And so it begins - Carl's YABL (Yet another build log)

That 3-way setup would be nice. Makes me think of the old Q-logic kick panels they had. An angle to the 8's would certainly help and prob some deadening on that back seat panel. Looking at that pic, made me think of a Triangle design for the subs if you can get the air space you need. Will you go for a separate DSP or look for an amp with it built in for the front stage?

 

Nice thread, enjoyed the read. Sticking around, OP has the fever and the rabbit hole is near. I am sure which ever way you go it will be good and 8’s fit in doors for 3 way

 

"old school"? You're gonna be a rolling museum.

I kinda want to donate some JL 10w1's for this.

 

Its definitely a fun rabbit hole. I started chronicling my build on here and hope to update it once i decide on an amp to finish it off. If i had room, i think i would try one of PG amps but they are on the larger side. Even my old Infinity Kappa amp is too big to go under the seats. At 100x2 it would be perfect from the front stage.

 

I've got a mint condition pair of Eclipse 3322 amps sitting under a workbench but I'd still be missing a sub amp. I'm thinking at this point I'm going to go ahead and take over the space behind the driver side rear seat as well and ditch the JL class D amps and find some nice high power A/B amps instead.

 

DM coming?

 

Got the 1/0 power cable and ground run this afternoon and managed to sneak speaker wire into the driver side front and rear doors. This is one of the hardest vehicles to get wire into the doors that I've dealt with in a long time. It would be so much easier if those boots were level instead of taking a several inch drop making it so you can't get a wire pull through them. The only way to get into the front door was to disconnect all the plugs and pull the whole boot and wire harnesses out from the door jamb completely. Seriously Toyota, you make every other part of the vehicle easy to work on, why make the doors so difficult.

By contrast, the power wire was a piece of cake. Unfortunately the wire was too big to run in the same wire management as the factory wire under the sills so it had to run next to everything under the carpet next to it. Seems like everything goes back in place so it shouldn't be an issue.

Using some old school IXOS wire. Cool stuff and it's a shame you can't get the accessories for it anymore. I'll post pics later since my phone is elsewhere at the moment. I went 1/0 to allow for future planned amp upgrades. It's WAY overkill for those little JL amps but I have something planned for the long haul and those amps are just going to get me through a few months.

 

Some shots of the power wiring in progress. I still need to secure everything but want to make sure all of the trim panels fit back in place first before I finalize the placement.

I'm also planning to add a power tray at some point so the mounting of the fuse holder is temporary. I'll use a circuit breaker on the power tray.

 

Some shots of running the speaker wire into the passenger front door. Rinse and repeat for the other doors.

I found the easiest thing to do was remove the entire boot and harness to get the wire pushed through then reinstall back into the door jamb. It was a royal pain in the a$$ on the first door but once I figured out the process it went much easier after.

 

A couple of shots of the front door speaker install. Put deadener on the inside of the door skin along with the inner ring and plug from the fast ring set. Then some deadener on the outside, the Metra adapter, speaker and outer fast ring. I have to pull the vapor barrier off and finish deadening the inside of the door but that's for tomorrow.

 

Coming along nicely

 

So change of direction again LOL.

Switching to Audio Control amps. I'm picking up an LC-1.800 for the subs. That should give me the power I'm after with 800w @2ohm. Now I need to figure out what to do for the rest. I'm really wanting an A/B amp but the LC-4.800 or even 6.1200 are very tempting.

I also may make a jump to a miniDSP instead of the LCQ-1. I think the JL amps and the LCQ may find a home in my wife's Camry.

 

Those are two awesome amps. I was thinking about the 4.800 to run my whole system. They make the D version of it with DSP as well

 

Picked up the 4.800 locally today and the 1.800 is on the way from a different shop.

Got all speakers installed and tested and got the speed wire hooked up to the head unit. Tomorrow is box building day for the 3 ID8s and mount for the 2 amps and the LCQ-1. From there I'll have to order some finish materials once I see what I end up needing to cover.

 

Curious to hear your thoughts on that amp running your speakers

 

so what looks like lots of room behind the rear seats actually equates to not that much in terms of air space.

I went through 4 redesigns on paper to try to get the airspace I need. I landed on about 1.25cu-ft of usable while still allowing enough clearance for amps. These AC amps are a little over 2" so once I put a seat in and started taking measurements I quickly found that was almost too tall and had to scrap 3 other sub enclosure designs. I'm a little shy on airspace but I'll sudo-make up the difference with insulation inside the box. But at the end of the day I have a workable enclosure that will suit these 3 8's. Each wants 0.45 sealed volume and I'm just 0.1cu-ft shy of that overall. Unfortunately I'm not accounting for displacement either but I have to work in the envelope I'm given.

If I dropped to only 2 of these subs, not only would I be losing 1/3 of my cone area but also about 1/3 of my power by dropping from 2.67ohm to 4ohm so it was better to try to push forward with all 3 subs. Did multiple full scale drawings and finally hit on something that worked.

 

Are you putting the amps under the rear seats or under the front?

 

Neither. They're going above the sub enclosure. There was only enough room under the drivers seat for an amp. The passenger seat has some big brace attached to it that wouldn't clear the amps and these things are too big to fit a pair under just 1 seat. They were also too big to go in the storage under the rear seats. That left fitting behind the seats with the subs.

If you look at the scale drawing in that first picture, that angled section on top of the box is for the amp rack. It should clear everything and leave just enough room between the amps and seats for some air movement. I'll just have to keep an eye on overheating and if that happens I'll have to add some sort of cooling back there.

 

Ok, makes sense. I picked up some 1'' seat jackers since i will place one under the drivers front seat. cant wait to see your final project. Keep rolling on!!!!