The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

265/70/17 is one size larger than stock tires size. Not a lot, 1” greater in diameter, still we thrive on details on this forum.

 

An man who is not threatened by the big tire crowd deserves a little respect here. Kudos.

 

Those are things of beauty

 

Glad to hear about your setup being similar, and it working well for you! Bigger brakes went in recently. StopTech 340mm from SOS. Definitely a nice upgrade. I will do some research into the rest... thanks for the tip! I did the OME sport suspension, SPC upper control arms, and the Dakar HD leaf spring in the back. That was a very noticeable improvement in handling.

 

Yes, correct. I realized as I was typing my post that with the stock 16" rim, going to a 17" with the same width/ratio would produce a slightly larger tire diameter... so I typed "stock-ish wheel/tire setup" somewhere in my post to compensate.
So I am in the bigger tire club! Woohoo... now someone tell my asshole buddies to stop pickin on me and my baby tires?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=265-70r16-265-70r17

 

You left the axle in the hub and just pulled it out of the diff? How'd you do that?

 

I'm thinking you meant SPC upper control arms?

 

Availability issues? I went and dropped my truck off for the 5.29 install. I had a rental car for the entire week before they told me both Nitro and Yukon are having issues with getting these. No one would commit to part availability. Does anyone have the actual Yukon Part# for the TRD Off Road with 8.75 in diff and an E-locker? I'll source the parts myself.

 

I placed my order with ECGS 4/14/21 my salesman said they are having a hard time getting Yukons in stock. He said 2-3 weeks maybe. They arrived yesterday 5/13/21. Here is a picture of the number on the gear. Not sure if that helps. Sorry its upside down. Note:mine is a Trd Pro but Paul at ECGS said it's the same as OffRoad.

 

Yes, if the lower ball joint is disconnected, there is enough room to leave the axle bolted to the hub and just swing it out of the way and tie it up.

 

Interesting. The weight of the axle still being connected to the hub didn't make it difficult to pop out the axle? When installing, did you just insert the splines and push on the brake rotor?

 

Wasn’t too bad honestly, I flattened a chisel and hit on it and it popped right out. I did use a strap to take the weight off, you can use a helper as well to pull up on the assembly as you hit on the cv. And when you get it back in just make sure it’s lined up and hit it back in.

 

I had my driver side out not too long ago doing the ecgs bushing. I'll probably just pull the axle when I do it tomorrow even though your way of doing it is interesting. We'll see, maybe I'll try your way but I'm solo tomorrow so no extra hands.

 

On the 2017 3rd gen. It has the ADD system on the Front diff. From what I can see, when the truck is in 2wd, besides the front driveline being turned off, the Passenger side axle is also disconnected from the Front diff but the driver side is still connected. Is the connection of only the drivers side axle while in 2wd turning the gears enough for proper break in of new gears? Just installed my new Front Clamshell and Rear Differential and am beginning my break in. Want to make sure both front and rear get the full 500 mile break in. Being tired after a long day I decided to drive home in 4wd for the initial 15-20 minute break in but when I got home I starting researching the Front End and I should be able to do it all in 2wd. Anyone have any input? I’d call ECGS but they’re closed till Monday and I want to get this break in over with soon. Thanks. P.S. For any one that has done this job on a garage floor without a hoist I raise a Beer to you!

 

No being in 2wd is not going to do you anything for the front gears. The spider gears in your diff are going to be the only thing spinning otherwise your driveshaft would also be spinning since it’s connected to the pinion. You will need to engage 4wd to break in the gears properly. This is why some people choose to get to gears rem polished so that the break in period is slightly less time consuming. And even if the front did spin (which it doesn’t) you would only be on the coast side, it wouldn’t do much of anything on the drive side because there is no load on the front gears.

 

Thanks. Yesterday was a long day installing the units and my head was fried and over thinking it. What are your thoughts on running 4 Hi on dry pavement? In the winter when there are surprise patches of snow and ice on the roads I always run in 4 Hi for long stretches.

 

There is no problem running 4hi on dry pavement in a straight line and even with some slight turns. I would however try and keep it straight during the break in. I’ve broken in many sets like this. If you need to make a turn like in a parking lot just disengage it before the turn. Its going to take a while to break them in if you don’t do it while commuting unless you plan a long trip in the dirt. I have 100’s of miles of trails locally so it was pretty fast for me to get mine broken in.

 

just got my truck back from regear today. and all i can say is money well spent.. running 5.29 on 33's i got my 6th gear back...with my ov tune and now gears, im very happy with drivability. only down side is i have a slight little howling. hopefully after the 500miles and 1k miles fluid change and run thicker gear oil, im hoping it goes away...revolution gears

 

So 4.88's would do best with 33" tires?? Dumb question but I'm learning...

 

Best, no. There really is no best, it's only an opinion. Both 4.88 and 5.29 will do you good with 33" tires. 4.88 you'll be able to have higher top speed which really doesn't mean shit. 5.29 you'll have more power.