1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Replacing front wheel bearings

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Bamahoyt, Jan 6, 2011.

  1. Jan 6, 2011 at 3:01 PM
    #1
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Member:
    #36006
    Messages:
    645
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ted
    Knoxville, TN
    Vehicle:
    2014 TRD Sport DC LB 4x4
    Got new tires on today and was told that I needed new wheel bearings up front so I am going to try and get them knocked out before I leave for school on sunday. I was wondering if someone has a good write up on what all needs to be done. I have searched and found some info but not a write up. I am planning on just getting the new bearings from Advanced auto or napa depending what which is cheaper. Just trying to get an idea for what needs to be done besides getting the bearings pressed out and the new bearings pressed in.
     
  2. Jan 6, 2011 at 3:03 PM
    #2
    JasonJump

    JasonJump Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2010
    Member:
    #34799
    Messages:
    801
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Yukon Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    '05 Tacoma TRD Sport 4X4 D Cab Debadged
    Billy 5100's set at 2.5, iPhone innerface, TRD Sport wheels powdercoated Anthracite grey wrapped in 265/70/17 Duratracs, Custom Sliders
    Pep boys had them for a set of SKS bearings for like $135, they are great bearings, replaced them myself and wasn't too ahrd with the right tools and another hand
     
  3. Jan 6, 2011 at 3:15 PM
    #3
    85GT 79FJ40

    85GT 79FJ40 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Member:
    #47768
    Messages:
    1,113
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ken
    New Hampshire
    Vehicle:
    19 TRD Sport DCSB 6M - 2017 Honda Africa Twin
    I just did mine a few weeks ago on the double cab I just bought and did them on my last 05 a few years back. If you have a press it's not that bad a job. The last one I did took an hour and fifteen minutes from sliding the jack under the truck to torquing the lugs back on. But I had done the other side 2 days before so all the tools were already out. And I have lots of air tools and a press. I don't have photos but it basically goes like this:

    Pull off the tire, put the truck on jackstands. Remove the brake caliper and rotor. I hang the caliper off the upper control arm with a bungee cord. Remove the brake line clip to the spindle and push the line back through it. Carefully take a die grinder and cut a slot in the brake line holder big enough to pull the brake line through. Or you could disconnect the brake line instead of doing this. I prefer not to. next unbolt the ABS sensor and free it's cable from the spindle and set it aside. Then remove the nut holding the axleshaft in. It's a 36mm. Tap the axleshaft with a rubber mallet so it's free. Then I remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing/hub onto the spindle and work the assembly free. Remove the brake dust shield. Undo the tie rod from the spindle. Undo the upper ball joint. Unbolt the lower ball joint from the spindle. Remove the spindle from the truck and bolt the hub/bearing back on. Then remove the rear dust/grease seal from the spindle. Be careful with this as they are like $28-30 each and ONLY AVAILABLE FROM TOYOTA. 3 of the 4 of these seals on my trucks were torn and needed to be replaced. If it's not torn and you are careful you can reuse it. Once that's off you can press the hub out of the bearing using the spindle to hold it in the press. Once the hub is out, unbolt the bearing and toss it. Tap a new outer dust seal onto the new bearing and press the hub into the new bearing making sure the back side of the bearing is fully supported on a flat surface. Then bolt it all back together. Often the outer race of the bearing will get stuck on the hub. You can carefully slice it with a die grinder until you've almost gone through it and then either cold chisel or air hammer it off. If you don't take the spindle off to use in a press you are going to need one hell of a beastly hub puller to get that sucker out.
     
  4. Jan 6, 2011 at 4:54 PM
    #4
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Member:
    #36006
    Messages:
    645
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ted
    Knoxville, TN
    Vehicle:
    2014 TRD Sport DC LB 4x4
    Thanks for the help. Anyone else have some experience or write ups? I found the bearings at Napa for $43 a piece so may go that route.
     
  5. Jan 6, 2011 at 4:59 PM
    #5
    builthatch

    builthatch MiG-21 superfan

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2010
    Member:
    #46713
    Messages:
    550
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony Mandarich
    near the ocean, NJ
    Vehicle:
    '11 SSM SR5 6 speed 4x4
    Hella DOT wattage high performance 9003 headlight bulbs, Optilux by Hella XY h10 fog light bulbs, Suntek HP50 tint, AFE Stage II Si intake
    out of curiosity, how many miles do you have on your truck?
     
  6. Jan 6, 2011 at 5:02 PM
    #6
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Member:
    #36006
    Messages:
    645
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ted
    Knoxville, TN
    Vehicle:
    2014 TRD Sport DC LB 4x4
    I have 138k on my truck
     
  7. Jan 6, 2011 at 5:14 PM
    #7
    builthatch

    builthatch MiG-21 superfan

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2010
    Member:
    #46713
    Messages:
    550
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tony Mandarich
    near the ocean, NJ
    Vehicle:
    '11 SSM SR5 6 speed 4x4
    Hella DOT wattage high performance 9003 headlight bulbs, Optilux by Hella XY h10 fog light bulbs, Suntek HP50 tint, AFE Stage II Si intake
    k, thanks. i was just curious.
     
  8. Jan 6, 2011 at 5:33 PM
    #8
    pmo

    pmo Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2008
    Member:
    #4216
    Messages:
    425
    Nova Scotia Canada
    Vehicle:
    2007 Tacoma 4x4, DC, 6 Speed Manual.
    is it nessecary to have the front end lined up after the job since you'vre unhooked the ball joints etc? Just had mine done under waranty no mention of getting an alignment fron the dealer
     
  9. Jan 6, 2011 at 7:19 PM
    #9
    JasonJump

    JasonJump Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2010
    Member:
    #34799
    Messages:
    801
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Yukon Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    '05 Tacoma TRD Sport 4X4 D Cab Debadged
    Billy 5100's set at 2.5, iPhone innerface, TRD Sport wheels powdercoated Anthracite grey wrapped in 265/70/17 Duratracs, Custom Sliders
  10. Jan 6, 2011 at 7:26 PM
    #10
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Member:
    #36006
    Messages:
    645
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ted
    Knoxville, TN
    Vehicle:
    2014 TRD Sport DC LB 4x4
    That is the whole bearing assembly, I am planning on just getting the bearings pressed out with new bearings alone. I will cross reference them for sure though. thanks for the help
     
  11. Jan 6, 2011 at 7:30 PM
    #11
    JasonJump

    JasonJump Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2010
    Member:
    #34799
    Messages:
    801
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Yukon Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    '05 Tacoma TRD Sport 4X4 D Cab Debadged
    Billy 5100's set at 2.5, iPhone innerface, TRD Sport wheels powdercoated Anthracite grey wrapped in 265/70/17 Duratracs, Custom Sliders
    Well man its a sealed bearing assembly, you can press the bearings out of the hub, but not out of the bearings assembly and re-pack it. the picture I showed on that post is "just" the bearing assembly. not the hub. U can't pack these bearings assemblies like the old Toyota's
     
  12. Jan 6, 2011 at 7:43 PM
    #12
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Member:
    #36006
    Messages:
    645
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ted
    Knoxville, TN
    Vehicle:
    2014 TRD Sport DC LB 4x4
    But you can buy new whole bearings and press the old bearings out of the assembly and press the brand new bearings into the assembly. The dealership and other places usually choose to replace the entire assembly because it costs them about as much in labor but since i will be doing it, the labor isn't a problem and plan on pressing the old bearings out and pressing the new bearings from napa into the assembly.
     
  13. Jan 6, 2011 at 8:54 PM
    #13
    JasonJump

    JasonJump Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2010
    Member:
    #34799
    Messages:
    801
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Yukon Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    '05 Tacoma TRD Sport 4X4 D Cab Debadged
    Billy 5100's set at 2.5, iPhone innerface, TRD Sport wheels powdercoated Anthracite grey wrapped in 265/70/17 Duratracs, Custom Sliders
    RIght on, I was just told different I guess, told that since it was a sealed bearing unit that I couldn't do that, but good luck! Its not too bad of a job
     
  14. Jan 6, 2011 at 9:55 PM
    #14
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Member:
    #36006
    Messages:
    645
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ted
    Knoxville, TN
    Vehicle:
    2014 TRD Sport DC LB 4x4
    Yea I thought that originally but had another guys say he just bought the bearings for about 80 for the pair and pressed them in there. Is there anything specific I will need to get stuff taken apart except for the pressing aspect? Thanks for the help.
     
  15. Jan 7, 2011 at 8:18 AM
    #15
    85GT 79FJ40

    85GT 79FJ40 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Member:
    #47768
    Messages:
    1,113
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ken
    New Hampshire
    Vehicle:
    19 TRD Sport DCSB 6M - 2017 Honda Africa Twin
    The bearings look exactly like the photo from that other post. Anyone who's told you otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about. And I work in the parts business and I can't buy the bearings for what Napa is telling you so they are probably the wrong ones. The SKF part number for these is FW 194. I know GMB makes these too but my previous experience with GMB bearings is not very good. They are all from China. The SKF may be too but I've never had to replace a SKF a few times within 10k miles like I have with a couple different GMB bearings on other makes. The hub presses into the bearing but it bolts to the spindle. You can purchase new hubs from Toyota for I recall something like $135 a side which would make this a very quick job. Just put the bearing on a flat surface fully supported from behind, tap on a new outer seal, and press the hub in and bolt it back on. You wouldn't even need to touch any of the ball joints. My local dealer tells me that's how they usually do them as it can cost more in labor to get the old hub out than the cost of the new hub. That reminds me I should ask them for a few smoked bearings with hubs in them the next time I'm there. With a complete assembled hub/bearing assembly this is probably a 20-30 minute job.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top