Cooling issues? Not anymore

the part of this i find interesting is that if its a fan issue or failure then you should be having issues at idle. fans are basically not even need (maybe a tiny bit) above 45mph. you having the issue at highway speeds leads me to think there is a coolant flow issue or a air blockage in the rad.

 

to all watching the thread we are working thru the situation. we are not seeing any amount of coolant flow and are working to figure out what is wrong.

 

Thanks John.
Still letting it cool down to start checking for blockage.

 

In a future emergency, unplug the temperature sensor wiring to achieve a “poor man’s” override: A functional Lingenfelter will recognize the fault and run the fan at 100% command.

 

Looks like a nice piece. I havent had any cooling issues with my current 21 or my 16 but that doesnt mean I wont. Ill def look into this after warranty is up. Anything to keep things cool in North Texas Heat.


And your Camaro sounds like it's amazing.

 

Good to know. Most likely going back to stock fan. Cant find out the issue I am having fan wont run when it should be. Runs fine until truck is fully warmed up then the fan cycles on and off. Not supposed to do that. Called Lingenfelter they said controller looks to be working fine so is the sensor they think the fans bad. No way to fix it without completely changing everything. I am not buying it a second time. Just going back to stock. John has been excellent helping trouble shoot and finding part numbers. Hell I even replaced my thermostat. I have the 1 in a million that has a gremlin in it.

 

Damn man! Bummer

 

Interesting. I only made it through the first 10 or 11 pages, but where is that temp read from? Like is it a new probe, or does it use OBDII to read the actual water temp?

 

New probe spliced into the upper hose

 

Anyone know the torque setting for the nuts that hold the stock fan clutch?

 

Do y'all know of any one running this set up with a boosted (supercharged) rig?

 

@MESO

 

I’m running this kit with the magnuson charger.

 

How is it working for you? I'm about to do the Magnuson.

 

It’s working well. Feels like throttle response improved a bit and my AC feels colder.

 

OP or anyone else know of a way to wire the fan so it’s not on when engine is off and ignition is on, like to listen to the radio sometimes when parked without having to hear the fan whine and soaking up battery voltage.

 

I usually trip my circuit breaker, but I rarely run into those situations.

 

Regarding sensor location: I am in full support of installing the sensor near the radiator outlet, and here is my reasoning: The need for the fan is contingent on current conditions, and if the radiator alone is providing adequate cooling, or not. If the ambient is below zero, but your sensor is on top, then you are running the fan without any need (in all likelihood). Consider the following:

There is plenty of comment that you do not want to be constantly cycling the T-stat or it will prematurely fail: I personally don't see this as an issue. The T-stat regulates the amount of heat kept in the engine. So as the Engine Entering Water Temperature (EEWT) drops, flow thru the engine is reduced, maintaining target internal engine temperature. If it is below zero out, then the EEWT is typically extremely LOW, but no problem, the T-stat maintains (reasonably close) target engine temperatures. If T-stats fail due to excessively cold EEWT, then T-stats must fail OFTEN in Canada? I agree this has some merit; but clearly indicates that wearing out the T-stat is not a factor for outdoor temperatures during the other 3 seasons.

I think the T-stat is more than an on-off switch, as it is Bi-Metal controlled, so how open or closed it is is likely dependent on the temp. of fluid passing thru it. The T-stat likely, has a temperature where it begins to open, and requires a higher temperature for it to fully open; thus reducing cycling to smaller movements. Of course it remains fully open at temps. above full open.

With concern for Oil temperatures, oil temperatures take longer in winter weather, but again, despite extreme Low EEWT, the T-stat maintains engine operating temperature, and the oil does (eventually) come up to proper temperature, so EEWT is a not really an issue for Oil Temperature; at least not for the other 3 seasons.

If you really believe that you can wear out the T-stat if your fan settings are too low (equating to low EEWT); then how do you compensate for changes to Outdoor Temperature when it is below zero? By only monitoring temperatures leaving the engine, your settings MUST cater to preventing overheating on the Hottest day, for your most extreme situations. So therefore, Aren't you running the fan and driving EEWT needlessly lower under all other conditions? Under normal driving situations, is this not creating the T-stat cycling that you want to avoid? And this same logic also applies to concerns for oil temperatures. Best to not run the fan, unless conditions warrant it.

So as I see it, the advantages of having the sensor monitor EEWT (instead of Engine Leaving Water Temperature, ELWT) are:
- Stabilizes EEWT to a considerable extent (Does not leave EEWT up to chance and changing environmental conditions)
- Is pro-active by regulating EEWT (instead of reacting to elevated temperatures Leaving the Engine)
- Takes full advantage of natural cooling (ambient air temperature, radiator size and air flow without fan)
- Reduces electric load
- Minimizes lower than necessary EEWT
- Possibly extends life of T-Stat
- (somewhat) reduces length of time for oil to reach operating temperature
- reduces noise (fan)
- Possibly extends the operating life of the electric fan (will run less often/lesser fan speed)

Possible disadvantages:
- slight lag in responding to surge of higher ELWT (sudden heat generating load, like passing a car) Not yet shown to be problematic.
- Reduces the improvement to AC cooling operations (unless alternate controls are added, specific to AC demand)
- Less fan noise? (maybe you like it)
- Possible higher under hood temperatures (but if EEWT is cool, then under hood temp. and airflow is most likely adequate already)

I have read this entire thread, and others on this topic, to arrive at the above. Interested in what others think.

I am working out how I to proceed with controlling the fan on my vehicle. There is still much to consider, but this post is too long already.

 

Nice summary. I think you hit all the points, AC is a big one. It’s basically worthless without some airflow.

 

You may have stated this (if so, which page is it on), but what is the HP and torque gain by removing the engine fan? Thanks