What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Wow 12 minutes an no one answered? I'll do the honors....

Flux capacitor

 

A wiser man once said “No fucking way”.

Was just concerned about parasitic drain.

 

Umm , longer bolts? Get stainless or use anti seize thread compound. Or use the oem bolts to hold plates with threaded studs for the ply.

 

Fetzer valve?

 

Installed my Pelfreybilt rear bumper today. After a fresh Powdercoat, install was a breeze. Now I need to find the correct trailer hitch and new license plate lights. Flush mount Baja lights are on the way.

 

I am not sure I follow.
I am trying to avoid putting holes into the truck bed.

I am going to attempt to find a bolt that has the same thread pitch and diameter as the current bolt, but just longer; which I assume is what you were trying to recommend?

 

Yup. Alternatively the oem bolts are long enough to add bed wall reinforcement brackets so a plate with a hole fit the oem bolt to hold it down and studs going up through the ply to hold that down.

 

What many do instead is use turn buckles to hold down the top layer of the plateform instead.

 

I’ll try again tomorrow.

I have carriage bolts coming up through the plywood to mount the slide.

Just need to keep toying with the bed bolts. So far the 2 bed bolts closest to me when I open up the tailgate are about 0.5” shy from reaching the threads of the frame.

The turnbuckles is a good idea, but unfortunately my issue is that the weight of the cooler is so great, that it’s flexing the wood and causing the slide to hit the tailgate. That’s why I have those 30lb weights where they are at in the picture, to apply a downward force to get an idea of where I would need force to get the slide to work properly.

 

Got it, it’s the bolts at the front(cab end). In that case a 1/8” plate with a hole for the bed bolt and bolts/studs up through the plate to hold the ply down. I like studs rather than bolts since it makes it all top down install. Obviously longer metric bolts would be the easiest if you can find them but I just pulled one of my rear bolts and it’s an M12 by 1.0(extra fine thread) and over 90mm long so you’d probably need 110 mm plus. The torx bit size is T-55. Big ass expensive galvanized bolt. I think the plate is a better option.

 

Anyone have a good picture of the ceiling without the liner in? Access cab specificly**. I'm curious how accessable the third brake light wiring is from that side.

 

I’m a doofus, I get what you are saying now. Thank you! I think I am going to try that before I try to tap it out to fit a longer bolt.

You rock, again, thank you!

 

Scroll down the OP of this thread, AC’s are the same there. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-your-headliner-and-insulating-sound-deadening.394469/

 

My explanations seem clear to me but English was never my best subject.

 

This will have my ARB Zero fridge connected most of the summer and I have a dual battery system with an isolator so it won't effect my starter battery.

 

I am going with a MSA drop slide which is going on top of my Drifta dual cab drawer system.

 

I love mine

 

probably avoidable with goat armor and vinyl

 

Did a little day trip to flagpole. Felt good getting the truck back out finally.

 

$112 Vibrant 1141 2.5' Ultra Quiet Resonator, Silver

Vibrant 1141 resonator
$86 part
$60 labor

gets rid of the drone and cuts the volume to about half
so that it's not annoying
but also can be somewhat heard to hear what the engine is doing and know when to shift, more control with clutch starting in 1st, hearing whether it's even on or not, etc.