Anyone here have CBI bolt on sliders?

I don't have a drill that can go through the frame so for this very reason I took it to a local shop, and gave them a print out of this walk through just to be certain it was idiot proof:

When I picked it up the guy said my kit was different than the one I gave the instructions for and there was no drilling needed. I get home and see these two spots - one where it appears a hole should be drilled and the other where it looks like it's missing a bolt.

Can anyone confirm whether they are correct and there shouldn't be any drilling, or that they lied and tossed whatever remaining hardware they had?

 

So I ordered the 2nd gen ones shown here: https://www.cbioffroadfab.com/produ...products/bolt-on-rock-sliders-2nd-gen-tacoma/

But after checking I have the mounting bracket of the third gen, shown here: https://www.cbioffroadfab.com/products/3rd-gen-toyota-tacoma/bolt-on-rock-sliders-3rd-gen-tacoma-2/

And my invoice says "2nd and 3rd gen", I even asked them about this but they said they'd fit. The 3rd gen design on their site says no drilling required.. is it possible they ship that design now for the 2nd gen and their site hasn't been updated? There is not four separate mounting spots as shown in the 2nd gen pics, just the one and then the longer section.

I know, I need to just call CBI but I was hoping to get some feedback until I can

 

CBI confirmed that they now sell the same sliders for the 2nd and 3rd gen, despite what is on their site. Still trying to figure out what is up with these misaligned slots where bolts obviously should be.



Not super happy that I paid out the ass to have a shop install these on the basis that drilling was needed.

 

Im on the same boat as u were. My supposed 2nd gen rock sliders finally came in after 3 months and what I recieved was what the 3rd gens looked like. Same thing on invoice. T2/T3 so that means it fits both now? I called CBI offroad and they too confirmed that the 2nd gen photo that had the 4 independent mounting points was out dated. They now use the current 1 mount in the front and the long bracket piece in the rears. I managed to do a pre mock up using 3 ton jackstands and what concerns me is that some of the holes don't line up completely. Even though the CBI rep says it fits. Also on another note I ordered the classic. No kick out style. What I received was the sliders with kickouts. I'm not gonna wait another 3 months or maybe longer for what I wanted originally so I'm gonna have to get used to it. Was contemplating of selling it but thought i could use the kickouts as a stepping point to access the top of the cab since I have their prinsu racks.

 

Many companies do this to save manufacturing time. 2nd and 3rd gen frames are the same besides variances of frame holes from 05-21.

 

Let us know how the install went. I ordered the double cab long bed version with kick-outs and top plates, for my 2015 tacoma, and they're due to ship in Feb.

 

I installed CBI Bolt On sliders a couple years back. I will have time tomorrow to take a look at mine and snap a couple of pictures of the mounting locations. As I recall I used all of the provided hardware. One modification I had to do was cut a bit of the cab just behind the front wheels for the sliders to clear the cab. I did not want any part of the slider touching my cab!

 

1. Here are some pictures of my slider installation. The large holes are clearance holes for frame rivets. But, it looks like you are missing a bolt to me! Hope this helps.

 

CBI did a video installing them on a 3rd gen. Another YouTuber said the only difference is on 2nd gen, you don't have to remove a control box. The start of video lays out the hardware you should have.

https://youtu.be/3ZZUOdqVr7E

 

I don't mean to sound like a Monday morning quarterback here but I bought a set of weld on sliders a few years ago and my local muffler shop guy welded the on for less than $100 and his welds are beautiful.
Just a thought for anyone else considering sliders.

 

They turned out to be too heavy to do by myself, so I had my shop do it. It was a first for them, and they gave me back two "extra" bolts. There is a new noise when I hit bumps with speed, like something is contacting, but the sliders themselves are solidly on. I'm going to look under, and make sure every bolt is there, and where the noise could possibly be from. Any ideas would be great.

 

When I installed my CBI sliders I had to cut a little bit of the cab pinch weld at the front of the slider on drivers and passenger side. The slider was contacting my cab before I made clearance at the pinch weld. The cab will move a bit relative to the frame as the cab sits on rubber mounts to isolate it from the frame. I suggest at least a 1/4" gap between the slider and cab. Also, snap a picture of you "extra" bolts. Maybe someone can enlighten you if they need installed.

 

Thanks for the reply, I think it could be the cab. Below I've posted pics of the extra hardware, 2 of the driver's side front, and 1 of driver's side back. It looks like there isn't much room between the slider and cab.

 

I would suspect cab interference is the source of your noise. I ended up using an angle grinder to clearance the cab before I installed my sliders. It may be done with a Dremel or the like with the sliders installed. As for hardware I had no left over hardware. The installer probably missed a bolt location on both sides. Take a look at CBI's install instructions to see if you can identify the location of missing bolts. There is a difficult bolt to install at the crossmember location. I have skinny ass arms to I was able to reach inside the frame rail to install the square plate and nut.

I have provided a picture of a gap that works for no interference. I do have polyurethane body mounts with less flex than factory rubber mounts. Also, the picture with the attachment hardware shows the bolt that is difficult to install, the top one in the picture.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks for taking the time to help out, I'll try your suggestions, thanks!

 

I spoke to CBI, and they say it happens sometimes, and the best way to fix it, is to loosen the bolts, have someone stand on the middle of the slider, then tighten it with them still standing on it. I'll follow up with results.

 

The only concern I have with the "stand on the middle of the slider" is that if one were to use a Hi-Lift on the slider it will surly migrate towards the cab again. Cutting a bit of the cab pinch weld was very easy. The raw edge can be painted with a small touch up paint bottle with a brush.

 

How'd that work out for you? I'm having the same issue and looking for a fix.

 

I was passing through Idaho, so I stopped by CBI to have their install guy fix it, and like D-Bag said, it was the pinch weld. He chiseled out the area of the pinch weld that was contacting, and no more rattle. It doesn’t take much, as you can see from the pic.