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P285/70R17 VS E285/70R17 HELP!

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by VANGUY24, Jun 9, 2021.

  1. Jun 9, 2021 at 3:25 PM
    #1
    VANGUY24

    VANGUY24 [OP] Member

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    can someone who has had experience with both SL and E-rated tires on their trucks help me make the right choice. I drive about 80% on road 20% off and am upsizing to 285/70r17. I have read E rated tires are overkill but don't want to run into a flat while off-roading with p rated. I do tons of city driving for work but want the bigger tires for off-road capability and obviously looks. I will be getting the falken a/t3w if that helps, thanks in advance for any advice:)
     
  2. Jun 9, 2021 at 3:42 PM
    #2
    aleriance

    aleriance Well-Known Member

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    Jorge
    Naples, FL
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    CMC 285/70/17
    I've ran SL, then E, now C.

    I will never run a pair of E's again even if they were free. Way too stiff - like a wooden roller coaster.

    I would even argue that my current C loads are overkill but worth the little extra roughness in ride for extra piece of mind to me.

    There's several C load tires in 285/70/17. I'm running BFG KO2. They are the lightest out of all the options in that size as a C.
     
  3. Jun 9, 2021 at 3:48 PM
    #3
    Marshall R

    Marshall R Well-Known Member

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    I've had both, you'll probably be better off with the P series tires. Over the last 40+ years of driving I can't recall ever having a flat with an E rated tire and I've had a few with P rated tires. In fact I've had a couple damaged so badly they couldn't be patched so an E rated tire will be tougher. But unless you are really into hard core off road driving the negatives may offset the positives.


    One big difference is initial cost. Expect to pay about $100 more for a set of tires if you go with the E rated tires

    The E rated tires in the same size will be 10-20# each heavier. Usually right around 15#. You'll get a lot of responses claiming this weight kills fuel mileage. That has not been my experience as long as everything else remains the same. If you're comparing the same tire, in the same size, and the only difference is E vs P ratings I've never been able to note a measurable difference in fuel mileage. Yes it takes more power and fuel to get the heavier tire moving. But once in motion it doesn't take any more power, in fact in theory the heavier tire will maintain speed better than a lighter tire.

    You will see reduced fuel mileage with either tire compared to stock. When you go to a larger, wider tire with a more aggressive tread those factors do reduce fuel mileage. When most people move to an E rated tire they also go bigger, wider, and more aggressive and then blame the lost fuel mileage on weight.

    Ride quality will suffer because of the added weight working on the suspension as well as a stiffer tire. But air pressure plays a big part in this. E rated tires are designed for heavy duty trucks with GVWR at 10,000# or more. When you put them on a 4000# Tacoma you don't air them up nearly as much as you would on a 3/4 ton diesel pickup. Get the PSI right and the ride isn't nearly as bad as many claim.

    The biggest negative for me was slower acceleration. It does take more power to move or accelerate the heavier tires . Going back to lighter tires gave my trucks noticeably more pep when accelerating or merging onto the interstate. But fuel mileage remained the same.

    To me C rated tires are neither fish nor fowl. They don't offer any more tire protection than P rated tires and in the same size are rated for less weight than P tires. They just cost more. Of course many of the more aggressive tires are only available in LT sizes. If you stay with a P rated tire you have fewer choices for aggressive tires. The Falken's are one of the more aggressive P rated tires.
     
    shotgunbilly420 likes this.
  4. Jun 9, 2021 at 4:03 PM
    #4
    VANGUY24

    VANGUY24 [OP] Member

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    I really appreciate the in-depth write-up, helps a lot. I guess the way I see it is even that additional 8-10 lbs per corner does not seem necessary for me. For example, i have taken my trd or dcsb off roading countless times now and even though the grip of the stock goodyears is terrible IMO i am very confident in the durability of an SL. i guess i will try out the SL wildpeaks and if something goes wrong....start over again..
     
  5. Jun 9, 2021 at 5:02 PM
    #5
    Dank Donkeh Luvver

    Dank Donkeh Luvver Well-Known Member

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    If you are super worried about sidewall tears or something, get from discount tire and pay the ~$11 for the tire certs and get a free replacement if you tear them, no questions asked.
     
  6. Jun 9, 2021 at 5:06 PM
    #6
    charliehex

    charliehex I belong in the dirt.

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    285/70/17C BFG All Terrain TA KO2 Method 701 - Bronze 3”F/1"R Spacer Lift Sprint Booster MESO: Gasshole, Map Lights, Sequential Turn Signals Rough Country: Speedometer Calibrator, F/R Seat Covers R4T: Tail Gate Remote Rago: Center Console Molle Panel sPOD: Switch Controller Lamin-x: Amber Fog Light Covers ARB: Twin Compressor Slee Off Road: ARB Twin Compressor Mount Expedition Essentials: 3TPAM Accessory Mount RAM Mounts: Short, Long, Long arm, GoPro Mount
    E are a ride nightmare because they have more plies. They’re heavier duty for loads, which our trucks don’t usually handle, or for airing down way low. If you don’t need to do either of those things go with LRC. That’s what I have and run them around 19 psi off road, 40 highway.
     
  7. Jun 9, 2021 at 5:09 PM
    #7
    shotgunbilly420

    shotgunbilly420 OG Owner 249+ mi club/Tacoma enthusiast

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    315/75/16, 6in modded RC lift,Anderson Engineering manifold spacer,K&N air intake, URD YPipe, stock exhaust ,16" method nv305 wheels, AFE throttle body spacer, vf Tune program, JTL 3.0 Oil catch can x2, rear cat delete
    Very well said
     

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