E-Locker/4WD coming on randomly? Please Help!

So did OP get it fixed? If so, what did he do to fix? Having similar problem but my abs, 4x4, 4Lo and diff lock all light up solid any time the truck wants although truck is in 2 wheel drive. If lights come on you can not switch into 4 wheel drive untill lights go out and then everything works as normal. Leave truck sit over night and lights usually clear themselves. Does not throw any codes. Have spent hours trying to find problem but so far no luck.

 

^ Hey WV, I haven't got to bottom of it yet, it's in the shop today! However, I did end up manually decoupling my elocker which at least allowed me to drive it around again with the rear locking diff disabled.
I am having the exact same thing with it sitting overnight. What a crazy deal... I'll get back with you if the shop finds something!

 

I ended up purchasing new diff actuator. That fixed diff light coming on. Installed a new abs sensor which removed ABS light. Still have 4 wheel drive hi and 4Lo light coming on randomly. So far cleaned/swapped out Hi and Lo sensors, cleaned transfer case actuator, checked and cleaned all connections. Checked connection on ADD. Replaced 4x4 ECU. Ran couple extra ground wires back to transmission and transfer case. Still those 2 lights come on randomly. Ordered new ADD. Going to install it when I get it. Have checked all wiring....at least what all I can see. Double checked all plug ins....would like to replace the actuator on transfer case but read that case has to be opened up to do that...not positive because I also read somewhere that you could just replace actuator without doing the shift rod that runs into the case....above my skills. Have another transfer case but not sure actuator on that case is any better. Thought about just giving up and selling it but have alot of blood sweat and tears in this project since we just swapped out the motor, transmission and transfer case out of another truck which only had 92K miles on it. Well post more if we gain anymore ground.

 

Hey Longlegs, I ended up buying a new diff actuator as well and went to install it last week, but the linear gear that the diff actuator retracts and extends to engage the diff lock is now stuck in the 'disengaged' position! When I first dug into this I could move it back and forth easily, but the new diff actuator requires it to be in the 'engaged' position upon install.. and wouldn't you know it's stuck disengaged. Forcing it to engage with a pry bar doesn't feel even close to right.... Did you have anything similar or know what I might try?

 

You could chock the front tires, put it in N and jack up the rear axle. Give everything a spin and then try again. There needs to be some play for the locker to engage and lock the L and R sides of the diff together.

 

Thanks for taking the time to help SR!

 

1159, I hope you got it installed and it works. I ordered mine on line and haven't gotten it yet.

 

Hey guys and gals!, the odyssey continues.... So I had the rear Elocker replaced a month ago professionally, and unfortunately it didn't fix the issue. The locker was working intermittently, and what's worse is this past week it started 'catching' under normal driving conditions. I took it to the dealership to get the pros looking at it, and it appears the whole rear end might need to be rebuilt as the gears are worn.. the diff fluid is sludgy with lots of shavings in it. So... it appears I will need a whole rebuild to get the whole system to be happy, which includes the whole rear axle assembly! An OEM version of this costs about $3100 from their parts network, which is about half of what I paid for the truck.

After looking on Rockauto for a rebuild kit that includes the axles and diff I couldn't find anything. Does anyone know of alternative options outside of a junkyard? Or would that be my best bet here? Thanks as always for the advice

 

Just buy a new 3rd from ECGS

 

what did you get replaced, the differential or the actuator?

 

Just the actuator has been replaced so far.. the old one had voltage going to it and wasn't cooperating I was told by my mechanic, thanks for the quick feedback! @reg.. sorry i'm not suuuper mechanically inclined.. what is a 3rd?

 

If they're saying you have to replace all the gears and locker and all that jazz, buying a new 3rd member from East Coast Gear Supply is probably your cheapest and easiest option

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-131078-8-tacoma-fj-cruiser-4runner-e-locker-3rd.html

 

THanks Reg! I'll check back in with you all when the rear end is rebuilt and hopefully this get's us a working 4wd system again. If anyone else knows of some good options please feel free to post and I'll check back in.

 

locking in while driving does not make sense to me. The sliding collar is on a worm gear, if the actuator was replaced and it's engaging at speed, something is seriously wrong and I don't know what would cause that other than the shift fork being broken

 

So after 4 weeks I have an update for those of you who have been kind enough to help me along this process.
- Third member ordered from ECGS (Thanks again Reg) Lead time was three weeks, cost was $950 with a whopping $1200 core charge for those interested. This was still waaaaaaay cheaper than any alternative I found.
- Third member installed by mechanic
- They tell me 4WD high/low are now working, gear whine is also gone. However...
- Something is still not working between the Diff Lock Switch and the Actuator. The actuator has been tested itself and functions fine, and wiring has been inspected between the two to no avail.
- The Diff Lock Switch is also functional.
- Their suspicions are either that the computer is bad (unlikely from what I hear) or there may be some wiring issue in an area that isn't easy to be seen, such as behind the dash.


I'm planning on disconnecting the harness at the actuator until I can find a place that specializes in this kind of thing. Hope this helps for those of you with similar issues!

 

What a pain in the arse!

 

Nice update! I would just bypass the stock wiring and computer, you can run a DPDT switch and new wires to the actuator for a couple bucks and bonus being you can engage the locker in 2wd

 

Assuming the actuator was installed correctly so that it will actually function?

There is a specific way to install it from what I remember reading

 

@6 gearT444E That's maybe the best advice I have heard for weeks... I just found a shop near me that has a good reputation for doing custom work, I'll check with them and see if it's something they might be interested in. The bonus of lock anytime would be especially useful it seems like?
@SR-71A They were able to apply voltage to the locker to get it to actuate properly I am told, so the wiring around that and the locker itself hopefully isn't the issue!

I'll hopefully check back with you all in a week or two when I get news onto the DPDT switch. One other interesting item.. The 4WD LOW doesn't seem to be engaging properly as well? I have tried engaging in Neutral and park, but it just flashes and beeps at me. Might this be another indicator of a faulty 4wd computer?

At least with 6gear's method I could have 4WD HI pretty quickly, but it would be nice to get LOW to be happy as well.
thanks again!

 

Here's the schematic for wiring it up. The actuator has not changed style in many years same design as the early 90s. I would take the connector at the actuator, cut the harness leaving a few inches and splice in new 7 conductor cable (or run 7 individual cables in wire loom, but the multiconductor will be cleaner)

https://www.showmecables.com/14-awg...1ajQw6P15SsocULS6wsXw4v7q2wWCQVAaAr3vEALw_wcB