Long Travel BS Thread

What is tlg length? And pm me this afternoon and I can measure my spare if you haven’t gotten an answer yet

 

I'll post up a length when I get home this evening. I measured the extended axle in relation to my stock spare but didn't come out with a clear answer. I want to say 29" but don't quote me. haha.

 

29.75" DK brand new +3.5. Still waiting on triples and finding the time to install on my 03' V8.

 

I have some CVJ +2s sitting here if you want me to measure as well.

 

I'll let you know. Spoke to CVJ this morning and will report back this evening on what I find. Thanks for the support!

 

Here is what I found. Talked to CVJ today and the rep said to measure the axles compressed. He recommended to hold the axle vertically and compress down so you can measure from table to tip of the axle.

Stock is 25.5” according them them. I measured 25.75” but close enough.

The axles I have are 27.625” give or take so they appear to be 2” to me. Huge relief though because that’s what I need.

 

Do you still need a second measurement? I’m off tomorrow and can do that procedure with my spare if you care for another data point

 

Good to know.

 

I ended up picking up @Evenflow ’s old kit, so I got 2+ axles if you need another measurement.

 

Debating on doing a long travel setup and would love to hear your guy's opinion. I mainly rock crawl given the area I live in and was wondering if the droop is worth the scheckles or should I just go with kings 2.5 extended travel coilovers and just bolt that on.

 

If it’s worth it or not is subjective. For what it’s worth, I have extended kings in the front and will be putting on a +2.25 kit once my coilovers arrive next month. All I do is crawl.

 

If you're building a serious crawler Solid Axle is probably the way to go, and similar price to LT. But LT is less fab work, so easier.

 

There are people that say if you run tight trails then a +3.5 will be a hindrance. There are others that get used to it and like the challenge.
I don't have any rocks here in Florida obviously, but when I finally get mine installed, I won't be able to run some of the tight forest trails I used to get my pinstripes on. Straight axle with lots of droop would be ideal for crawling.

Also, If you break a CV but don't have a +3.5 back up, that can be a problem, because you won't find them at the local parts store.

 

I’d put money into a crawl box before suspension / SAS

 

I don't need another measurement unless you're bored and want to share the information for a later resource. At this point, I'm going to bolt the shit together and hope it works. lol

Congrats on the new kit! Hope it works out for you this time!

 

If you don't already have extended travel shocks, I'd start there. I've done a fair amount of technical wheeling with a stock length kit and have had a blast. You're better off IMO putting that money into a winch for recovery. Sure, the couple extra inches of wheel travel is cool but at what cost?

The biggest hindrance to these trucks in the rocks is the ground clearance. If you really have the bug and money burning a hole in your pocket look at the JD Fab LCA relocation. That kit will allow you to fit a bigger tire without chopping up the cab and you can inches of ground clearance and approach angle if you're willing to put in the work.

Same price as LT? MAYBE parts costs come out the same but I feel the expensive part of SAS is the labor in fab work. Unless you do the work yourself.

Parts availability is huge when comparing kits and what the usage is. An extended length CV can run $500 a piece when you can find stock CVs for roughly $100. Great point.

This ^

 

If you’re good then I’m good. No sense in un burying my spare parts tote and digging it out if no one needs it haha

 

Thanks man! Yeah when all is said and done I’ll only be about 3k into the front as opposed to the 6k that the dirt king kit was costing before any labor for gussets and such. That’s much easier to stomach for me. Should pair well with the mid travel/expo setup in the rear.

 

i think the OEM frame extension that the rubber bump mounts too must be removed..... if my memory serves me correct from way back when we designed the kit

 

I’ve been looking into bypasses for my Camburg kit, their hoops say that the Oem bumpstops must be cut off although you can relocate hydro bumps a few inches forward if 2wd