Otis24's Otisbound Outdoors Bodonkadonk Supercharged Twin Locked Micro Camper Build (OOBSTLMC)

Do you have a full picture of this setup? I’ve been looking for a way to store my spare axles

 

This padded box has worked out pretty well.
It has a couple problems. Everything falls over unless it's fully packed and it fits a little too well on the shelf it lives on. You have to remove it to get to it's contents.

Mrs @theed borrowed my sewing machine a little while ago. She made me these new padded boxes to replace my current one.
The new ones have velcro dividers so the contents will stay up right. They're full height at the back and short in the front. This way I can retrieve things with out pulling them out and if I do pull them out the full height rear wedges the box in place and keeps it horizontal with most of the box off the shelf.
These came out great.

 

I do.
It's in here: This is behind the driver side wheel well on the back of the camper.


Below you can see it all the way in the back circled in red. It worked okay for awhile. I'm having a hard time keeping both ends of the CV attached to the quick fists. I'm thinking a 3rd quick fist in the middle would be a good idea. It's a giant pain in the ass to put it back into the quick fist so i'm just letting it hang on one side. It's resting on my first aid kit which is in a pelican case.

The shovel and ax work amazingly well. I also keep my recovery gear in that space for quick access. Not visible in this pick on right is the heat exchanger for the shower system. To the left is an air tank, air compressors, blue seas fuse block, some spare parts and golf cart batteries.

 

I replaced the kitchen storage door's inside skin.
The old door was made of 1/16" FRP panel that was double sided taped to the door's frame.
It worked well until I melted it with my backpacking stove.


The door support was a piece of 3/4" aluminum tube I had leftover wedged between the door's latches and the tire. This worked okay until it didn't and all my stuff that was on the door would end up on the ground.


The original plan was to use stainless. I don't have a good means to cut stainless so I'd have to have a shop do it.
Or I could use a piece of aluminum I have left over from the camper skin.
So, I did that.
It's double sided taped in place like the rest of the camper.
For the support I bought a piece of chain and bent a link so it's adjustable. I already had the stainless eye bolt on hand. I used an M8 rivenut I already had to secure it to the door. The other end of the chain is attached to another stainless eye bolt that's secured to the wood of the cabinet by a T nut I had.

 

Thermostatic mixing valve works great.
32F to 104F.

I gotta clean it up and make it look neater. I might redo it in pex.

 

I haven't driven the truck much lately. I've been doing some things here and there to it but nothing worth noting.

The other day I noticed the camper batteries were a little low. Normally they sit at 12.7 or 12.8 volts or higher when the solar controller is charging them. They were at 12.55. They only get that low when I've had my electric blanket running all night.

I have a Ctek D250SA for my charge controller. It's a DC/DC charger as well as a mppt solar charger in one.
I have it set up with a 300 amp rated switch (that's about 10x what I need but I like how it functions) so I can charge my camper batteries or I can charge my starter batter. I made sure it was set to camper batteries.

The charge conroller had a flashing read LED light. This indicates there is a bad connection to the camper batteries.
I checked all the connections for tightness....all good.
I did a continuity check on all the wires going from the controller to the camper batteries and the starter batter and the swithc...all good.
I checked the Solar panels voltage output....19 volts at 9amps...good.
I disconnected all the wires except the solar panel wires. I ran new wires from the controller to the camper batteries...no effect.
I finally emailed Ctek tech support asking for help late Friday afternoon. I most likely won't hear back until Monday.
I'm like wtf?

The flashing light is the circled one.
I also worked on eliminating the dust leak where all my electricals are. It's super dusty in there. Granted this is from like 3,000 miles of dusty desert dirt roads.

 

I need to put a solar system on my shell, I've had to run my truch several times to keep the battery charged. I hope you get it figured out.

 

What battery set up do you have?
What are you running off it?

 

I have an AGM up front and a lead acid in the rear. I discovered this weekend that my refrigerator will drain my auxiliary battery pretty quick, less than12 hours. So I need to come up with something that can at least maintain the auxiliary battery while I am doing my military training each month.
I also have a set of LED lights, USB ports for charging my phone, HAM radio and a roof exhaust fan on that battery.

 

How big is your battery? 12 hours is pretty quick all right. I think my Edgestar fridge draws about 3-5 amps whenever I'm paying attention. You don't need much solar as a battery tender as long as you park it charged up.
Maybe put a switch on the battery so you can just have it disconnected? Or does the fan run when you're away for the lead acid battery?

I went way overboard. 200 watts of solar and 115 usable ah. My golf cart batteries weight 120 pounds!
My usual routine after a trip is unplug the fridge, clean it, prop the lid open and leave it until the next trip. Well...I never unplugged it. The thing ran for a week in 90 degree weather with the lid open and the batteries were only drained a little.

 

It's fixed!
Turned out to be a blown internal fuse.
The internal fuse is soldered in place so I soldered in a new one.

 

Any idea what could have caused the fuse to blow?
Seems to me that would point to somewhere else down the line. Or maybe heat?

 

Actually the fuse blew again.
It’s a 30 amp fuse.
I’m thinking it’s something down the line. I’ll add another inline fuse, maybe like 25 amps so I won’t have to deal with the fuse inside the charger.

 

Spontaneous camping trip down the coast with a good friend.
Edit: I have to say traveling with a vehicle that’s getting 50mpg and goes 0-60 in 4 seconds is pretty nice.

 

My next camper -

 

So I went and checked my auxiliary battery after a charge, which barley passed. Then I let it get run down to 12 volts and checked it again and it failed.
I went and purchased a 105 AH deep cycle battery and went on an 800 mile four day off-road trip. Battery worked great! Overnight with the fridge running in 100+ degree weather, the battery never dropped below 12.8 volts. And my Blue Sea ML-ACR Automatic Charging Relay seemed to be working better than it ever has.
I still want to put some kind of a solar system on my shell to help maintain the auxiliary battery on drill weekends when the truck sits for a few days.
I'm looking at two 130 watt flexible panels and a Renogy Adventurer 30A Charge Controller, not sure if this is overkill or not though.

 

i just put a 100w flex panel on the roof of my camper and it’s more than enough to keep my Northstar 31M battery topped off without starting the truck. It keeps my 51L fridge running 24/7 without issue now.

Note that my battery needs replacing. Normally my battery is dead after 20 hours without starting the truck with just the fridge running but now with solar, I’ve left it for a week and the 100w panel has been more than enough to keep it going.

 

Thank you for the information. All the solar calculators I found didn't have an input for dual charging, such as when the engine is running.

 

130 watts is more than enough for keeping the battery topped off.

If your truck is parked near an electrical outlet you could plug in a battery tender and forgo the solar.

I have 200 watts of solar and 115ah of usable battery (230ah total).
I accidentally left the fridge propped open in 90 degree heat for a week and my batteries were down to 12.5 volts.

I can also run an electric blanket that draws 6 amps all night.

 

Added an AFR/Boost gauge and a gauge holder for the 2nd gas tank.