Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Dang, well removing the TC stuff is not really an option for me.

 

You can still do the lower pivot but you'd set it at the .25 forward setting vs all the way forward

 

The lower pivots will work fine with any upper arms on the market. The lower pivots can mover the lower arm forward 1/4” to 1” so if you already have aftermarket arms with caster built in you just don’t push the lower arm all the way forward. While you won’t gain the benefit of increased tire clearance against the cab you will still have bomb proof lower arm mounts, lockable alignment cams that use grade 8 bolts and increased ground clearance over anything else.

Also if you decide down the road that you want more cab/tire clearance you can easily add our upper arms and then push the lower arm forward

 

yea transition from the pavement to the perfectly flat decomposed granite hard pack was sketchy at first but once I was less than 5mph, could really feel the suspension working and doing its thing.

 

Any shock fade with those free bleeds?

 

no but to be honest it was a pretty short run. didn't check the resis for temp. haha

 

Got a nice little package from JD fab today! While it's going on a different front end set up I can already see myself ordering another set of these for the rear of the truck. Thanks for thinking outside the box!

 

On the +2.25" kit, this brings the wheel an extra 0.875" forward over stock? How much more is that than what my JBA UCA is doing? Right now I have 35's on 16x8" 4.11 backspace wheels and 0.75" spacers. If I wanted to keep close to the same track width and jump up to 37's on 17" wheels, what backspacing would I need to look at?

 

“My 35s rub”

I wanna see it on rocks. Do ittt

 

All aftermarket UCAs get the additional caster by leaning the spindle back from the top thus moving the wheel towards the cab. The LCA moving the lower ball joint forward pushes it away. The reason you can get away with the UCAs at static ride height is because it corrects geometry. Once you start flexing the LT pushing the LCA forward to correct the geometry gains you the clearance.

As far as the wheels a 17×8.5 with a 4.5 bsing will keep it good.

 

Good deal. I bet I could clear a 37 and just worry about the upper wheel well if the kit pushes the wheel out that much without the pivot kit.

@81Trekker do you have updated lead times for King or Fox? Are you guys tuning these based on customer’s needs? Any preference between the two brands for a workhorse/DD/slow crawling? I’ve enjoyed my compression adjusters on my Kings, but wouldn’t mind having high and low controlled separately like with Fox. Death by a million tiny questions, I know.

 

Fox is 16-18 weeks and king is 8-9 months.

both are great products and both are built around our kits.

if you’re after adjustment and tune capabilities add a secondary shock

 

Do you have pricing for Fox? Secondary shock might be overkill for me, but do you have a Fox free bleed like the King?

 

$739 for each fox plus the cost of springs

and yes fox has a similar product to the free bleeds

 

Now you got me rethinking my whole shock decisions.

 

One or eight more questions. I threw my OEM axles in the trash like an idiot about eight thousand years ago. Can I just buy complete axles (+2) fully assembled from you guys? What would that run if so?

 

Lol can you cancel your king order? I’ve not ran fox but accutune seems to push them more than king?

 

it's gonna cost you. Harry offers *market price* haha... you're ok.

 

No I can't I was just messing. I'm gonna get them in and on the truck play with spring rates/pre-load and then valving to get it tuned exactly where I want it.

Any fine tuning with valving is on your own kinda deal just like other companies they set them up but every driver, vehicle, and set up is different so getting it there is kinda a throw in the dark. Get a base and then go from there.

If you want "fine" tuning adjustments after valving like Harry said a secondary shock to handle the work on that. There are cons to that as well. For what we do getting a standard king riding it for a bit and making some adjustments to the valving, preload, and/or spring rates will net you what ya need. No need to go nuts especially for a DD. The wife would hate bypasses.

 

I mean worst case scenario I buy some OEMS and ship them to him or something for the 934 upgrade or shaft swap, but swapping the shafts looks like a giant pain in the ass without the right tools.