Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

You can come and give mine a spin, I'm on 4.88's with the SC and 33's.

 

So the trans won’t hold 5th up slight hills with all the new low end torque? That was most of my justification…

 

What size tires and extra weight do you have? (If any) And your typical elevation?

 

May just have to do that.

 

I’m on stock tires with about 200lbs extra weight and at 3500 ft elevation

 

(2016 TRDOR V6 SBDC AT, 4.88, stock tires, 6112/5160, Maggy SC)

Just came back from a 800 mile round-trip camping trip from base 6200 ft over mountain passes of 10,000 ft plus. Towed a camper (2250 dry weight) and a few hundred pounds of stuff. Maintaining speed limit was no problem. Truck ran cooler (transmission pan and converter, and radiator) than same trip last year when truck was NA we had a lighter camper (1700 lb dry weight). Used S mode and locked it down to 4th on long grades up Eisenhower and Vail (both directions out and back). About 3500 rpm - plenty of power as that is middle of boost (probably 8 psi). 60 to 65 mph with no issue, and able to pass without downshift. Magnuson SC made it run way better - totally different machine - no engine struggling noise (valves or other). Could not run it in s mode allowing 5th on grades - it does the oem monkey shift - so just locked it out when that began to happen. Something Magnuson will eventually fix with tune revisions. Averaged 18mpg while towing - trips btwn Palisade and Montrose/Delta not towing we averaged 23 mpg at 65 mph (pretty sure they are on Summer blend gas now which is way better for power and mpg than the Winter blend shit still being served here in Denver proper). Hands down much better than the NA engine setup.

 

I believe 4.88 is the way to go, will be getting some ECGS drops ins shortly, thanks everyone for the detailed responses!

 

Magnuson got the replacement nose cone to me. Well actually I got it to me. They shipped it without checking with me so it went to my address I just moved from. I let them know the second they created the shipping label, but they didn’t bother to email me back until it was out for delivery. So I had to drive back to Oklahoma and scoop it off of someone else’s doorstep lol.

Either way I installed the part. It involves removing the front nose cone, drive belt, pulley, top cover, supercharger supports, throttle body. It wasn’t really hard, but it is a pain if you have the older kits like mine that use rtv to seal the top cover instead of a gasket. Cleaning the old sealer, and resealing sucks. Especially since you are supposed to let rtv cure 24hrs…


Pretty oily even with a catch can.

Here is the faulty part. Actually it’s probably the bearing at the front. The “rust” seems to be some kind of lubricant. It is not gritty. More powdery and oily. EDIT: at closer inspection the rusty color is bronze dust from the coupler failing it seems.



an Easter egg behind the bypass

done! Noise seems to be gone. AFR is still about 11.9 at boost. Vacuum is sitting at 20inHG. I’ll check closer for leaks after a day or two.

 

wow. great thread!

So this happened to me.....was driving home on the highway doing about 75-80 (toll lane so I speed). I went to pass a slow car and I revved it up to kick in the SC and immediately pulled around. Then the engine literally sputtered and I had no control of the pedal. It was a dead pedal (gas) and the lights lit up, engine light was flashing, the cylinders sounded like a misfire and I cruised to the shoulder.

I turned it off and restarted the engine and all was fine. Drove home gently of course.

So.....is this a tuning safety feature or something? It's been a week and no issues and drive normal.

 

Not on the fuel pump recall?

 

no notice yet but need to address that for sure

 

Could be that you over boosted, wastegate could have been stuck closed upon your aggressive pedal movement, the increased pressure in the intake manifold probably tripped a sensor, over boost will typically force a vehicle into limp mode until fixed. When you shut off the vehicle the wastegate probably unstuck itself and purged as it should, effectively resolving the problem upon the next start up.

Just a thought though, makes sense to me, check the retrieval spring on the waste gate, could have been a one off issue.

 

I really didn't know where to check afterwards, but I'll check that spring as you said!! Thanks.

 

There is no spring, you don’t have a wastegate. And there is no way you overboosted unless you got a smaller pulley. I’d be looking into the fuel pump.
Check your codes too and see if anything pops up.

 

Oh sorry, your "bypass actuator"

 

believe it or not, I did understand what you meant. It's the small can just to the right of the SC. lol. we understand each other when we don't know the name of something! hahaha. I have an appointment to get my recall done next Tuesday! woohoo.

 

Got it! I'll go check codes in a little bit. thanks godfather!

 

The bypass doesn’t work like a wastegate. When you are at full throttle it always lets ALL of the air go to the supercharger. You can actually drive with the bypass valve blocked, forcing all the air to go to the supercharger. A lot of people do this at the drag strip as it slightly help throttle response.

a malfunctioning bypass would only make you under boost. Never overboost.

 

This^

Plus there isn’t a Manifold Air Pressure sensor.

 

Thanks for the info gents, good content, detailed and world shattering. Is there not a method to calculate load on the engine then if there's no MAP or is the Barometric Pressure Sensor included within the MAF? Like it is on the 2nd Gen?