Reset my engine/transmission "learning"

Confirmation of A/F and idle learning through confirmation driving pattern.

 

A battery pull clears short term memory . Long term memory can only be cleared with a Techstream . I do Not suggest trying to clear long term memory while your vehicle is on warranty. Toyota is going to know you cleared it and may void your warranty

 

You just need to listen to the guys telling you to drive it like you want to now. Your "driving habit" learning is not some whiz bang amazing AI interface. It is a limited thing for a limited time period. Let me think of an example.... hmmmm... OK. Let's say you drive 25 mph for five hours straight. Then you drive at 70 mph for one hour. Your average is going to be 32.5 mph. Now let's say you drive at 70 mph for the next 100 hours. Now your average is about 68 mph. Follow me so far? good. If I went back and reset those five hours at 25 mph to zero your average would be 70 mph. Not resetting it took your average to 68 mph, not a big difference. This is what happens. As you continue to drive, it continues to learn and the averages get moved closer to your absolute habits.

 

I just did the reset and all values are at 0 but idle is around 600 when coolant is up to temp. Is this a big deal ? Running 93 octane. I have an A/T model

 

Anyone??

 

Id like to know if this is normal as well. I have not cleared mine bc I have no techstream but mine sits at about 600 and sometimes it idles real rough. Shakes the whole truck

 

While I agree that "just drive it" is probably the best advice so far, neither you, I or anyone else on this forum outside of Toyota engineering circles really knows how the "learning" works. I get that you tried to simplify your answer, probably to dissuade ppl from messing with their kit when it ain't required, but I doubt it's that simple.

 

All i can comment from this being my first tacoma. When i picked up my new truck from the dealer, it had less than 1 mile on the odo. I drove the 160 mile trip home, being not exactly thrilled the way the truck hunted on every slightest of grades. Well, i put up with it for over 1k miles till it suddenly began to get better. By 1500 miles it was nearly normal. At 9,500 now its perfect. I didn't do any of these crazy S,or ECT modes. I just put it in the D mode, and drove this truck normal. Imo, you need to be patient, and drive the truck the way i did so it learns your real driving habits according to the roads you travel.

 

Right on..
I have a manual, so no real dog in the fight.
But, why do you think S mode and ECT are crazy? Toyota put them there for a reason I would guess.
I believe you when you say you are happy with your truck BTW, not trying to be a dickhead. Just curious.

 

Just my opinion, but their useful for towing or carting heavy loads. The S mode works well also to save on the brakes when going down steep grades towing or caring a load. I use the S mode occasionally just for some engine braking down long hills. So far i've had little use for the ECT mode towing...its more for my 2k lb plus boat otherwise just sucks gas when pulling my 5x10 aluma utility trailer with less than 1k lbs in it.

 

Sounds reasonable to me.

 

My understanding, and the only thing that really makes any sense when you consider it, is the “learning” is a continual process, not a one time event.

 

Yea but I know it's some average over some time and it definitely is not instant. For example, sitting at a stop light would yield 0 mpg. Accelerating would be single digit mpg. Coasting down a hill could give you 99 mpg lol. My point is simply they do a mpg calculation every X seconds and after a certain time, average them together so you get Y output. It sorta has to be that way to show what we see, a gradual increase or decrease depending on environment and habits and not wild swings from zero mpg to 50 mpg to 5 mpg to 25 mpg. That is what we would see if it was an instant real time mpg.

 

No, it's not instant.. that becomes obvious if you reset learned values or flash a file to your ECM. Even with the M/T, it sometimes takes a tank of gas or more for everything to settle completely. I've personally made minor changes with vF tuner to dial in throttle response, liked the result, but found after a few hundred km that something went a touch in the wrong direction from a driveability standpoint.
One of the first things we learned from Mat is that the engine needs to learn idle airflow (see Splitbolt's post above). There are obviously other things going on when the engine goes "back to school", as sometimes the truck will drive like complete dogshit for the first approx 15-20 miles (this varies).
Where I think the complexity comes in, and this is just from reading Mat's explanation of the transmission shift logic/control, is the auto trans shift patterns and how they are affected by driver inputs.

 

Understood and agree, I am only talking about the mpg display and what puts those numbers up there.
How the mpg data point at a given time is derived is could be the 3rd derivative of a super complicated equation based on space time. My point and my only point is what shows up on that little screen is a bunch of those data points, taken over time, averaged together, divided by a fixed number (say a thousand) and then some of the earlier data points are dropped as new ones are added.
Then it displays the average of those data points. That's the only way it could work and get a smoothed display number that didn't jump all over the place. You know much more than me on how it got that actual mpg data point, but the only way to make the screen show what it does is an average over time and when you add a data point, the first data point is dropped.
If the previous data points are never dropped, eventually the number would never change!

 

The SFOB took about 3-4 tanks before it completely settled in. I did drive rough for the first 10-15 miles.

 

Just use S mode and bypass the learning crap all together.

 

Off topic but somewhat related I guess since we are discussing tacomas and how they work...does the tundra work the same way with the learning values and the transmission having 193948383 options to chose from to decide what gear to shift to?

 

I don't know for sure, but I'd bet money on yes.

 

Ive noticed ive had my truck for 4000 miles and ive mainly used sport mode or ect. When i try d mode I go back to ect real quick bc it shudders and bogs .feels.like total shit..ive wondered if I needed to let it be in drive for a few thousand and see what happens ......i wanna get my.lv and at cleared /reset first tho bc my idle is usually at 500 rpms. 700-800 like that page from splitbolt seems to make it feel.much smoother ...sometimes after driving and coming to a stop my truck shakes bc the rpm is so low....does it make sense to get ir cleared and then drivd in only d mode or driving in d mode alone might correct it over time?? Anyone have any experience with this?


Also do you know for sure that s mode prevents any type of learning?? Ive read people who dial in their tunes with vf tuner end up having it seem differsnt and not right 1500 miles later .I'm wondering if using vf tuner u could tune only the s mode part and have it dialed in perfectly that way to your liking and prevent the learning issue....to me s mode seems better butid like to learn exactly what it does.i know it can prevent gping into overdrive but does it also let the rpms go up 500 rpm per gear as ect? Any differences between ect and sport mode beaides preventing the upper gears would be good to know ...i apologize if all the questions are annoying or too off topic. If anyone knows a better thread for these questions to be in please.lmk. thank you