Toyota TRD OEM lift kit

I think this is the key. General safe rec is 275, but I think one MAY have a set up that works with 285 depending on wheel offset and tire etc.

just have to determine for oneself.

 

Just got mine installed yesterday...the ride quality is about the same as stock, with one difference: there's a significant reduction in nose-drop. The truck definitely stays more level at braking. It's also a bit stiffer in the turns, less roll. After some measurements, at the bottom of the fender, along the center of the wheel, I went from (approximately) 34-7/8" Front and 36-5/8" rear to 37-1/4" front and 38-5/8" rear. Very small rake, without measuring, it looks perfectly level. Overall - I like it.

$1350 for the kit, $1148 for the install (+Uncle Sam's cut) - which included mounting & balancing on new wheels (4Runner TRD Pros). West Kendall Toyota treats their customers well. If you're down here in South Florida - highly recommended. The obligatory before & after with some measurements:

 

I'm trying to compare what you get with this kit compared to a lift from Head strong off road.
Like what is all included here. Do you get new front coils like the Eibach Pro kit? Or is the TRD kit using a top spacer with new struts and shocks? The parts site doesn't really say it has or doesn't have coils. I see that the rear is a block. And with the Eibach Pro I'd get to choose an AAL or buy a block.

I see that you get a pro grille which is cool but I could do without. And the fog lights covers I would not want to install.
What else is included or things are there to consider over an aftermarket lift kit having this or the Eibach Pro installed by an independent mechanic.

 

you get shocks that have notch settings for the front lift and a rear block. basically same setup as if you are installing 5100's

extras that come in the kit are the trd pro grill, a new radar sensor for some reason i dont know why they just cant reuse the one on the truck and fog light covers to delete your fog lights depending on the state you are in.

 

So you reuse the coils you have already?

 

yes

 

Is that 1 tire size bigger than before?

 

Closer to 2 sizes bigger. Stocks are 265/70/16 so I think the "next" size would have been 275/70/16. I went with a 17" wheel, so the 275/70/17 are just a little bit taller and wider. Any tire guys out there that know exactly what the increments would be?

 

Ya, technically ur right. But that 275/70/16 size isnt very common. A 265/75/16 or 265/70/17 would be the considered the next size up most of the time. Your size is about 1/2" taller and a 1/2" wider than a 265/70/17.

 

Sorry correct me if I’m wrong but from your post if I am understanding that correctly you’re running 275/70/17?

 

Yes - 275/70/17

 

I think so - yeah. When I first looked at the 265/70/17's I thought the difference was too little to notice, so I went to the 275/70's. It's subtle, but enough to notice visually, and on the ride. I admire those $5K suspension set-ups with the 35's, but it's something I'll never use.

 

There are not a very good selection in the 275/70/17s and none in a SL rating, a few in C and E rating which hurts the ride.

 

Thats also one of the reasons Ive hesitated to run 285s. I like the Pro Style wheels that I already bought and have on now and the only way you can get a 285 that mounts on a 16" wheel is by going to 10 ply. Ive found the 3 lightest tires in that 285/75/16 size, which are the Bridgestone Revos, the Firestone AT's both at 51 lbs, and now the Toyo AT3s at 52lbs which is light for an 10-ply tire but I dont need that thick of a tire and Im guessing the ride would be stiffer compared to the 265/75/16s SL that I currently have on.

 

I like the 17s better, Toyo open country at2 is what I use, and at3s are even better, both are awesome tires. They balance great, very light,ride incredible, do well in the rain and look great too. My son just got at3s sl after the at2s. There is a difference in ride quality. I like the looks of the 285s but don't want the headaches, power loss, gearing, shifts points off, fuel mileage suffers, and the rubbing which should no be a problem on the trd pro 4runner SEMA wheels. I have seen this combo work with a slight lift.

 

Did you have any problems with this method?

I spent all yesterday trying to get this to work and I could not get the top of the shock to pass above the hole of the mount. It wasnt stuck, just once it reached a certain point the truck would just continually lift and the spring wouldnt compress anymore. I tried to jack up the other side to try to shift more weight on the side I was working on but it still wouldn’t work.

 

Do you have a pic? I didn’t really have any issues. I had to have someone on the jack as I guided the strut through the hole to make sure it lined up though. Once the spring was at maximum compression from the truck, there was barely enough bolt thread to put the rubber bushing and top nut on, but it worked.

 

Don’t forget to take the sway bar loose on both sides. Your fighting against it if you don’t.

 

I didn’t remove the lower control arm cause didn’t want to mess with caster. Had no issue aligning the shock or spring to the top. My sway bar had to be lift up and fully out of the way though.

 

Ive done it that way multiple times. U have to keep one hand on the spring/shock assembly to guide it until the threaded stem on top starts poking through the hole while using the other had to work the jack.

Only other thing I no of would be in the spring seat was installed upside down on the shock. It should look like a tophat with the smaller part facing upwards.