The Lair

You don't need the twin stick for 2lo, just leave the ADD disengaged.

 

That’s what I mean, I didn’t wire in the add. I put the truck in 4hi and disconnected the 4wd ecu. Add Is always engaged as it sits right now.

 

Oh I gotcha, I misinterpreted when you said that. So you left the collar slid over to the 4wd position, that makes sense.

 

Yeah, I went the free and easy route. Took me about 30 seconds and cost me nothing. I was considering the FJ tube but will rock this until I have a reason to swap.

 

I hear that, the only reason I swapped over was because my diff tube exploded LOL. I think you'll find that leaving the actuator locked in you'll be good for many years unless you get stupid on the skinny pedal

 

Lolol I seent your thread, which is invaluable btw with part numbers. I’m less worried about the strength of the add and more so the actuator failing, hence the path I took. I agree that I should be fine, at least I hope so.

 

Yep, this’ll do.

 

I found the source of my leak at the t case/trans. Here’s what came out of my truck, and what I SHOULD have moved to the FJ case. Notice the O ring attached to the cover.





Here is my case as it currently sits. Notice the lack of O ring.








The lack of O ring let trans oil into the cavity between the trans and t case. I’m glad I didn’t procrastinate in fixing it because that was the majority of my oil and I would’ve fried my trans.

 

Good thing you are working with a manual transmission too

 

Luckily (unluckily?) this only applies to manuals. With the auto's, the seal is on the transmission side of things. Or maybe there's no seal at all. All I know is people bolt up the as-is FJ case into an auto with no issues.

 

Ah, I gotcha. Was more just referring to the simplicity of filling said transmission. Didn’t know it wasn’t an issue for autos.

 

Agreed, the manual is really simple to change the oil in, just like a diff. I was due for a fluid change anyways, so I guess it's a blessing in disguise.

 

Here's a better pic of what I was talking about. Very easy fix once the t case is out of the truck and on the work bench. Only 5 bolts and some RTV.

 

Sealed the floor today. My original hole was a bit large but it ended up working in my favor. I was able to remove the shifter very easily while making it.

I couldn’t find any shift boot that would work for me so I bought this smaller boot and used some 14 gauge to cover the gaps. Sealed it up with rtv and used self tapping screws to secure it to the truck. Then covered with sound deadener.


Spectre Performance 6285...

$33 Spectre Performance 6285 Universal Shift Boot

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062ZI1S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


I also wrapped the shift lever in sound deadener, as well as some gorilla tape. I’m hoping that’ll act similar to oem and keep some noise out of the cabin.

 

I got the tranny filled, skids mounted and wheel bearing changed. Betty white is finally back together.

 

Whatcha call that tool?

 

A screwdriver?

 

The caliper doo-hickey. PM me address and I'll send you some hooks that are for that!

 

Ahhh. I have the hooks but I didn’t want to unbolt that bracket from the spindle, freeing up more slack.