits, this managed to get accomplished tonight.



Here are some reference photos of how high it is tucked up.



Plenty of clearance for the travel.

 

Sounds like you have the first iteration. when @Torspd and I installed his it took us awhile to grasp how it routed and how to set it. I'm fairly certain you both have the same setup. I did mine and it was fairly easy to set and I went from no ebrake to the ebrake setup in a weekend.

 

We did the non ebrake version on my truck cause I'm stupid.

 

I was like let's fix urs cause it rolls back and ur like nope. Lol. On mine I did it at my house cause I needed to pass state inspection and the fucker never tested the ebrake. Fml.

 

So are you wanting a setup like the euro cars where you have a main rear caliper for the braking and a second one just for the ebrake. If so you could most likely run it in a separate hydraulic system.

 

no, my main interest is in trying the line lock idea because it is easiest, cheapest and I could then remove all of the cable driven crap completely off of the truck but i am trying to find someone that may have a deeper understanding of the ABS module to assess if the idea is viable

 

If the system is correctly bleed then I don't see an issue why it wouldn't work. You still have working brakes with the engine off w/o it's assistance, granted it might work in reverse then what is normal for the line lock.

 

Noooope.

That's right! I must have blocked the idea out of my head. Lol

 

You definitely were not into it.

 

I was at JD Fab over the weekend to do some work on my truck and rebuilding my right rear e-brake that decided to turn into a grenade was on my list. I bought the full rebuild kit, gathered my tools, sat down in front of the axle and thought to myself “ self - i would rather poke myself in the eye with everyone of these 20 springs and clips than ever do this again during this life on earth “...hence where the idea came from

I think i’m going to go for it with the line lock and see what happens

 

That gave me a good sympathetic chuckle!

 

Any updates on your brake solution, @Evenflow ?

 

Not yet, my truck is still at JD Fab so I haven’t played with it yet however I realized that from a safety standpoint relying on a hydraulic line lock is a bad move ie: if you tear a brake line and lose hydro pressure you no longer have a mechanical back up...so i am leaning toward either the drive shaft option of a custom backing plate and using a rear caliper with mechanical e-brake functionality

 

The latest updates have been posted in the Turbo BS thread. As related to the PreRunner build.. Some changes and upgrades are under way currently. Swapped to external wastegate, on a Boostlab turbo. Turbosmart wastegate and BOV.

Upper intercooler supports finished, to go with the last updates here.



Cross-member repaired and some reinforcement added.



Wastegate fused into the turbine housing.