Looking for OBD2 port assistance.

In March @lapoltba attempted to flash my ECU to a vF tune. We ran into an issue connecting to the computer, I'm going to post what he said in another post here, since I am less well versed in the technical aspects of vF tuning.

I will also note, that back in January I went for a state inspection, and the receptionist at the dealer told me that the technician had some issues getting Techstream to connect to the truck, but by the time I made it out to my truck he had gone to lunch.

I didn't think anything of it, because my code reader still works and still works to this day.

Last year my wife used her foot to pull the OBDII code reader out of the port since her CRV has the parking brake in that same location. I think the port was damaged then, but again, the code reader still continues to work.

I want to try and diagnose the port. I am looking for a wiring diagram of each pin in that port. Clearly some pins are still good since the reader still works. Whatever pin Techstream uses to communicate to the ECU might be damaged. I want to check continuity between the port and where it connects to the ECU. Can anyone help me know which wires I should be checking?

 

Might as well check them all.

 

If you think the problem is with one of the conductors at the connector, just start there. Don't over-think it. If you can get the connector body out of the mount, just check all of the circuits

 

I had a tire store guy break off one of the clips that holds the OBD II port in the factory bracket calibrating my TPMS's to the ECU. I ordered a OBD II Y-cord taped the original to single end, installed one of the y-cable in the factory bracket, and ran the other y-cable below the steering wheel for my OBD II link. Hope this help you!

OBD2 OBDII Y Adapter Diagnostic Connector Cable Fits for All Cars

Amazon.com: Tonsiki OBD2 OBDII Y Adapter Diagnostic Connector Cable Fits for All Cars: Automotive

 

Also the OBD connector part number is
90980–11665 or 90980–11978
and can easily be swapped out if needed. De-pinning an OBD connector is one of the easiest connectors to do.

There is a section on the top and bottom of the connector that need to be pried up to release the hold of the pins. In the attached image below, you will see that the tabs are up as I have not installed the pins in mine yet. Once they are up, just get a tiny flathead screwdriver to push the pin retention down near the center of the connector and the pin will remove with ease. Do that for the remaining pins.



To install a new connector, just work backwards. Insert all the pins until they click in place, fold the top and bottom flaps to lock the pins. Easy day.

 

The problem is more that some of the pins in the connector are mangled. They would need to be cut off and re-crimped. The housing seemed OK, but cheap enough to just replace.

 

I assumed that was the case but it was difficult to tell what was broken. Could always attempt to bend the female pins back into the correct shape, but that's sketchy.

I would buy the OEM replacements as they come with a bit of wire and already crimped, so no worries with a cramped space. Costs more but worth it. Local dealership charged $18 per wire when I bought them.

For anyone wondering what the part number is:
82998-05010

 

This definitely seems easy enough, but as @lapoltba said, one of the pins has got to be damaged.

I would probably need this part for the faulty connection. Based on the pictures I can see of it, it's just the pin connection on one end and you butt splice the wire into its original source. Is that right? My bigger question is still however, how can I diagnose which pin is faulty? Is there only one wire that communicates with the ECU?

 

Yes, or solder.
The pins should be a pretty tight fit. You could de-pin one at a time and check it to your OBD scanner. If the damage isn't visible then check to see if it's loose, you will be able to wiggle it around the pin more than others.

Make sure the truck is off and be mindful of the battery connection. May want to disconnect the battery when you check that pin.

 

Yeah that sounds like a good plan I'll probably end up doing that at some point, even if @lapoltba ends up tuning my truck via the ECU before I get a chance to fix the port.

I'm still trying to find out which pin I'd have to investigate though. Without a Techstream cable and software I can't think of a way to diagnose each pin individually, since my code reader still does work so some of them are functional. I'm not electrically smart enough to read the schematic you first posted yesterday.

 

looks like 6 or 14 but I haven't actual done this
http://www.automotivetroubleshootingsecrets.com/2014_auto_wiring_dlc.html

 

Good place to start, thank you!

 

The obd has 9 pins and the Tactrix uses all I believe. Your reader uses 8 pins. The easiest to start would be checking the one pin your reader doesn't use.