3rz-fe acting up (long post)

Unplug the MAF entirely. The truck should default to pre-programmed values and you'll see your idle return to normal if that's causing the issue.

Also, as for the manifold, yes that can cause issues. I had that in my 2008 Canyon and it likely caused my cat issues. A good test for the cat is to floor it and see if your truck has any trouble getting over any certain RPMs or you get a flashing check engine light.

 

Ok I’ll check into that. Thanks Glamisman.

 

If I unplug the maf while the truck is running it will stall immediately. I’ve read several threads that say you should be able to disconnect the maf without killing the engine but I’m not sure if that info is accurate.

If I attempt to restart after I’ve disconnected the maf the truck will start right back up and and idle decent. Any throttle and it will choke (obviously).

No worries about the cracked manifold. I got that swapped out for the Toyota mini header and everything seems to have sealed up tight

 

Went ahead and removed the connector since the locking tab was broken anyways. I tested individual pins and wiggled them altogether. I’m still not sure if it’s wiring or the MAF itself.

You will see in the vid that the truck doesn’t seem to respond as much to wiggling individual pins but if I start playing with the pack I can actually kill the engine.

Any input appreciated. https://youtu.be/9ch4gSv0xpI

 

I think I'd be most suspicious of the maf itself, that wiring seems pretty solid. If you pull the wires and poke at the pins in the maf with a finger, do any of them feel loose? Or, if you pull the maf out of the housing, is the sensing element loose?

 

If you can start it with the MAF unplugged and it runs normal, you'll need a new MAF. Sometimes just cleaning it isn't going to do.

 

The connection from the wires to the pins on the harness look and feel pretty solid.

Nothing feels loose on the maf. I wiggled the pins inside and gave it a shake to hear any rattles. Sensing element seems pretty solid as well.

The 2nd pin from the right inside of the maf looks bent slightly downward from the rest. I'm guessing it shouldn't be but I don't know if that would lead to the issue I am having.

FYI I did wiggle the wiring that leads back closer to the engine while it was running to see if I could reproduce the same result with idle increase or stumble and I couldn't so it definitely seems the problem is the maf or right at the connection to the maf.

The maf does appear to be the original one from Toyota. The truck is a 2000 and has at least 270k miles or more. She was a victim of odometer tampering.

 

Are any of those pins corroded? They look like different colors, but can't tell from the pic if its corrosion.

I think my next stop would be a different maf, could have a broken solder joint internally and everything you can inspect outside looks pretty good.

 

Yes, the three on the left are golden colored the other two are silver and correspond with the orientation of the pins so I assumed this is normal?

 

Thats kind of what it looked like. Sounds normal to me. Probably power pins in silver and signal in gold, but thats a guess.

 

I know it is typically considered a no no when it comes to using aftermarket sensors but has anyone had any luck with eBay or Amazon mafs for their Toyotas? I ordered a cheapy on Amazon for $26 but I could cancel and/or return it and purchase a supposed oem new Toyota unit on eBay for $90 shipped.

Thanks for the connector part number Glamisman! S935 from Standard Ignition looks to be a suitable replacement, I've ordered one on eBay.