The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

No, no issues to date with either battery or the diode.

Original alternator, and I run my on-board fridge all the time, so the secondary battery is working as well.

I check the voltage once in a while while driving - both are steady 14+ volts, as expected.

What could be different in the GM diode? That really doesn't make sense.

 

Not sure if this would tell us anything and only do it if you’re bored hahaha.

I measured the capacitance of the diode (need to make sure you have the positive lead and the negative lead on the right legs; see picture below).

My DMM showed a capacitance reading of 0.470nF. Then I measured the resistance and it read about 1.95 megaohms.

All in all, I received the correct voltage when I was using it (hesitant to put it back in).

The GM diode part number is 12135037. The diode’s purpose was for a compressor after a quick google search.

Either way, I had my denso rebuilt this weekend with parts from a company called transpo. No idea if those parts are quality or not.

I rebuilt all my battery cables, installed a northstar pro AGM size 31M to run a Dometic 55IM all the time. I also have my 12V sockets in the front on all the time.

 

Can I rip the battery out and charge/desulfate out the vehicle???

 

Kinda a PITA, but yes.

 

So I found the problem. I replaced all my battery cables and the negative wire was just BARELY loose in the power distribution center. It would jiggle just enough to not make a good connection and throw the battery symbol on my dash. Definitely feel like an idiot, but it’s comforting to now know that the diode was never the problem. Finally stuck the MK3 HKElectric diode in and am sitting fine. Thank you.

 

so far so good with my 24F and the ford diode.

 

Those are the best type of problems to find.

Hard problems are difficult to solve!

 

After reading through this thread and ordering a battery and booster, and over a month for both to arrive, then installing new battery and rereading this thread, I discovered that I missed the one sentence that said the 3rd gens are not compatible with the boosters. So if anyone is interested in the MK2 Micro blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version) and doesn't want to pay shipping and waiting, I have one available still in the cardboard sleeve for retail price of $70 USD.

 

Yep i almost did the same thing 2 years ago, it is in there but it would be nice if it was on the first page.

PS; Im sure you can sell it,

 

It is…literally…..in…the original post

It is…in fucking bold

It is…under the heading voltage boosters, in fucking bold, in the original post.

Open your eyes

 

Well you know what they say about 3rd gen owners...

 

Never fucked up before or never admitted it? Seems harsh since it didn't involve you

 

Well if i remember right that was a NOT there when i read this back in the beginning over 2 years ago... Maybe, but i was reading this thread back when it was one page not 44 but to my remembering this was linked from another thread about the same thing back in 2017 and it was unknown if there was a way of doing this. SO maybe you could give some people a little slack...

 

I recently (yesterday) adjusted my voltage booster to the same setting as the OP shows in the 1st post as I was only getting about 14.2 volts prior to this adjustment.

After I was seeing 14.67v with my multi-meter and similar with the Bluetooth monitor.

This morning all was still great, then leaving a car wash I'm only reading 13.7v - 14.1v charging.

Wondering if boosting the voltage is killing my alternator.

I've got the OE 130 Amp alternator.

 

The voltage fluctuates based on engine temp. The highest voltage is produced when the engine is cold to recharge the battery after starting. As it warms up the voltage ramps down a bit

 

Yep, but a voltage drop from 14.67 to 13.92 and below is too much IMO.

Especially since it was charging between 14.5 and 14.7 consistently the whole day prior to the drop.

 

I've seen similar ranges on mine, I wouldn't worry too much. See what it's reading during the next initial start, you'll need many data points to get a consistent feel for how the VR performs over time with varying battery charge states and outside temperatures.

 

The system has a range of operation. The booster just raises where that range is. It doesn’t “fix” voltage at a certain level.

 

I appreciate the input! I'll do some more data logging and look at some adjustments if needed.

I'm very new to electrical systems so I'm still learning how all of this works! Threads like this are extremely valuable!

 

Does anyone happen to know how much more psi/ flow the fuel pump is putting out at the higher voltage?