The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

It must vary, mine was 100% complete and ready.

 

Yeah, I was there right after the big storm in Feb. They had to shut down for a day or two so they were running behind.

Super sketchy driving in to town even, there were trees that had fallen over on I-5 that had been chopped off right at the edge of the traffic lane. Could barely see them in the dark, and not well enough to tell if they were into the lane or not... Then once in town, tons of snow everywhere.

 

Oh ya I remember that storm. Trees down everywhere, it was nasty in town. The mountain got some great snow though!

 

Same panels I have. How do you plan to attach the cables to the camper's slots and route them inside? I'm not thrilled with Renogy's cable leads - the differing lengths and going off opposite ends. Not very convenient unless you connect in series. Had to order a 1.5 ft extension to connect them parallel. I'll be making yet another home depot trip in the morning to look at cable mount or clamp options to hold the MC4 adaptors. I may drill out the hole on the MCR adaptors so I can mount them direct using T-nut bolt.


I've been flip flopping on configuration decision. Originally I was going to mount using the configuration in your top pic as that exposes less profile per panel to the wind. But after seeing what a mess the cable leads will be I don't want that exposed to the wind either.

Researching mounting options I read that overheating can reduce lifespan of flexible panels so you want to have both insulation and airflow below the panels. Airflow also helps eliminate moisture. I'm planning to use this guy's mounting method which addresses both issues, and also makes removal easier if needed. I've got it built already for the upper configuration. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJIEXhnF8MU&ab_channel=RVwithTitoDIY

It looked like I could easily configure panels in either direction using his method but the middle eyelets on the two panels don't line up. If using the bottom config I could still attach the ends of each panel to T-slot but not the middle eyelets to a central T-slot. Probably not a big deal as I can just run extra lattice end cap along the long edges. That lattice end cap and the T-slot will be stuck down with VHB tape. I think I'm leaning toward the bottom configuration now, to make wind exposure to cables less of an issue.

 

I plan to just use industrial strength velcro that way I can just remove them when they're not in use so they don't deteriorate. I am going to use them mainly to charge my Goal Zero Yeti 1000. I bought "Y" cables from Amazon and they reach enough to where I can connect them parallel when they are side by side like the bottom configuration.

Here is the “Y” connector

BougeRV Solar Connectors Y Branch Parallel Adapter Cable Wire Plug Tool Kit for Solar Panel

$9 BougeRV Solar Connectors Y Branch Parallel Adapter Cable Wire Plug Tool Kit for Solar Panel

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753X68PS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6QW6R27AZ3635X11ZB25?_encoding=UTF8

 

It looks like he converted a flexible panel to a non flexible panel with a rigid frame. At that point, why not just start with a rigid panel, and mount that to a track?

 

Yeah I'm not sure why the Youtube guy went with flex panels. Moar content? In prior iterations he had the panels taped down with Eternabond tape, which seemed like a total PITA to deal with. He has the room to go with rigid panels.

I can't use rigid panels myself, too thick for the miniscule clearance I have with garage door.

 

I’m switching to flexible mainly to keep the height down. Have rigid now.

I plan to install with heavy Velcro as well. folks I know installed that way have had no issues, wind, rain etc

 

This is the one I used. We used it all weekend while camped by a stream. It was AWESOME! Just gotta figure out a side screen solution.

$42 Upgraded 60 x 80" Magnetic Screen Door for French Door, Fiberglass Mesh Curtain Durable, Keep Bug Out, Kids/Pets Entry Friendly Fit Door Opening Up to 58 x79" Max

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8VBMG7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

I’m not even gonna try and find the post in here but is your rear camera installed up top on the camper rails or was that someone else?
If so what camera are you using?

 

Back home after installation and camping down the west coast. Thought I'd post my first impressions.

THE GOOD

• First and foremost, the SP staff were just great. They welcomed me and allowed me to film the whole installation process for my potential overloading vlog (we'll see) and they took plenty of time to talk me through all the details. Really nice experience.
• Camper is very well made, many more design features and add-ons that indicate SP's deep-dive design. This isn't just a GFC or wedge camper clone, it's definitely it's own unique design. It does have the common features of the wedge tent and the modular floor, but there are plenty of other features such as the wiring channels, prolific lash points, T-nut channels, and especially the tent design (more on that below) that make the SP stand on its own.
• The tent is just great. As with the body, not just another wedge tent, a very unique SP design. The material is great, the upper venting systems are a brilliant innovation, and construction is very solid. I do have a couple of complaints below, but the tent still gets an A+.
• The full length doors provide so much access I can't imagine living with the smaller "windoors" on other wedge campers.
• Last but not least, the ExPed mattress is perfect. I was concerned that it would be too thin and bottom out, as I'm pretty heavy. but apparently their vertical core foam design prevents that. I have a similar Sea-to-Summit 4 inch mattress, and the ExPed is better.

THE NOT SO GOOD

• My biggest complaint is with the doors. I understand what they were after, but I think there were some design decisions that created problems that led to other design decisions that created other problems, etc. I'll explain.
• First of all, the latches. I had to drive back to SP the next day to get the latches adjusted, and they still didn't work very well. SP's design decision was to have a door that could be opened with one hand. Great design decision. So, coming from an airplane design background, they added the single large opening handle and routed some cable to each side latch. Problem is, the handle has a very hard pull (for me anyway) so I have to press one hand against the door while pulling the handle with the other. So much for one-handed operation. Also, one side often unlatches before the other, tweaking the door and making the still-latched latch stick. So I have to press one hand against the door, use the other hand to pull the handle all the way to make sure both latches unlatch, and then let the door open. As I said, so much for one-handed operation. Good idea. Doesn't work well.
• Second door complaint: the "gunnel." They told me they had originally tried piano hinges like the GFC, but they leaked and caused other issues, so they designed their own hinges. Nice solution. But this solution left a gap at the top that let rain in. So they created another solution, the "gunnel" that sticks out from the body and acts as a kind of rain gutter under the door hinges. Once again, a nice solution, and I may be the only one who has a problem like this, but I continually whacked my head on this protruding gunnel. I think it's because my eye sees the wall of the body and unconsciously assumes that's where the edge of the metal is. My brain doesn't expect a 2 inch blade of metal to be sticking straight out, and the edge is at a 90 degree angle to the body, so it kind of disappears into the background if that makes sense. I had to learn the hard way to stick my head inside very carefully, and I'm planning on getting something like a vinyl car door edge guard to soften the edge in case I forget. Again.
• Third door complaint: the interior design. I suspect that, coming from airline design experience, the basic idea about a door is "smooth on the outside and utilitarian on the inside." Once again, a useful design decision, but the result is a latch mechanism that hangs down several inches, and lash points that also hang down and are pretty sharp-edged. I hit my head really hard on the latches twice at night, and bumped it more than a few times on the lash points. Could be that I'm simply losing my spacial awareness as I get older, but frankly I would be completely happy with a two-latch-handle door and a lower interior door profile.
• Other issues are minor:
• I was in some heavy rain, and I had a little leakage in the tent. Nothing serious. but not completely dry. I believe it was from the tent corners, where it looks like a difficult 90 degree turn for the Keder rail and the folded and sewn tent material. I can live with it, but it's there. Considering how heavy the rain was, the leakage was very minor. Wet edges on the bottom of the mattress. No pools or puddles, and no real evidence of leakage traveling down below into my gear.
• As others have mentioned, the back tent door does not have a bottom zipper. Peter explained that to have a bottom zipper would require threading the zipper as you do on a jacket, which they felt would be problematic. So they have a tie instead, which does hold the flap snug but which also allows more air in than a zipper would. I was in a heavy wind on a cold night and I could really feel the cold air coming in. I could have put a rolled towel or something in there and stemmed the flow, and I could add a velcro closure of my own, so it's not a big deal. Just another design decision that had consequences.

I hope no one takes this review as too negative. I'm really very happy with it overall, and these are actually minor complaints compared to the greatness of the overall product. I don't regret my purchase at all, and I wouldn't trade it for a wobbly GFC or an overpriced AT Summit. It's exactly what I wanted with a few little quirks.

 

So after months of reviewing and researching and reading and watching and calling (today actually to see about the transfer.. ).. still my biggest worry are these small leaks and gaps for dust, etc. The leaks are kind of an issue for me, potentially... My RTT doesnt leak. Condensation.. Yes, leaks.. No. Dust.. Our gear is always prone to dust.. So we keep it locked up and put away in the cab or storage containers in the bed. I've spent years perfecting the loadout and Tetris game.. lol Our tent is obviously zipped up so its never exposed to the dust... So our "camp" is essentially dust free even though the truck and bed and gear itself is covered in dust, mud, etc... if that makes sense. I'm just curious as to how much dust and leaks compared to our RTT/Bed setup it could really be, and how much of our say bedding and bags, or whatever else we pack in our newly cap-like, "sealed" bed get covered in whatever. We are sold regardless though. The SP is exactly what we've been wanting while all the other wedge campers have been coming out. We're planning on snagging this spot this week actually. I just want a realistic idea of what we're getting into. I dont mind making little tweaks and mods like attaching some velcro here or there to close windows, or running some Weatherstrip in problematic dust or water areas. But if its an actual issue.. How and When do they plan on addressing it you think? From my call today.. we could be around August pending Extrusion material.. which our impatient asses would love.. just in time for our Annual Anniversary Adventure Trip. We usually take a week plus off and adventure somewhere. This would be that trip.. up to Oregon and then back down to Az with the SP!

I guess the TL;DR version is.. We're hoping to snag a spot that would be a soon-ish build.. but should we wait for kinks to be worked out?

 

I quickly read this so maybe missed something but IMO, I don’t foresee “the little kinks” being worked out within a timeline that would please you. I don’t think anyone can answer that except the guys there. Also, our customer feedback needs to reach them , so letting them know if the kinks through email is prob a good idea.For example, my latches have been working great and don’t need adjustment but no zipper on the rear door bugs me. It’s just not a deal breaker lol. Personally I would not wait because I feel like I’d get that almost close to perfect camper in late 2022. That’s just my guess. The minor issues are not big enough to turn me off. I think ranger rick makes a good point. We critique the little issues but overall the camper is amazing and it will just take field time for users to come back and let them know improvements. I would not wait personally. My job is mechanical design and I approve the camper the way it is right now. I would never return it and take the option of waiting 1+ year nooooo way haha.

Plus, all the kinks have a workaround. @nudavinci64 showed me his tailgate super well sealed with some gasket he used.
Doors can be adjusted etc.

I could be wrong but there is a missing piece on my tent corners where the tent fabric is. Maybe that’s what ranger Rick is saying a leak comes from. I was told I’d get the part shipped when they get it.

 

This is 100% where I'm at too.. I believe we would be so ecstatic over all the other Upgrades that those little inconveniences would be just that... until we fix em ourselves that is.

I guess I just really want to do my due diligence ya know.

 

Its a tough call for sure. Totally agree given it is quite a large purchase.
I'll wait and see what you decide lol

 

I followed up a couple weeks ago about the corner pieces, and got this response: " We put those nuts at the corners of your tent frame as a provision for installing the corner plates you are describing. We’ve been on the fence as to weather or not we actually need those parts and are shopping out a few suppliers as they will be a very high volume parts for us. That is a long way of saying I’m not sure when we will have those parts ready to ship, and we may decide they are unnecessary altogether. We’ll definitely keep you in the loop either way."

 

You know, velcro for that rear window flap is not a bad idea.

 

eazy peazy! just adhesive backed velcro and done. lol

 

I'm not 100% sure what you guys are talking about fixing (rear window flap) but I can make a pretty good guess. I have tried and failed with a few adhesive backed velcro's on tent/RTT material. If you know of something that will stick and stay please link it or share. I'm very curious. Nothing I've ever tried stayed stuck especially after a few temperature cycles that these things will see. It's the heat that breaks down the adhesive of course and these things will see a lot of it when closed.

 

Some of the dust issues you will have is it any camper. The tailgate and cubbies are big trouble spots. Grab a tailgate seal. I already had one around my tailgate bottom and sides.

I had some left over and eventually bought another which I put on Top of the tailgate. The crudely used extra to plug the corner until I find a thicker one piece.

I’ll take some better photos tomorrow if interested.



top of tailgate



corners