2021 4Runner Pro Wheels Ready For Order

Very nice - how much higher would you estimate your front end to be, over stock height?

 

Think im near max w.o rubbing the CV boots, so 26' total?

should be about 1.5' over stock IIRC

 

Btw, I ordered my wheels from metro Toyota and used the coupon code “FREESHIP” with caps it was 874. 7 days to delivery from Ohio to NY. The Toyota Wheels are made in Mexico which I prefer a lot more than China aftermarket

 

did you have problems with the rear like how everyone is experiencing? How it’s not sitting flush against the drum?

 

Circling back around on this thread since my earlier post. I've had my 2021 4Runner Pro rims on my 2019 Tacoma for 4 months. I had the tire shop do the mounting for me, they didn't mention any issues with fitment and just torqued them down. Since that point I've had a subtle vibration from the rear when braking, seemed like the brake pads would engage more on one part of the drum and less on another (pulsing matching tire speed as I slowed). I didn't put 2 and 2 together until I came back and read this thread again. Sure enough, I was getting interference between the rear axle hub and the inner wheel rim and torquing the wheel down without it being a flat surface was leading to the rear brake drum being pulled slightly out of round, causing the brake pulsing.

When I took the rear wheels off, they were STUCK on there very solidly. I had to kick the tire as hard as I could to get them to dislodge. I measured the amount of interference and it's very small, just the outer rim corner of the hub is hitting the angled chamfer on the inside of the wheel. It didn't really need to be any shallower, just have a 45 degree bevel on it. I followed the tip of a prior poster to grind that edge off the hub to make some clearance.

It was actually a very easy project to do. I jacked up the rear end of the truck at the differential and put a couple jack stands under both sides to get the full rear axle off the ground, putting some tire chocks under the front wheels. When the whole rear axle is in the air (with the parking brake off) the rear tires will spin freely, but locked to each other through the differential. Spinning the passenger tire by hand will cause the drivers side tire to spin the opposing direction. I used an angle grinder to take the edge off the hub, sitting in a chair and holding the grinder in a stationary position while my wife slowly spun the other tire by hand. Just have to go slow and be careful not to nick the studs with the grinder. Took about 5 minutes per side of grinding, and comes out looking perfectly machined. The whole project takes about 45 minutes and was way easier than I expected it to be.

After taking that edge off the hub the wheel fits great. I checked by torquing them down then removing again, they come off freely with no effort. It also eliminated that brake pulsing that I was experiencing. I would recommend that anyone considering these rims for their Tacoma be prepared to do the modification to the hub. Probably the easiest way to check for interference is to see if the wheels get stuck when you torque them down and then try to take them off.

Hope this is helpful!

 

Wow I notice I do have pulsating noises when slowing down after braking or while braking at really slow speeds with them on but I don’t feel it I assume it was the front but maybe it could be the back? But I’ll go check later l.. what do you torque the lugs to? 85 ft-lb?

 

Yeah, mine was definitely the back. Not sure what I torqued the wheels to, they were pretty tight. Probably 85 ft/lb at least.

 

The '21 wheels are just different enough looking than the '17-'20 Sema wheels that I think I'm sold getting them for my inbound Off Road in Barcelona Red!

Forgive my ignorance, but grinding down 1mm of the rear hubs so they fit properly and don't cause vibration, is that something a standard tire shop like Discount Tire could/would do? I would be ordering the Michelin LTX A/T2s for these from Discount Tire as they seem to have the best prices/installs.

 

A lot of shops freaked out a little when I requested this service, but I finally found 1 they charged me $100 to mount/balance all 4. He called me and asked "I think its easier to grind the 4 wheels instead. Does that work for you?". He said it didn't take a lot of time.

 

They look very good with 255/80r17s on them.

 

I wouldn’t want to grind the wheels. Unless it’s done on a lathe that’s a sure fire way to end up with an uneven seating surface

 

No problems here. It's just a very tiny amount.

 

You aren't grinding it down so the rims can seat on it, you are grinding it down so they can seat on the drum, as they don't clear the hub completely.

 

Dumb question: is the wheel or the hub been ground down 1mm?

 

Center lip of the hub need to have a slight camfer on it.

Think if it like this... Take a bowl, flip it upside down. The part if the bowl that would normally touch the table has a lip around it. You are taking a little off the top of that/camfering it slightly

 

Thank you....makes perfect sense! I wish that this didn't have to be done to these from the PITA aspect, but as long as a shop where I have the tires mounted doesn't have a problem doing it correctly, I'm in.

 

I just read it as if they were grinding the mating face of the wheel the way he worded it. Grinding the hub is acceptable. I’d never want to grind the mating surface of the wheel

 

Yeah I bought copycat rims + Wildpeaks for under 1400.

The place that made them said they fit fine, however it's an exact copy soo..... It still will rest in the lip, and not the drum.

I need to grind mine as well.

 

Yeah, I don't know how you could effectively grind the inside of the wheel rims. You'd have a heck of a time getting it concentric and and you'd have to do it to all 4 wheels instead of just to 2 hubs. Maybe if you had a giant milling machine like pictured earlier, but even that would be more work than the hubs.

 

I had to do this when I had an S10 back in the day and wanted to run the 2nd gen S10 wheels. What I did was use an engine honer to bore out the center of the wheels and it worked great and keep the bore even.