Let’s play guess that sound!

Uploaded video now!

 

I have exact same noise when going over speed-bumps or when flying down FSRs. It’s doing it ever since the truck was new.

I’m pretty sure it’s the front body mounts, I’ll get around to it one day.

Funny thing is, my 07 ranger did that exact same noise for 7 years and I never had issues.

 

I have the same noise for a few years now. I heard the remedy was the front body mount bushings. I ordered some poly ones on Amazon for $28 and will be installing this weekend. I'll report back whether or not it resolved the issue.

 

can you take pictures of your install and include here. If I don’t drive the truck into a wall, I’m gonna get the same bushings I think.

 

Please let us know. I am super curious!

I would like that noise to be gone.

 

It’s driving me insane! I’ve taken apart the suspension twice, checked torque on everything. I’m leaning towards front body/radiator mount bushings..

 

Yep, that’s probably it.

Curious as to what @kshoots will have to say.

 

https://youtu.be/5shCfRHJeGg

There is my video, sounds exactly the same.

Here is the thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-the-heck-is-this-noise.693148/

 

I'll take some pics, might get around to it today after work. Been putting it off long enough bushings came in months ago.

 

Awesome, thank you!

 

Read your thread...I’m gonna rule out shocks and coils. I put Bilstein 5100s on at 700 miles (now have 3800) and the sound developed here in the last 1000 or so miles.

 

@Ehahn84 @Mrtacoman88

Well got it done, Clank/Tick noise over bumps is gone. I have some pictures of the install. The only issue is I have to contact energy suspension to clarify which side is top vs bottom. I looked at another thread that had the thicker bushing on top (between body and frame) and the thinner one on the bottom. Issue I had is the thicker bushing with embedded metal sleeve was in no way shape or form going to fit between the frame and the body. I used a floor jack and 2x4 to lift body while sliding in bushing. Maybe if I were to loosen the next body mount, rear of the wheel, I might have been able to squeeze that thicker one in. In the videos and tutorials I've researched, the thicker bushing didn't have the metal sleeve embedded in the rubber so it was easier to fit in between. I made sure that the part numbers were the same but they don't look the same. Either way the ones that came out were shot. At least there's new rubber between now and the noise is gone. For now that is...

 

Hell yeah! If it fits and works the way it should the way it’s in now...let it be! Thanks for the pics! Did you remove the front bumper? How long did it take you?

 

No bumper removal went in thru the wheel well. Took 20min each side. Just turn the wheel towards the side you're working on. I believe there were (3) 10mm body screws and (2) body push pins to pull back the liner and pin it behind the tie-rod.

 

@kshoots csn you confirm that this is the correct orientation for the poly bushings. I seem to have an extra metal inner sleeve.

 

That's the one i got, same number and looks the same. Not an extra sleeve, that one goes inside the other sleeve. The "extra" sleeve is the same sleeve that's in my picture all rusted and dented from hitting the frame. Maybe this is an updated design that has the embedded metal. Glad to see you have the same bushings and mine was not incorrectly labeled as that part number.

I will still contact energy to verify and post my findings.

 

Awesome, thanks for the write up!

I might tackle it this weekend, we will see.

 

I contacted energy and they haven't responded yet, but after reading through quite a few pages of this replacement in the 2nd gen section, seems like its preference on the gap you want between the bumper and the fender. Some had it installed thick bushing up top but had to redo and flip to thick on bottom due to hood alignment and the gap being too big between bumper. Also read that its recommended to loosen both driver and passenger at the same time to have enough flex to install the thick bushing on top. When installing the washers some had said that they created a new noise of the larger washer on the bottom hitting the sides of the frame. I believe this replacement is kind of a case by case basis on which way you'd like to install i.e. if you have a aftermarket bumper that may need more room.

Ill probably end up taking it apart a few more times to see which way works best for my truck. I am definitely enjoying the lack of noise going over bumps. If only the brake pads wouldn't rattle so much over bumpy terrain.

Good luck!

 

I was thinking it could possibly be the needle bearing in the CV.......but I’m not a mechanic.