Manual locking hubs?

To be clear, the front drive portion of the transfer case.

 

Free wheeling stops Tcase noise while in 2HI

 

Except that the front driveshaft is still spinning (with live axle/hubs), which is spinning all the internals of the transfer case.

 

The "front drive portion" along with the differential carrier, ring/pinion gears and the front drive shaft do not spin with ADD in 2wd. Only the CV's, differential side/spider gears and the ADD intermediate shafts.

 

Yeah, right.
You must have an unusual drivetrain.
Or ADD is always ON.

 

@rcjeff
I sure hope this is your idea of an April fool's joke.

 

Yeah, yeah. My bad, forgot about the ADD system. Must just be the lack of front axle noise that's made it quieter.

 

Trying to figure out a few things before i get started on this project, i got some manual hub assemblies with steering knuckle and cv axles, but the cv axles r crusty and rusty. My plan is to press out the hubs from the manual hub spindles and press them into my spindles on my 04. I bought some koyo bearings off ebay and it said they were compatible with 95.5-04 tacoma but now after more reading im seeing that manual hub bearings are different, is this true? Also i need to get cv axles, can i just get new cv axles for a 96 tacoma that has manual hubs and they will fit my tcase? And is doing the add hose clamp thing absolutly necissary, because the tcase would then always be in 4wd, so wouldnt it defeat the purpose of switching to manual hubs because of driveline vibrations?

 

Your cv axles, whether manual hub or add, will absolutely fit your front differential...they do not go into your transfer case.

The wheel bearings are the same.

The clamp is to keep the front diff actuator in the engaged position, and make it "fixed" just the way it is fixed on the tube extending from the front differential on a manual hub setup.

 

Thank you! So do most people remove the 4wd bulb in the dash so its not always on then seems that would get kind of annoying seeing the light always on

 

Nope, the light in the dash is driven by a switch on the tcase, so it'll only be on when 4x4 is engaged.

 

Reliability. Plus when locked it essentially is shift on the fly anway. No sense in turning axles unnecessarily

 

Can you shift while in motion? I know my j-shift will bark if I’m moving at all

 

You can still shift from 2HI to 4HI in motion, though I've found it's smoother if I let off the gas and push in the clutch. 4LO, of course, still requires a full stop.

 

I do... all the time during winter.

 

4 lo goes easier for me if I'm coasting slowly with the clutch in. But on autos, I think you have to stop.

 

All autos have to stop, put the transmission into N, shift from 4H to 4L, then go to D.

 

don't buy a kit just but a pair of cv axles from rockauto for a 98 tacoma w/manual hubs. get the aisin hubs from lowrange offroad, and the stud bolt/cone washers. then you can drop a spartan lunchbox locker in the front diff. of course you'll have to buy wheel new bearings and press out the old ones from your hubs to press in the new ones. i'd have to look and see what I spent but I think it was around 1000 for all I did.

 

Quick question.
I still havn't found a front diff in 4:56.
So to be clear....If I find an add diff in 4:56, I can use the green (add) cv shafts or the blue (manual) shafts and hose clamp mod the diff?

If I find a manual front diff in 4:56, I have to use the blue manual CV shafts only?

Or a front add diff with a non add tube, I use the blue manual cv shafts only?

 

Im having troubles understanding why we need to hose clamp the diff into 4wd with manual hubs, is it strictly so we dont grenade gears accidentally pressing 4wd while moving?