What are the Pros cons between Elite Haltech Stand alone and Fic6 piggy back Supercharger

I’m looking for some feedback on those that have installed an Haltech stand alone
.
Is there an advantage over the fic6 that cost half as much?

Besides the obvious price between the two.

This one comes with the plug and play harness.


Adapter Kit SNP-5VZ-750-A
http://snpspeed.com/SNP-5VZ-750-A.h...pqDAwL4p2EYpzS-HJFTGzq97AdX01LZaZ-_9sT33S3clY

 

sub'd for interest, but DAM $2.5k for just that, ouch

 

I've heard that haltech is making good stuff right now and its worth it. FIC 6 is better than stock and it does work, but it is very limited on what it can do. Our ecu's pull a lot of timing and are not very accurate in fueling or control. FIC has a benefit of being taken out easily and a lot cheaper but for you, @1997tacomav6 I think you would be best off with the stand alone because the fic will not have the ability to change everything as much. Though it will take a lot more time and effort, along with more money... its definitely a better solution. Plan on multiple dyno days though if you do

 

I talked with Gabe who sells these and has the maps,

He said he has multiple maps for the 3.4 and he can tune it remotely from his location.
A few hours of tuning is what he says and 30 minutes to install it since it’s plug and play.
The Toyota ECU is very conservative and will do everything it can to keep the air fuel at 14.8, it uses two inputs and that’s why the open loop is never in the same place or consistent when it comes on.

Haltech this will not be an issue and doesn’t use the the MAP sensor system and gets better timing numbers

The 750 is not compatible with the OBII,
The 2000 series is compatible,
Food for thought, they are 6 weeks out on delivery.

Probably going to pull the trigger on this

 

Bolded section is not quite right. O2 sensors bounce on stock ecu's on purpose. The bounce is for emissions and fuel economy. Its not because it has 2 sensors. narroband sensor is to check that the cats and front o2 sensor are working. Haltech will most definitely do better with timing and AFR as its made to do what you want. Timing fith the fic6 is very limited.

Isn't MAP the best way to tune by? Either way, if you can pass emissions in your state, just go full standalone. Its the best solution.

Looking forward to seeing where you go.

 

Yup, that what I mean,

To pass Emissions you have to remove the Haltech 30 minutes and plug the OEM one back in.
Then go for Emissions,

The Haltech is plug and play with the wire harness and you need to remove the oem 02 sensor and put in the Haltech 02 sensor and reverse this for Emissions,

I don’t know the best way for tuning but Gabe does and can do it remotely,
He’s done plenty of these installs and knows what’s needed.

I actually didn’t know it was so simple to install and uninstall for Emissions

 

Would it be a problem that you just reset the new ecu? Like all the testing would say not ready on the obd2? Or change for like 2 days beforehand?

 

This is new to me so don’t know

 

Alright, really looking forward to seeing this take off and make some

 

All I know is that with the methonal my power is great, actually fantastic but it’s not consistent between runs let’s say and the AFR is hard to keep it at 11 in wot open loop and closed loop.

And my timing varies a lot.

The Haltech should make this all go away and have a consistent power all the time I’m thinking with better timing numbers

 

Do you run a lightweight crank pulley by chance?

 

I don't but have been considering making a 6 rib conversion for my truck. Don't know how hard it is to change the crank pulley, or for that matter, theres a lot of controversy as to wether or not a heavier one is better as it might absorb vibrations. I tend to lean toward not enough to matter but I dont know enough.

If you are thinking lightweight crank, make sure you go for (or look into) a light flywheel first. They can be really heavy for rotating mass. Also allows for faster shifting if you are shifting faster than the truck rpm comes down.

 

Yup, I’m on the fence on that one even though LCE and URD make them.
Yes I’ve looked into the 6 rib too,
The supercharger pulley, the crank pulley and the fan pulley I have covered
BUT
I’m just not sure how the alignment of the power steering and ac compressor, ac idle pulley would work because they would not be perfectly lined up with the 1/2” or so Added offset with the added 2 ribs,
Interesting enough you can’t get one from the dealership if you wanted a new one because it was made for the Japanese market.
Used ones you can of course

 

So you have erratic timing as well?

I wish we could just get Magnuson to do the right thing and come up with a ECU with a EO.

I’m assuming that remote tune carries a price as well.

 

Correct,
When the stars are lined up it runs like hell, but when the ECU decides to go a different direction with timing and closed loop it runs just ok,
Yes remote tuning is a few hours at 150.00,
It’s an experience road for sure if you want it done correctly and that’s why I not getting much input from anyone that has actually done it with the supercharger

 

I would say sticking with the power steering pump line and extend it back toward the ac. Make it a 6 rib as well and just order it off of gates as they have almost any length. Alternator is super easy, as well as supercharger. Crank and fan will be not super hard but probably be best to have someone else do it unless you have a lathe. Looks like you can just make a new pulley for the ac compressor and power steering pump. You can get accurate measurements for how far in/out those should be off of the crank pulley. Also getting a 6 rib tensioner and possible new idler wouldn't be bad. Might be able to make a bracket off of the Ac idler bracket or getting new longer bolts and making a bracket on the outside of the alternator.

Question is weather or not it would be worth it. Adding more wrap around the pulley does a lot for grip and it might be possible that just adding a single static tensioner for more belt wrap would solve our slipping problems. For example, if we have 170* of belt wrap right now, and we increase the belt wrap to 230* (about the max you can get with our setup I think) you get about 1.7 times the holding force on the belt. That should stop the slipping. You can also get one of the griptec pulleys that increase the coefficient of friction. This would probably be easier and work better than the 6 rib idea. Though you could do both for the looks and for fun.

For adding a pulley, I was thinking of using a static tensioner and adding on a dynamic to the side. The original pulley setup had 2 idlers but they would fall off. (presumably because they would get slack after the sc) Absolute best might be 2 idlers and a dynamic so that you can get the absolute most belt wrap and take the slack off the line. Not sure.

 

So my direction actually is different than yours and probably an easier solution.

You might no be aware but ALL the JDM 3.4 Japanese motors actually we’re all made with a 6 rib crankshaft, fan pulley and alternator.

Those parts are not available here in the USA and the Toyota dealership does not have access to these parts. I tried that route.
There are plenty of these parts floating around at the shops that do these swaps tho.
So the crank and fan pulley and alternator and supercharger pulley are not the problem.
You can see in this picture the the power steering pump,
Maybe it’s a different pulley that sticks out farther for the offset and that’s all or a different power steering pump.? Or possible the bracket is different to hold it in a different offset.
The AC pulley one can find a spacer or a 6 ribbed pulley but just use 4 of the ribs to match up.
Possibly a different fan bracket too, not sure. If the fan bracket is longer that might be a problem to find when it goes bad.

I might have to find a shop local that does these swaps that I can get these parts from to see.

 

There’s a number of reasons why, other than the cost to do so, I’m hesitant of a full aftermarket solution. I won’t be surprised when it’s impossible to do so without providing proof that what it’s going on is a full time dedicated off road vehicle. Just do some googling on this.

It makes me so irritated that the 3.4 guys were left out in the cold when it comes to a proper tune. Theres no doubt in my mind that Magnuson and even Toyota know that it does not work without aftermarket support/bandaids but they play it off anyway like you don’t need it because saying otherwise could get them in trouble.

As for the 6 rib mod I’ve though of this too. But you would probably need an extended AC compressor, extended steering pump bracket and a solution for possible fan interference with the radiator for it to work then you’d need a custom S/C pulley made too. Only a shop that has made these JDM swaps would know what’s different. But it’s a good idea.

 

And when comparing the FIC to a full standalone it’s going to be full standalone all day. The FIC cannot address the real issue with the way the OEM ECU handles timing. It can only add fuel and pull some timing.

 

I’m not worried about getting the haltech,

I think the 6 rib is very doable,
The JDM crank pulley and fan pulley are stock items for a 6 rib setup,
The supercharger pulley is not a problem and the alternator pulley can be sourced out.
The stock oem AC pulley can be probably used with the JDM bracket,
I have an aftermarket compressor and I can get a wider pulley to be able to line up the 6 ribs.
The extra 2 ribs will add maybe 3/8” and that’s not going to cause any fan interface even 1/2” will not.


I might stop by my local shop that does these swaps and see,

I just replaced my AC pulley today and it’s pretty easy if I want to get a wider one,