Supercharging my 3rz

Hi TW, I have a 2000 2.7l 3rz and I just bought a used high boost sc kit. I’m planning to run the 58mm 10 psi pulley. I’m going to get pink top injectors, walbro 255 pump, aem x-series

$405 30-0300 AEM Electronics Combo X-Series AFR Wideband Sensor Controller Gauge & Boost Pressure Display Gauge

30-0300 wideband, new oem fuel filter, and new plugs. So here are my questions: which spark plugs do people recommend for a supercharged 3rz? Are there any other supporting mods that i’m missing? Does anyone sell headers that come with an exhaust bung?Thanks guys

 

10 PSI and the pink tops? Not sure if those push enough fuel to run that much boost. Might be time to look for a piggyback or standalone computer but someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in.

I run the pink tops on my supercharger with the 6.5 PSI pulley and I don’t plan on going to a higher CC injector without a tune and a piggyback computer.

Also for your AFR sensor, just weld a new bung on your downpipe. Exhaust shop did it for me for not too much. Originally I had a PLX DM6 wideband that intercepted the ECU signal with it’s own Bosch sensor so I didn’t have to run the stock sensor but I had problems with that so I went to just add another independent bung.

 

Maybe @boostedka you have some advice?

 

I have the split second piggy back and 5th injector already. I was also under the impression that the pink tops could supply enough fuel for 12-15psi but that could be totally false. Also seems like welding a new exhaust bung is the best/only option. Thanks for reply.

 

For spark plugs I ran NGK BKR7E-11 with both a turbo and a supercharger setup without any issues.

For your injectors, 8psi is about the max you should try and get out of the pink tops, especially with using a piggyback ecu to tune. This number is pretty widely spread across customtacos.

In my trial and error, these are the setups I've ran over the years.

S/C 5vz with a URD 7th injector setup which is similar to the Split Second to what you're talking about using. Tuning timing was a PITA since the stock ECU is always going to be adjusting to the changes you make and you'll ping like effing crazy. Also, the additional injector doesn't open up until you are over 3K rpm when it is needed much sooner than that, especially with a s/c set up.

S/C 3rz with the stock ecu and pink tops and later with 440's. Both setups pinged like crazy in the lower RPM range once the stock ecu adjusted the timing map. The 440's bogged down like crazy over 3k rpm from running too rich. They both felt like they lacked in torque in the lower rpm range.

Turbo 3rz with pink tops on the stock ecu @8psi. This ran really well and only leaned a bit on the top end at full boost. Zero pinging. Very reliable set up. Honestly the best setup for the money and makes a significant amount more power than the s/c does.

I also went to a Megasquirt 3 standalone ecu that I used on both the turbo and s/c 3rz motors. It helped out a ton on both motors, but made an exceptional difference on the s/c 3rz especially in the lower range rpm. This was from having full control over the timing maps. I could tell the motor exactly how much timing to run at any given manifold pressure and rpm.

If I was to ever do another 1st gen with forced induction, I would go straight to the standalone. It definitely costs more but if you get some solid base maps and know a decent bit about tuning, it makes a world of difference and you will get the full potential out of your set up, especially with a s/c. One of the really cool features of the megasquirt software was that is has an autotune function that works really well especially in regular around town driving.

 

Where did you get a used setup?

 

So basically seems like more of a tuning issue than fuel delivery. My question now is what would be the next best option? Thanks for the reply

 

I bought it from my friend. He had just purchased it from lce a couple months ago.

 

Yes depending on how much boost you are running. If you're using pink tops and getting over 8psi, then fuel delivery is a problem. But the biggest issue with forced induction, especially with superchargers, on a Toyota ECU is the timing since it is constantly adjusting the timing map based on many variables.

 

I wish I had a friend.... especially with a used SC....

 

I forgot to mention that I also have the 5th injector with my setup.

 

There are different options for you.
It all depends on your budget.

It’s all in the tune!

You can keep everything stock and run just methonal.
This is what I’ve done for the last 4 years or so 100,000 miles with up to 13 pounds of boost 3.4, 300hp rear wheel.
This works actually very well but the AFR does fluctuate a bit and is never perfect and is inexpensive.
It’s the same logic for a 4 or 6 cylinder.
You can run an fic6
7th injector
5th injector
Stand alone haltech

With all these the 1st thing is to make sure you fuel system is at 100 percent.
Fuel filter, injectors, fuel pump.
If you want max power turbo is you road.
If you want a perfect tune, stand alone is the route, everything else will be a bandaid.
The Toyota ECU has a very conservative timing curve and does everything to keep
the truck in closed loop and at 14.8 AFR SO the tune map is consistently changing.
Even with a modified AFR with the fic6 which is no longer available except used or a few places it is limited but a good option.
Methonal is your friend and if not water injection is very important because there is no intercooler.
I run a #5 nozzle which is big and I make my own mixture so it’s probably 40 percent methonal 60 water.
I have zero heat soaking issues even when it’s 100 degrees outside. Before methonal my truck when it was 100 degrees would run horrible.
Yesterday it was 80 degrees and and still hit 11.5-12 pounds of boost and pulling super hard because of the methonal cooling effect.
The larger the nozzle you can get away the better results you will have to keep the supercharger cool regardless.
It just depends on what u want and how much u can spend and how much maintenance your ok with.

I’m actually going a different route this week ordering a haltech 2000,
It’s expensive but it’s the only way to get a perfect tune with more power and being able to have a better timing numbers across the entire power curve.
I’ve talked to this guy Gabe who specializes in making these setups for the 4 and 6 cylinder engines. He has multiple start up maps specifically for our trucks,
Install takes 30 minutes max for the install, he makes all the adapters and wire harness plug and play.
I’m excited for the new mod,

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BIHYHKSFv94&feature=emb_imp_woyt

 

Look into the new ruthenium type spark plugs!
I just got these for my v6 and I can feel a difference,
These are two step cooler

 

Thanks so much for all the info.

Would you recommend the aem or snow performance water/methanol kit? Does the water/meth require any additional tuning and if so would just the piggy back be capable enough? If that wouldn’t work how would I set up plain water injection?

Thank you

 

I have the snow performance kit.

Yes the methonal needs tuning to get your engine to 11.5 afr,
You don’t need a piggyback system