Clutch Masters hydro bearing failure!

No it did not. My thought on that was the spacer they made was the right size and did not require shimming. But, like it said, my gap was in spec when installed.

 

No. It does not come with shims. The install instructions including with the kit make no mention of it to my knowledge.

I don't understand why anyone could care about distance on a kit that
A: is supposed to slap right in
B: gets adjusted, to my knowledge, at the clutch pedal. Underneath the clutch pedal is a threaded rod shaft that operates it, with nut(s) to change your pedal engagement.
If I remember correctly, the install instructions say to set the pedal around the middle, which I did. And then to observe the pedal to see if it changes around 1,000 miles, to re-adjust it again.

Are you saying I need to get under the truck with the engine running, remove the inspection port, watch for distances (and maybe measure them with engine off) with a helper buddy inside to spin the wheels while it's up in the air? AKA shifting (wheels off ground)
to see how it behaves
I wanna say I did that when new and that it looked good due to not making contact/pre-load but I'm not sure. I guess I should re-check again and take another look.
I am hoping and assuming there is no pre load
but honestly I haven't checked
I just installed it. Drove off. Did the clutch break in period. And enjoyed the feel. Has been working since. (knock on wood)

if spacers are required (again, I saw no mention of it) - I imagine trans removal is required to install them.
At this point looking back on it, for many reasons, RA60F is one of the easiest trans I've ever had to drop. I'd have no issue removing it again today.
It's the idea of spending more money on parts that sucks.

It doesn't help that Toyota implemented a retarded stock design to begin with.
It doesn't help that they've done nothing to change it in 16 years.

these are the install instructions
http://www.clutchmasters.com/toyota...ic-slave-cylinder-installation-instructrions/

it says "We suggest adjusting the clutch rod and pedal to engage mid stroke of the clutch pedal. This will give you the best feel and operation of your clutch."
I hope you did that

 

i asked about this when i first installed mine and supposedly the spacer was machined at the right height to maintain the gap within spec... or at least that was the BS that i was fed..

edit: added the reference on the BS

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-manual-transmission-fix.624299/page-12#post-21816017

 

Yeah, that is what I was trying to say about the spacer. Sorry if I was not clear.
I like that you added the link.

 

Guilty.

 

I'm trying to wrap my head around a ~$500 part, that requires a full day to R&R, is critical to vehicle operation and only comes with a 90 day warranty! On the surface this looks like a great piece of kit, but if the manufacturer doesn't have the confidence in it to warranty it more than 90 days.... RED FLAG!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

This has me wanting to look for other options. My Clutchmasters bearing has been noisy for a good while after install. All was in spec when installed.

 

I feel we need to get CM to acknowledge there is an issue here. I bought the CM hydro kit but never installed it due to the poor reviews on here. Amazingly on their site the CM hydro kit has almost all 5 star reviews. Maybe some of the folks that are having issues should give them a review.

http://www.clutchmasters.com/n16078-h-toyota-tacoma-and-fj-cruiser-6-speed-ra60-ra61/

 

Let’s see if the cowards allow it to post up.

 

Awesome!

 

You know they won't. Need to put it on google

 

Everyone here should follow that link and post their experience. Like ASAP. Maybe it’ll get their attention.

 

Where’s that guy from the FJ forums that came here and sold us on this then just dipped ? Seemed like he was well acquainted with those cm jokers

 

I'm literally having this installed as we speak

I'm scared

 

I hope yours works out better than mine did.

 

Yeah I would put a stop to that if it were me. Read Gearcrunchers post on page one about why this causes failure, it sounds inevitable

 

I called CM guy I spoke with said they don't have time to get on forums. But are willing to take your call and help as much as possible. Also told me that we could return are NIB kits but will pay a re stocking fee. So I recommend blowing up the phones and drop them some reviews because they act like there's no issue.

9098776800

 

Without getting too far into the argument about whether or not release bearings should be spinning all the time or not, and at what preload they should be set at, there are a few basics I think we can all agree on. First that, in general, bearings are designed to spin while under load. Bearings have a stated dynamic load capacity and formulas are used to calculate the equivalent load as a function of the applied load and bearing speed, among other things, which can then be used to calculate expected bearing life. You can have a bearing last for a really long time while constantly spinning under significant loads, wheel bearings for instance, or you can design using a smaller/lighter bearing if you expect lower loads and/or lower speeds and/or less use.

All that said, I have significant concerns with the damage seen here and it likely explains most and/or all of the failures that have been seen on this unit and has nothing to do with whether the bearing is adjusted correctly or not. What is being seen with the CM units is not bearing failure, I'm sure the bearing is completely fine.

The bearing sits on the end of the hub, and the hub has a dual function of also acting as the release piston for the hydraulic system. The hub should not be spinning. The bearing should be spinning on a radially stationary hub. The design has no provision whatsoever to keep the hub from spinning aside from the friction of the oil seal against the hub surface as far as I can tell. The friction of the bearing is higher than the friction of the oil seal to hub, and so the hub is spinning against the seal.

The seal is not designed for anything to be spinning against it, it is designed for slow speed axial movement only. Either a lower friction bearing needs to be used or there needs to be a pin, slot, or some other mechanism in place to keep the hub from spinning in the seal.

Even if you had it adjusted perfectly and it was never touching the pressure plate unless absolutely necessary for clutch actuation, every time you use it, you're damaging the seal.

Jeff

PS: Because I can't help myself, many release bearings are designed to last 100k miles or more while constantly spinning. It's not a big ask for sealed bearings from the last 40+ years to handle loads like that.