3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights

You can get it from some dealers a bit cheaper.
https://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oem-parts/toyota-connector-wiring-ha-8282404060

 

The chatter has resumed and we are reaching out to new connections thanks to these recent posts.

I assume raw parts need to be sub $20 for a pair to be reasonable. A $50 harness just seems ridiculous compared to someone just buying 100 H9’s and reselling them after modification.

 

So true. P

 

My mistake for not including it, I'll add that note to the review. I have the high beam at 1.41A at 13.8v.

 

While we're looking up current draw for things, anyone want to help me fill in the numbers in the unified graph for the H11's and H9's?

 

Ok, new idea, who wants to try it first? Pop out the green center plastic of the H11 connector with a small screwdriver. Store it in your spare parts bin. Snap in an H9. Gentle tug on the wires from the back to confirm they are not going to fall out. I believe they are secured with internal tabs and the center plastic doesn’t play a role in the waterproof seal.

Easy, free, simple.

Credit to puppypunter if it works.

 

I didn't even think about doing that, but the wires should stay. That green cap is for extra security. The bulb may not fit quite as tight though. Should be interesting.

 

I tested with my crappy knockoffs and the seal and fit is completely unaffected. The only purpose they seem to serve, beyond supplying a color, is to prevent the very thing we wish to do (run unmodified H9 off low beam connector). I'll try out the OEM connector fit tomorrow when it's not dark but I suspect the same as I believe the outer black housing is an exact match between the H9's and H11's and the little bridge doesn't get in the way.

I think this plan is a go. It's easier than a bulb base mod, completely reversible, near zero time, and one-and-done.

 

Tungsram Megalight Ultra +130 H11's are showing "in stock" at Powerbulbs...

 

Powerbulbs seems to have cut back on their standard coupon code listed at the top of the site, used to be regular 20% off now it seems it is 10%-full price. If you sign up for their emails though they still regularly offer 23-25% off sales via email.

 

I used the one emailed to me several months ago.. PAY25... Worked for 25% off today

 

I did the the Lasfit LED bulbs. What a huge difference! Seriously turned the night into day! They are very bright and running strong now for about 3 months. Just bought a set for my wife’s 4runner last week

 

This is awesome, any ideas where to source the new center plastic?

 

Working on that for you.

For now I’d just leave it out.

 

For us not so smart folk, can you show a photo of what you’re describing? It would be nice to run H9s with no harness or manipulation to the bulb itself

Much appreciated!

 

Not sure I have the right one here, I can never remember which is H9 and which is H11. But the process is the same. Just take a small screwdriver and pry up on the green (or yellow?) plastic piece. It won’t take much force to pop off.

 

Thank you, sir!

 

Or if you prefer the EP:

Tools:

1. Small screwdriver, ideally made in the USA
2. Beer, preferably green

Steps:

1. Identify H11 low beam connector. Hint, it is green and not yellow / beige
2. Using small screwdriver, gently wiggle until the green plastic pice pops out. Cup your hand around the back of the connector while doing this so the cap does not launch into a dark corner of the engine bay.
   
3. Locate green plastic piece and save for later
4. Install unmodified H9 bulb (trim metal tabs prior to installing if you feel you need to or refer to @crashnburn80 ’s video of how to install an H9 bulb inside an H11 housing without metal tab trim using magician hand trick skills.
5. Open beer and toast @Puppypunter.
6. If for some reason you crush 12 green beers and pop all of the beige and green plastic pieces off in a rare moment of total euphoria and then realize you don’t know which is which, refer to the color codes below:
   1. Driver High Beam + is solid white
   2. Driver Low Beam + is solid red
   3. Passenger High Beam + is solid yellow
   4. Passenger Low Beam + is solid blue
   5. All grounds are black with white stripe

Photos
NOTE: You only need to remove the green plastic in the center of your H11 low beam connectors. Various photos of the yellow/beige H9 connector are purely informational so you can see the differences and observe the orientation of how this center piece is removed. You can leave your H9 high beam connectors/bulbs alone, the stock specs Phillips H9 for high beam which is already the best possible bulb. One very nice result of doing this mod is you only need to carry one type of bulb as a spare and you can even rotate high beam bulbs into low beam spots since the high beams should see significantly lower runtime.










https://youtu.be/FXL8LahHiuI

 

Looks like that cap is something that could be 3d printed, do you know how hot that could get? I'd want to print in ABS but if PETG is okay it opens up to a lot more people.

EDIT: To clarify, I realize the cap serves relatively little purpose. I'm guessing it's only there to prevent people from putting different bulbs in. More pondering the feasibility of 3d printing electrical connectors.

 

Give me a few weeks to source some. Should have a quote soon. Not much point in printing it. Quality is a non issue. The piece doesn’t play any role other than preventing that which we desire.