What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Ebay

 

Toytec makes some as well: This is the set I went with when I did my lift.

 

Is this something people over 3 inchs of lift need? I just put my sway bar back in and have a weird sound coming from the front end sometimes and I was wondering if it was my sway bar now I am 2.75 inch of lift.

 

I have lift spindles which move the hub down which happens to move the caliper and hard line bracket mounting point down as well... I noticed some contact between the bottom of the end links and that bracket so I added the sway bar drop bracket since it also pushes the sway bar forward as well. I think I got mine for like 25 bucks. It's worth a try I'd say.

 

What I have gathered is most people who are lifted who want to retain the sway bar for on road driving are going with a kit like this. Unless you are just going with a leveling kit to bring your front end up an inch its been suggested most places I have looked. Its also super cheep at only $35 and the one I got from toytec is real nice quality. I bought it as piece of mind when I did my lift cause I planned to keep the sway bar. I havent had any issues since and my truck doesn't roll much more than stock suspension post lift which is what I was going for.

 

Thanks guys! It is ordered and hopefully it helps some

 

Just did mine yesterday.

Looking at everyone else, my adjustment cams are maxed out with icon UCAs and coilovers. Should they be more centered?

 

Fresh coat of Rustoleum rust reformer on the driveshaft driveshaft(s) and high heat paint on the muffler/exhaust pipes.

 

Is "Rust Reformer" high temp? Might want to be careful with fumes coming off of that exhaust when it heats up!

 

You should hit the muffler with VHT Primer and a VHT Coat after you've heated it up for a half hour. Otherwise you're just going to burn off the rust reformer and it will have an extremely limited effect of only converting that last layer of rust.

 

Yes it is. It's actually their high heat stuff and not the rust reformer.

 

Self explainatory... Lolol

 

Wife got an OEM Audio + subwoofer for her new 4 runner, so I inherited her old JL Audio powered subwoofer. Seemed like a good time to upgrade my HU to a KENWOOD DMX9707S with wireless CarPlay.


I got the harness ready service from Crutchfield for $25, so it was all plug and play. However I could not fucking get the HU to fit with the oem harness, the RCA wires for the sub and the aftermarket harness to use steering wheel controls. In the end I detached the factory harness from behind the AC controls and crammed that and all the required wiring in the empty space just right of the AC controls. Now it’s almost wire free directly behind the head unit and it fit like a dream.


the subwoofer was:

But to be honest, I wanted to bolt it to the floor for cleaner bass, and wanted a platform. My solution was to drill holes in the floor and insert rivnuts. And build a simple little wood frame so the sub box could be mounted upside down, while protecting the sub itself. Now I’ve got pretty damn good bass, and a level platform behind my seat for storage. and the whole thing is bolted down to the floor.

 

I have no idea sorry

 

I sold mine after seeing wheeleveryweekend post about it on IG. Glad I still had it sitting in a box for 2 years

 

It's Tacoma related so don't taze me, bro!
We're getting caught up on our slider production and a bunch of Tacoma ones are leaving the shop!
Group buy is extended and we've even taken more money off!

 

I had the same problem with the steering wheel controls, and it turned out that the issue was that Crutchfield's cheat sheet had an error on the section for Toyotas, and that one of the switches that was indicated should be down was actually supposed to be up. I couldn't tell you which one it was offhand, but I'm sure that Google (or Crutchfield CS) will help.

 

Hmm. Yeah steering wheel controls worked fine. But the amount of wires back there made impossible to get the head unit in. It’s better now that I moved all the wires out of the stereo hole.

 

Oops. Misread that as it not working. They must have fixed that cheatsheet since 2019, in that case.

 

The LCA cam eccentric bolts & the upper control arm long bolts should be only be tightened after you have lowered the truck back on the ground with the weight back on the wheels (loaded suspension) NOT while the suspension is hanging while on jack stands(unloaded suspension). This will almost always cause creaking noises.
Not sure if you did this, but if so, loosen those bolts back up and then torque to specs while it's on the ground