What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I think @rob1208 does?

 

Finally installed the Spicer carrier bearing, felt good to replace something on my truck and it actually solve a problem for a change.

No more crazy highway vibrations from 60 - 70 mph

 

AC is giving some 36-38 degrees love back after this repair

 

There was a leak in the line a month ago, so all the fluid leaked out,
That was all replaced with new fluids and then I replaced the clutch and pulley and pulley bearing.

So it has the same dryer but new fluids and new clutch.
It’s never been this cold before that I remember

 

Thats ivan. I forgot his screen name tho

 

I tried to delete my post when I realized you never opened the system, just replaced the clutch. I’ve been told that 20 degree differential is good so 36 degrees must be phenomenal. My compressor has been making an odd sound like a cicada or locust whenever the clutch is engaged but it cools OK. Not great but OK and I’m just putting off the inevitable replacement of at least the compressor and drier. I would be thrilled to get results anywhere near what you did.

 

I made some bug screens for my shell. There far from perfect but seems to be functional. just have to finish the second one.

 

There is a VERY good chance that noise is just the clutch parts in the front of the compressor.
It’s a very easy fix and I was able to do it while the compressor was on the engine.
Did have to remove power steering mounting brackets to push the lines out of the way and skid plate.
You can buy a new compressor making sure it’s the exact same model and maker that the old one is
and replace parts from it and have the compressor as a backup when it goes bad.
Or buy
1) the clutch
2) the pulley ( with the bearing already pressed in)
3) the pulley bearing ( it needs to be pleased out and pressed back in for the new one.
Getting a complete flush and recharge with a new dryer will get you the lower cold numbers

 

Thanks for the tips. I’ve got the 2.7 so the compressor is relatively easily accessible from the engine bay. I replaced the idler and started to replace the clutch bearing but noticed it appeared the compressor was slinging oil so I stopped. Maybe I’ll go ahead and change the bearing and drier anyway, evacuate the system and recharge. Might save myself $200.

 

When I looked at my compressor originally I saw oil leaking out the front of it.
That’s why I bought a new compressor.
After taking the clutch out just for grins I saw that it was actually the grease leaking out from the pulley bearing that had exploded,
I had an appointment the following day for the compressor to be swapped out.
I got lucky and saved 100s

 

Anyone know how much lift tundra coils give? I’ve got my original tundra springs and I’m planning on using them on the new truck when it gets the frame...

 

That decides it. I’ll try the bearing first. If that cures the locusts when the clutch is engaged then I’ll do the evac and refill. Really need to squeeze peak performance out of my AC when it’s Hell hot here in Florida.

 

I’m suspicious of mine now too. I just made an 8 hour drive from San Diego to Sacramento and now I can hear the driveline squeak as I start to gas and then it goes away after a few seconds. How much physical play should be in the carrier bearing parked? I don’t think I have the 70 mph shakes like you said you did. It’s also never been replaced for as long as I’ve had it which is the past 80k currently at 280k. I know U-joints could also be the culprit but I’ve replaced 1-2 of those already.

 

I don't recall mine squeaking but then again my truck makes a lot of noises so... What sold me on replacing it was the tear in the bushing that started getting worse.

And after taking it off, you can see in the pic of the old one that it was starting to wallow out the center too.

Probably a good idea to change it out if it's still original for good measure. Took me a couple hours for the first time but Im confident I could do it in under an hour after that. It's pretty straightforward.

Recommend getting a new stake nut for the CB

 

Said good by to this guy thanks it’s been real.

 

P0442 AND PO446 codes popped up and my back blinker burned out. Bulb replaced and I threw in a new gas cap however I don't expect that to fix my codes but it would be really nice if it did

 

Changing inner and outer tie rods.




How much, if any grease/fluid should I expect inside the steering rack boot and on the rack itself?

 

Fluid would need to be getting past the seals in the rack for it to be there, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Doesn't look like much though in the second pic, but long term it might become an issue.

 

My steering rack looks similar to yours with the same sort of sludge on the shafts. I kind of always wondered about it, but I would say that the fluid on the right side of it is more of a problem

 

New front pads and rotors, and changed the oil. Good day working on the truck and not being in a rush.