OVTune 3.5L Tacoma Supercharger and Twin Turbo Systems

Not really. For DP-YP anyway.

When I was under there yesterday I used my phone to see the other side of the pipe and the parts where the flanges have the bolts are tight as fuck. I could not torque them down any further. One side had a little bit of light poking through between the space of the bolt and the space where the holes would line up, but no light passes through that actual space or past the gasket at all.

I can't even torque down the bolts further to bring that gap together. I did all I could to push the pipe up while tightening to create the best deal I could and that little spot doesn't want to close down to nothing.

Nonetheless, I do not think that spot is the issue because it's up top that distinctly sounds like a model T Ford lawnmower.

There's some sort of dark black substance where the turbo and mani meets, but I wonder if it's some sort of sealant used during install by the shop that put it in because it doesn't just brush away and is pretty caked on there. There's no visible separation that I can see anywhere in that area, all bolts are already tight, I couldn't get any bolt that I was able to get a socket on to tighten any more... frustrating.

 

It's possible, but why does only the passenger side sound like a model T ford lawnmower and not the driver side? Is it echoing because of the OEM airbox?

I don't really seem to have loss of power, although I believe the tune needs to be adjusted...

I also expected to overboost back up to 9 or 10 when the Doug Thorley y-pipe went back in. Instead I only went up by 1psi up to 7. I mean, that's good, but just unexpected. But that was following a driver side actuator arm repair. Maybe actuator arm tension isn't tight enough over there.

 

Also I'm not sure that would account for why the sound is upon high idle (most noticeable anyway) or under acceleration. Blow-off would be off-idle.

 

Did happen to notice that my passenger side turbo cold-side silicone coupler was backing off a tad and I re-secured it, didn't change anything.

 

my guess would be there is no load on high idle, like when a diesel fires up when its cold. Under acceleration is the one that baffles me, unless the turbos are producing overboost and its still blowing off.

 

That's what I was trying to theorize/ask about in my earlier post about back pressure. Basically was wondering if somehow the turbos were producing too much boost or spinning too fast or something, while reined in by the actuator arm tension...idk. Spitballing wildly here. The boost would have to go somewhere though right? And shouldn't that register as an overboost on my gauge?

It's a strange sound, you can hear the loud turbo spool combined with exhaust sound of some sort.

Like I said earlier this morning too, it really did sound like a damn turbo diesel on the way to the gym lol but it never has before and I'm on the stock airbox, not dual snorkels like @MESO was for example.

 

Dumb question... if you're having all these problems with the Doug Thorley Y-Pipe, why not just go back to the OEM?

 

Certainly fucking tempting. But what I don't know is if it's worth the trouble swapping them again. I potentially swap back to the OE pipe yet again and the weird sound up top remains?

For the record, the DT wasn't a problem before. I'd only removed it to remove it as a variable while narrowing down my overboosting issue.

 

Gotcha. Just sounds like you're beating your head against the wall to fix an issue that all started when you changed one part... I'd rip that bitch out of there, even if just to see. Sounds like you're one problem away from lighting the truck on fire haha.

 

Dude...

I don't know how many fucking times I've sat here regretting every little fucking thing. And I'm not even having actual tuning issues. They're fucking rather simple hardware issues that are incredibly frustrating.

I really may return to the OE pipe again but if I do, it's stay that way permanently. Unfortunately, that means trying yet again to find a buyer for the DT pipes, which I was unsuccessful in doing the first time I removed them recently.

 

Also, fun fact, threading those bolts into the OEM y-pipe is a PITA lol especially the one threaded bolt hole I've got that is jacked up and I had to cross-thread it last time to get it to go...smh. Lol

 

Time to do that ADM while you are at it

 

Ouch!

 

Who hurt you?

He woke up this morning and chose violence. Lol

 

Check if the downpipe to turbo bolts are over-torqued. The gasket provided is a special graphite gasket and if you torque them to hell it will break those gaskets.

There is no sealant on the turbo to manifold, just another special crush gasket. If the spot removed the turbos from the manifolds, or did something etc... well first why but second they weren't suppose to.

 

Alright, I'll have to loosen those up and I'm assuming they'll just fall free, either crumbled or not, and then I'll know if they're shot.

 

*assuming* the shop following the instructions you can remove the top bolt, loosen the bottom, and remove the gasket without damaging it. However if they torqued it all crazy it's going to be no good.

 

Alright. Thanks Mat.

Wouldn't be surprised if they did torque it down super tight. When I got a socket on those they didn't budge even the slightest when I put pressure on them

 

Hahaha! I'm sure there's a bleeding joke in there somewhere.

 

Shit! The list continues.

I'd hash tag those jokers in every post about the 'found' issues.