Bed Bolt Size

The factory bolts are fine thread M12, 10.9 (equivalent to grade 5 SAE) I have a 1/2 bed spacer lift to match the cab height after my flipped cab mount bushings install.

My bed bolts were rusted and I stripped out one of the nuts welded in the frame so I said screw it and drilled and tapped all six holes out to 1/2 13 SAE and used stainless bolts, roughly grade 5 equivalent but don't have to worry about rust with them. They're stronger than the factory bolts. I used 3/16" thick stainless washers foe the "spreader".

Note the rear two bolts need to be different lengths than the front four.


1/2" ≈ 13mm original is 12mm, so you're really not losing anything substantial (≈1mm) by drilling and tapping to 1/2 13, but you are gaining a larger stronger bolt that's way easier to source.

I couldn't find a torque spec and was in a slight rush so I just used 66ft lbs, nothing moved or broke when literally jumping around off road with a capper and bed loaded down.

 

Oh heck yes! Thank you so much!

 

I don't remember the length of bolts I used (5" x4 and 6.5"x2 IIRC?) and given you're going through a board and I'm going through a half spacer it's probably going to vary but I can get you lengths if you're serious about going this route and want to ball park.

Also it's easiest to tap the bed bolt frame nuts by removing the factory bolts, then use the correct pre-drill for a 1/2 13 tap from the top inside the bed, and then muscle up a side of the bed and use a board to keep it up and carefully tap your holes on one side then let it down and do the other side. You may want to put painters tape on the bed and cab near the gap as they can make contact, a buddy to help is also nice but I didn't have one when doing this.

Put a 4x4 or something between the frame and the bed to protect your hands in the off chance something slips.

And whenever using a tap go slow be deliberate, use tap lube make sure you're straight, half turn forward quarter turn back until you can freely turn it all the way through.

 

Debating it. Another option for me is bolt a 3/16” thick plate of metal from the middle bolt to the other middle bolt.

Weld carriage bolts pointing in the opposite direction. (So bed bolt going down, welded carriage bolts pointing upwards)

Then bolt down the board to those carriage bolts that would poke through the wood.

I like that idea more because the board is bending right where the 30 lb weights are (see pic).

I also want to make a drawer that extends fully out and feel that multiple bolts may help with that.

really appreciate you taking the time to share that information, you did a fantastic job!

 

You can buy the front cab bolts and use them in the bed. They are a little longer. That’s what I did when I installed a 1” body lift. As for the torque spec its 34 ft-lbs

 

I am going to attempt this this weekend, assuming I have all the correct parts.

I decided to go with a zinc yellow chromate grade 8 bolt (5.5" long). The bolt is a 1/2"-20 and I will be using a 29/64 drill bit.

 

I didn't know the rears were shorter. Maybe thats why I have one that isn't hooking up.