Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

Tomorrow I'm picking up a set of 17x9's with these exact specs for my 35s this weekend. Starting trimming tomorrow hopefully.

 

@socalexpeditions well I pretty much got it thanks buddy. Pushed it as far up as it will go; drivers side is 0* camber and passenger is -1* camber which is actually okay because it pushes the truck to the left and compensates for road crown. Thing drives straight af and no rubbing

 

Glad I can help you out brother!!

Btw for other peeps having tracking problems: around .6 caster split will leave your truck tracking straight. Passenger side should be the higher one.

 

Got the fronts trimmed up. Took 2.5" out of the sheet metal, and 2" from the flare. Adding some edge trim to the flares when it comes in. Going to do the rears and then undercoat the front fender wells tomorrow.

 

Pro tip. Use an expo dry erase marker instead of a sharpie in case you mess up.

 

It was all taped off. But.. rubbing alcohol also will take off Sharpie.

 

Done done.

 

What did use for the trim?

 

Mixture of stuff. 30 tooth metal blade with my jigsaw for the main cuts in the sheet metal and plastic flares. Then I smoothed out the sheet metal with the angle grinder real quick. Did the final detail work with the Dremel on both metal and plastic fenders. Then I sanded the plastic flares to get a smooth line and flow before doing the edge trim.

 

I meant the black edge trim

 

Lol. Well shit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG41NXD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_5A8F1MWFK0XNZS0FCPTR?_encoding=UTF8

 

This thread has some great info and my next set of tires will be 35's for sure, but I have yet to see "good" solutions to removing the inner fender liner. im in a location where mud, snow, lots of water are common. ive seen how you can use the extra material from the metal fender to make anchoring points for a new liner, but what material should one be looking for? some type of rubber mat type material that can be cut and anchored to the fender tabs and side of engine bay above the wheel well , or puckboard that can be molded with a heat gun. anyone got some pics? or insight on a good material to work with?

Thanks for everyone's info and pointers in this thread.

 

Another option, On a 3rd Gen with the correct offset you don’t need to remove the liner.

 

well that sounds logical, what's this magical offset where you don't need to remove the fender liner or trim the fender/flare? I would have assumed people would have done that and not made a 65 page tread about cutting and trimming but you know what they say about assuming.

 

Before and after undercoating.

 

Around 4" backspacing.

 

Hey man sorry for the delayed reply. Was in Moab all weekend scraping my ass end around the place.

I'm rubbing on some pretty weird spots I've not seen others rub at. Take a look at this pic from the passenger side. Driver side is the same. Not sure if I should hit up the alignment shop and see what else they can do or just live with it. I've got -12 offset Ray 10's in case anyone was wondering.

 

I made these out of a sheet of 4x8 bathroom wall plastic. Some self tappers and L brackets. Then sealed it all up with seam seal.

 

Right now I am running 285/70/17s on 17x9 -12 wheels. Just got a cab mount chop done and don’t rub at all actually have a bit of room. I am thinking I have a couple options here in my quest to go up to 35s but am seeing some confusing info. A lot say 4 inch back spacing is perfect but I have seen a couple say there tires rub uca even with 3.5 inch back spacing. Is this a 35x12.5 issue vs a 315/70 issue? I am thinking I could switch to a wheel with 4 inch back spacing, or do a half inch bora spacer. Alternatively thinking about the 35x11.5x17 nitto mts. Same width as my currently tire just 2 inches taller. I know I have the space for the height and the width has not been an issue for me now. The nitto is taller than the 315 but I like the tire options a 315 would offer. Particularly hoping to get back in a toyo mt

 

Depends what UCA you have. JBA’s are known to stick out further than others.