Front wheel bearing and hub assembly ?

There are fake Koyo (and other name brand) bearings all over the place. Some of them actually look pretty good. But let me ask you a question. Do you really think somebody would spend the money to make sure they actually perform as well as OEM? Simply said, there's absolutely no way they will last anywhere near as long. And the folks that say they installed cheap bearings and "they're great so far" after 500 miles, don't even get me started.

 

More correctly, they all said they were Koyo. I highly doubt they were - especially at O'Reilly.

 

So you are claiming a well known auto parts chain is selling fake knockoff products? Seems suspect...

Anyhow, I guess I'll never know for sure but I'll be able to tell you in another 100,000 miles how good or bad these are. And at least if the "koyo" goes bad before then I'll have a backup.

 

Do you really think Koyo would package their premium product in a plain white box? The number of fake products out on the marketplace is truly staggering. And most folks have absolutely no idea.

 

Well, either way you aren't answering my original questions at all so can we move on? I'll be putting on my "fake" koyo bearing/hub assembly so I'll let others know if it fails early/late/normal/whenever.

 

shit i payed 60 bucks for a hub assembly


so far so good

 

I think you’ll be fine.

I just did my other one from RA.
Didn’t even think to look what brand they used. All I know is, that’s what I was using. So I put them in.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ou-use-on-the-hub-bolts.722255/#post-25744012


I wouldn’t stress over it.

 

Started taking things apart and I think I know why my bearing died. The dust cap that covers the axle nut had a hole in it! Last year Toyota replaced my brake caliper on that side, and no idea how but they must have punched a hole through that cover? Anyhow, now I need a replacement before I can put things back together. At least the old one came off easily.

 

I replaced mine a month ago and I looked at all my options and went with NAPA and so far, it's fine. Why, because it was local and the lifetime warranty sucked me in. I did look at the bearing surface of one of the NAPAs' and didn't see any type of marking on it. So bearing is unknown. As far as China made goes, after performing 1st Article Inspection on Chinese machined components, it can be a hit and miss. Once they have the machining process down we rarely had an issue.

 

When you find a P/N and a source for the dust cap can you post it here?

 

I believe this is the one you need
Copy the part number and compare prices.

Part # 43514-28010

https://www.oemgenuineparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-grease-cap-4351428010?origin=pla

 

Appreciate it!

 

Debris past the dust cap does not reach the bearing. Nor is it necessary to remove it to replace the caliper. If the hole is small, I'd flatten the edges and put some JB Weld on both sides of the cap. Shoot, I'd even consider putting a piece of good quality duct tape, like T-Rex or Gorilla tape.

 

Yeah, my first thought was Gorilla Tape Waterproof.
That stuff sticks GOOD. My mother wrapped the water hose connection with that stuff.
I took my forever to get that stuff off. All it really needed was a new washer.
But she got the “drip” stopped.

I agree, the only way debris could make to the bearing is though the axle nut then seep down the axle. Unless the wheel is submerged in water higher than the the axle nut, I don’t see much of anything get to the bearings?

Some guys put a thin coat of RTV on the edge of the seal. I never have, but some guys do.
I don’t do deep water crossings and I don’t like mud.

 

I still am going to replace the cap with an unbroken one. And also not sure if this makes a difference but my old bearing didn't have the o-ring on the inside.

And yes, tnshooter posted the right part number.

Questions for people who have done this....

Should the axle splines have grease on them? There was a lot of red grease on it when I took the old one off. Was this from the bad bearing?

Also, should I put any grease around the axle but or inside the dust cap?

 

A thin coat shouldn’t hurt the spline.
I usually do this, but sometimes I don’t. (If I don’t have any)
A THIN coat. You don’t want grease on the threads where the axle nut goes.

As for the O-Ring. Yes, you need it.
Otherwise, water can get between the spindle and hud.
That’s more important than the dust cover.

 

I wouldn't use grease on the axle as it is difficult to apply evenly. I use film spray on all exposed metal parts. I prefer B'laster Corrosion Stop, but Amzn was out in my last order; I now have Fluid Film. Its the same stuff folks in the northern states spray on the undercarriage to prevent rust from road salt. The dust cap is already treated with anti-corrosion; I wouldn't spray it unless it is damaged and has rust already building up, but it won't hurt it.
Don't put grease on any rubber parts, especially O-rings. Use silicon or dielectric grease, which is not the same as regular grease.

 

If..... I use lube on an O-Ring.
I use this. But TBH, if the bearing is bad enough, don’t be surprised to find oil/grease residue has “weeped” out of the bearings. And ultimately makes it to the o-ring.

I’d be more inclined to lube the ABS sensor O-ring. That is the one that can get stuck. And it’s small, so be careful when removing and installing it.

Mine came out easy. If yours feels stuck, you might leave it in, and be extra careful installing the hub. You will need to drill it or punch it out, if it breaks off. And that means the the hub needs to come back off.

If you can, you should take the ABS Sensor out. But some guys have broken there taking them out. @Muddinfun i think had this happen to him?

 

Can anyone offer an explanation of why these front wheel bearings (or their hub assemblies) are failing relatively prematurely in many cases? My 2011 TRD Sport is now getting its third set on the front after 108k miles, after all four wheel bearings/assemblies were replaced (under warranty) at 40k miles. Below are some pics of the latest victim, front driver's side. This truck is a highway princess, and western Canadian winters, so relatively low salt and crud exposure. It appears that either the dust seal/o-ring combination isn't keeping anything out for very long considering the amount of pitting on the inner assembly and exposed bearing surfaces after only 5 years. Overall I wonder why I'd bother buying a more expensive bearing/assembly if it is the outer sealing that is the ultimate weakness and I will be replacing every 5 years.

Second question. Does Dorman do different bearings in the same hub assembly for different price points? I see Amazon sells a cheaper Dorman option (model# 950-001), and NAPA (Canada) sells a Dorman Part #: OES 77010691 for a lot more. The one in the pics below is a Toyota (Canada) warranty replacement with NSK bearing, which I assume is an OEM part?

Thanks in advance.

 

Are you replacing the inner and outer dust seal when doing the bearings?
One is on the CV axle the other is on back side of the spindle.
I do see the O-Ring , so we know it was installed.

I don’t replace the seals every time, but you SHOULD.
In your case, I’d definitely see if they have been done. It kind of looks like you may have water intrusion somewhere?