What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

You haven’t done a voltage boost for an agm battery have you? Leds are very voltage sensitive. You can boost alternator output voltage ~.6V by replacing a fuse with an ato mini blade diode.

 

Is this different from the inline dip switch alternator booster?

I have an AGM and have been contemplating doing something to increase alternator output for battery health but also concerned about over-volting my ECU or adding more wear and tear to the electrical system.

As for on topic most 12v LED's will happily function from 9-36v at least that's what my Rigid's say and I've had no issues with other LED products in similar fashion. I have played with voltages a little for shiggles on the bench, even blew up a few LED's for fun.

Very satisfying flash and crack they emit.

IANAEE

 

It’s just a simplified, non adjustable version of that mod.
The magic smoke. I’m pretty sure meso uses an array of 3V leds. The reason the 3mm leds work in aftermarket switches is the current limiting resistor bleeds down the excess voltage to under 3V. Without that limiting resistor it’s just the sum of the forward voltage drops of whatever leds are in series(parallel only affect total current). Usually leds are current controlled since that can vary greatly with small changes in voltage. No resistor and an increased voltage (even .5v) can let out the smoke. Once they start to go it generally cascades since there are fewer leds remaining to drop voltage.
Although the arrays blacking out is a concern my main reason for asking meso about it was reports of other issues since the timer delay off for the dome happens elsewhere(presumably an $ circuit board)and lots more light usually means at least some extra current even with leds. I got them because I truly despise weak lighting but I’d rather dim them a bit than have random stuff failing. I never heard back and yet it’s been almost 3 years trouble free for me. Then I see a post like this and wonder what is wrong with his and right with mine or is it just dumb luck. Not a big fan of that.

 

Yes, I have an Agm and a dip switch. FWIW I poked around at the back of the circuit board with my 12v probe and a couple lit back up. I thought along the lines it’s probably just over driven Chinese leds and never really bitched. Honestly the 3 leds are about perfect but sometimes they start to strobe and flicker. That started to bug me so I put in the onesie got in a trade.

 

Any computer system should in theory regulate the supply on the board. Automotive power is notoriously dirty but the lack of certainty is my concern. And even if the various major circuit boards are protected you can see that it’s not well regulated system wide by using a voltage display. Regulation may only be limited to capping voltage spikes. Maybe Caribe Makira knows more.

 

There is a thread on here somewhere that shows how to have the map lights connected to the dome lights so they operate at the same time triggered by when the dome light comes on.....I will edit and link the thread if I can find it but someone will probably beat me to it.

 

Change of plans 6112s I had were out of a T4R, and the bottom mount was too wide for my current LCAs, so I went ahead and installed the 700lb springs on the Kings and put them back in. Retune will be another day..
Fun fact, these 5th gen t4R sized rotors from Stoptech are about 4 pounds heavier than the worn stock I took off.
Steel lines showed up today so this should be all done tonight. Then this weekend will be putting steel extended lines on the rear and swapping in new leafs and BAMF hangers.

 

I also put 3rd gen OR shocks on mine too. No ad a leaf though. I think 3rd gens sit bout an inch higher from factory too... lol

 

I'd just like to add my 2 cents. I purchased this switch panel a while back, have it mounted in the blank space by my shifter next to the single cupholder (2.5gen)

looks and works great. I'll snag a pic a little later to post up in here...been meaning to.

 

Found out my "in stock" Prinsu awning brackets are going to take about 2 weeks to ship.
Then on the way home I started noticing a clicking noise that I only hear when I turn the wheel to the right and only above 30 mph or so. Sounds like it's coming from the driver's side. Thinking maybe a cv axle going bad? Took a quick peek and there's nothing super obvious. I'll have to take a better look tomorrow when I have some time to jack it up.

 

Added my REDNECK Edition badges today.

 

Yup. I sold my cap for $550 and bought this stuff with the money figured why not

 

Looks good with that bumper sticker.

 

Was rubbing the UCA up front and finally got my .75” bora spacers in. Threw them on today and happy to say the 35’s do not rub anywhere.

 

These meso lights are crazy bright. I just couldn't remember if they came on or not. It's probably a matter of dragging the power (neg) over to the dome and tapping in.

 

I just put 35s on & was immediately rubbing on my anti sway bar. So I deleted that. Now I rub my frame on the passenger side at full right-lock. (Driver’s side is OK).
My backspacing on my FN wheels is 4.25”. I’m considering 3/4” Boras. They are great quality. I’ve had 1” ones before - but I hate using spacers. I hate rubbing worse though.

 

I cut the cab mount bolts shorter.

 

How you like them tires?

Matt's recovery speaks highly of them even though they seem to have vulnerable side walls.

 

I have always been the same about spacers but as you said I hate rubbing worse. Mine was rubbing the UCA with hardly any movement of the wheel at all so it needed to be done. These are very quality and I love how they come in at under an inch.

I love them. Perform great in daily driving and awesome on the trail. I’ve also tested out the sidewall pretty good and it didn’t give so I’m pretty happy with them.