75w140 in transfer case and rear diff?

Yup, several times in 6 trips since the change.

 

Right now is not the issue. The issue is when it gets cold out and you can't get the TC to shift out of 2wd.

 

last 2 trips it was 35F at mountain top, shifted smooth and into 4-lo also. No, that is not very cold, but those temps go away for the next few months. Even at 6,000 ft the lows will soon not go below 50F and will be that way until September. I expect to change to the 75w/90 within 2 months, next service.

I was also getting some driveline thunk from 2w to 4h before the change, that has gone away now.

 

This is my experience with 75W90. Had to wait 1/2 hour for the heat from the exhaust to warm up the T-case so I could get into 4WD to escape the overnight snow, a thousand miles from nowhere. Toyota LF only for me now. Not worth the risk experimenting.

 

Why in the world would you not just put in what the manufacturer tells you to use? Seriously? If you're going to change your TC fluid in 2 months anyways, why would you not put in the correct stuff? Why would you no just get the 75w LF from Toyota or an equivalent?

Why does everyone suddenly cheap out or try to outsmart Toyota when it comes to this stuff?

And the thunk has 0 to do with your TC or the fluid you put in it.

 

You need to read the full post. The shop put this in without my being aware. Once I discovered that I came on tacomwaworld to get some feedback.

This trip was done 2 days after the change, and 5 more like it since then. No shifting issues at all, not even into 4-lo. Very smooth. Highs of 35F on these trips.

 

It's fine. The heavier weight is for more severe use. Toyota recommends the low viscosity for the purpose of MPG.

 

i did read the same comments on another web article that discussed the tacoma 75 oil. An article posted by a gear shop. I am driving this type of road maybe 30 times each summer. I am not looking for bad roads or big rocks to drive over, the roads just happen to be like this to the lakes I fish alone. Meaning no other fishermen go because the roads suck so bad. This one is 50 miles of ball busting washboard road (I freaking hate the road), then 2 hours to drive the next 8 miles. Worth it when I get to the lake and its all mine even in peak fishing season. That solitude cannot be beat. Been at this 35 years now, 4th 4x4 and about 500 solo remote trips throughout British Columbia. Tomorrow morning at it again, and with that time to hit the sack for an early start. New spot, new roads, a few new lakes too.

 

Luca 75W140 here too. No problems.

I'm thinking some of you don't understand what the 75W means, in hot or cold temps, it's still 75W. 75W90, 75W110, 75W140, 75Wwhatever, it's still 75W cold. The 140 just gives you better protection once it gets hot and thins out. Will possibly affect MPG slightly, but may not be noticeable.

 

One thing to consider, is why would Toyota import the LF fluid from Japan, for sale in USA and Canada, if it had no special properties? Hell......Toyota isn’t trying to make the truck more expensive by putting fancy oil made out of beluga tears in it. They clearly have distinct purpose in speccin’ this Japanese oil in a North American produced truck, when there is a shit-tonne of refineries in Texas that would be happy to deliver some gear lube.

One thing to keep in mind is the transfer case isn’t so much a gear box and a chain box, and contains one bronze synchro. So I’m not sure regular old gear oil is the right sauce for the chain or the bronze ring.

I am also in BC and it was in a BC winter that my T-Case started sticking on very cold mornings with 75/90 gear oil in it. I have repeated the same conditions now that I went back to LF and no issues even in colder temps.

Not worth saving the $20 in my opinion, but for sure the world contains all kinds of folks, with many motivations and opinions, and that’s what’s great about it.

Mights as well put in straight 150W freight car journal oil in there and see how she goes. That’s gotta be better for high stress. 100% recommend 150W. Please report findings.

 

I put 590k miles on a Toyota 8" diff. I don't run Amsoil. I just understood the pdf to read Amsoil/Redline was the best oil to use.

It's likely I've worked on more diffs than most on this forum, as I've been off-roading since 1978.

 

You paid to get a job done, it was done wrong, it should be redone. Simple issue with a simple solution.

It's your money, do what you will. If it was me, I would have already gone back.

 

75w/140,

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90, 75w85... I'm surprised that, in the push for economy that they are not recommending lighter weight lubes.

 

According to a buddy that operate an independent garage, the differentials aren't as big a deal with what lubricant you use long as its the weight the manufacturer specs. The transfer case in these gen3's are another matter. It needs to be that LF 75 W or an equivalent to work well in colder climates.

 

This.

 

Out right now looking for remote lakes. In and out of 4-lo very smooth. 45F so not not cold, but 34F last few weeks same, shifts into 4-lo and our without a sound and instantly.

 

This was my truck on the trip when the problems occurred. That’s frost.

 

From Toyota Corp. using 75w90 is perfectly fine.

 

What kind of miles? Which model truck?

I've averaged about 15k per diff on my truck. It's an 09 with ~60k miles on its 4th diff. You can check my gallery to see how it's used, which is inarguably severe/extreme duty. The most recent two diffs were ECGS built with solid spacers on the pinion and cryo'd gears from Nitro.

The obvious counterargument would be "Well, the truck isn't spec'd for that kind of use". Sure, but older Toyota models were *known* for holding up extremely well under such use and they weren't spec'd for it either.

So what happened?

Point being, unless you're will to chop out the stock gear and shove rock jocks under there, that lil rear diff could use every bit of help it can get.

Theres nothing wrong with the high quality synthetic lubes, but I don't see a justification for the extra cost.

 

What temperature? We get frost like that here in mornings when it is above 32F.