Spark Plug Change

Does anyone know what the Dealership charge is to change out spark plugs?

 

Have you called them to get a quote yet?

 

They are easy to do yourself. I'm not a master mechanic by no means. But I was able to do it. One place quoted me (because I was lazy & didn't feel like doing it. Until they gave me the price) I think it was $150.

It was easy to do myself. Took me about 45 minutes. The drivers side was the most difficult.

 

Just wasn't sure how hard it would be. I do basic maintenance myself, but I have never changed out spark plugs. Other trucks I have had came with longer life plugs. Any advice on changing them myself?

 

very simple man. be sure to get some anti seize and put just a bit on the threads...and dont torque them down too tight....just snug them down, then maybe a quarter turn. the coil packs are easy as pie to get off too. you will need a couple of long extensions and a 5/8ths spark plug socket also.

 

but I do know that I have a set with 12K miles on them, ready to ship!

You pay shipping only!

They were removed when I installed the TRD S/C...

-6- Denso Iridium FK20HR11 (used 12K miles, like new, in box with thread covers)

 

NEVER do it when the engine is warm. Heat generally = softer metal = cross threading. Also, always start them by hand until they won't turn and then use a wrench.

 

I just too a peek at my engine before driving to work. I can see the coilpacks, but there's all kinds of sh*t in the way on the driver's side. Has anybody done a play-by-play with pictures on a spark plug change? I really want to add this to the list of things I can do myself, but I don't want to f-up my truck in the process.

 

Interesting. I've never heard of anybody stripping their head due to using sparkplugs that were installed in another engine prior, but the same model/type/brande etc. I've taken plugs out to examine them on other engines (13B Rotary) and reinstalled them with no issues.

These plugs were installed and then removed after ~12K miles.

 

It's pretty straightforward, make sure you have some extensions 6"/3" for your 3/8" ratchet, as well as a universal joint. I remember moving some of the vacuum hoses to gain access, just mark them and you should have no trouble replacing them.

Also, torquing the plugs: General rule for spark plugs - after they seat, 1/2 turn for plugs w/new washers, 1/8 turn for plugs w/o washers or reinstalling plugs, or about 14 lb/ft. I personally don't use anti-seize on the threads, some do, some don't. YMMV.

 

Us RX-7 owners know all about pulling plugs to check them!! If yours is an older one like mine, you do it almost as often as pulling the dipstick
Just make sure you don't get any Autolite spark plugs near that 13b...

 

Not that I am going to be doing this to my 09 anytime soon but I am so glad not to see any threads about "how to change #X plug". On my past couple of vehicles there were always one or more that required major tricks and/or luck to get at. For instance # 2 on my LT-1 Camaro. That one plug took me several hours to change last time. Not to mention dropping the y-pipe to get the rearmost plugs from below. And the dealer quoted 8 hours of labor for a plug change. On my old S-10 V-6 it was #3 being obstructed by the steering shaft, although mine wasn't as bad as most. Looks like the Tacoma will be a relative POC.

 

**shudder** plug change in LT1 Camaro....

 

One tool not listed in the write up is a telescoping magnet. I found it very useful to extract the plugs. I even used it on the install.

 

What is the gap space for our truck?

 

between .039 and .043.............set it at .040, and call it good. and dont forget a lil anti-seize on the threads.

 

I didn't see it posted elsewhere in this thread. Here you go.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/30479-how-spark-plug-change-1-gr-fe.html

This write up makes it seem harder than it is. If you have a really long extension like 18 - 24 inches it makes it VERY easy to do the drivers side. I did it in about a half an hour, but I have the use of air tools & wobbly sockets.

EDIT: Holy thread ressurection!!!! My bad.......

 

Another note: after you pull the cables off the plug, blow some compressed air around the plug to get rid of some dirt before you remove the plugs. This prevents any of that crap getting into the engine. I'm not sure if anyone alreayd mentioned, but use some dielectric grease on the cable where it connects to the plug...promotes a good electrical contact and prevents corrosion.