What are you paying for your 2021 Tacoma? (price thread)

Sweet, a water bottle!

Those are for extended warranties, correct?

 

Haha. Love a good water bottle. And yes sir, extended warranties. Here's actually the quote I received:

"Here’s all the basic info and quotes:

Vehicle: 2018 – 2021 Toyota Tacoma; (Within 36 months / 36,000 miles).

Toyota Extra Care, Platinum coverage with $0 deductible:
4 yr / 125K - $790.00
5 yr / 100K - $765.00
5 yr / 125K - $915.00
6 yr / 75K - $645.00
6 yr / 100K - $895.00
6 yr / 125K - $1140.00
7 yr / 75K - $715.00
7 yr / 100K - $1025.00
7 yr / 125K - $1250.00
8 yr / 75K - $835.00
8 yr / 100K - $1145.00
8 yr / 125K - $1505.00
9 yr / 100K - $1265.00
9 yr / 125K - $1665.00
10 yr / 100K - $1360.00
10 yr / 125K - $1795.00

Most of the details on the Extra Care plans can be found directly at
Toyota's website at the following link, including all the various terms and
options available, just let me know if you would like a quote on a different
plan.

https://www.toyotafinancial.com/us/en/vehicle_protection_plan/vehicle_service_agreements.html "

This is directly from the email.

 

Ahhh, so no additional routine services...I'll take the low risk I get stranded in the first 125k.

I absolutely abused my '99 Tacoma and it didn't start stranding me until the effects of said abuse started manifesting @ nearly 200k.

 

Which is a very good point. You should've heard the dealership telling me yesterday how, "crazy it is to even think you can trade in a vehicle that's 4 years old for only a couple thousand dollars less than you bought it for." I smirked and said, "Thank God I bought a Toyota, right?".


Did you got from a '99 Tacoma to a 2017 Tacoma? That's my goal to drive my current one for that long

 

For Toyota those electronics last just as long too, the dealership scared me too telling me how expensive those electronic sensors and goodies, well...
My 2017 Avalon's equipped with TSS and all the bells and whistles. I live in Texas so the heat is brutal but they still hold up after 120k miles, everything works every time. The only thing that broke in Avalon at 90k miles was the water pump, which is mechanical.
On the other hand, the blind spot monitor on my new Miata randomly malfunctions probably 3 times in the first year.
I have to say Toyota is solid man even when it comes to finicky electronics

 

Haha yup! One of the reasons I went ahead and put a deposit on a '21.

Agreed, when I traded in my '99 the salesman commented that it probably had 2 CPUs in it and the '17 probably had >20. I don't lose sleep over the electronics but they are in the back of my mind. My '99 had 296k on the "body" clock when we parted ways. But full disclosure: in college I did a lot of doughnuts in the field in front of my rental house. Over heated the engine a couple of times, rolled it onto it's side another night. Eventually had to replace the header, later the exhaust manifold and eventually the whole engine. Second motor went in in ~'08-09 w/ 119k on it while old one had ~160k. After that I grew up & babied the thing. I had planned/wanted to see 250+ on the '17 (I bought used in '18 with 18k on it) but there are some things I wanted that my '17 doesn't have, I have a lot of equity the '17 at this point, I can afford essentially extending my payments a couple years and I want to be happy in it. Those wants will make me happy.

 

I chuckled when the finance guy tried to spook me with the annual Maine inspection requires the back up camera to work or the vehicle will fail. What will we do?! Oh, there is a mirror...

 

Haha that's incredible on that '99, love to hear stories like that about these trucks.

I was essentially in the exact same boat on my '17. Had good equity in it and wanted some of the added stuff my '21 has. After completing the transaction yesterday, I feel I made the right decision and I bet you'll feel the same.

 

A water bottle is better than a bottle of water!

 

Looks like he's doing 84 months.. and at 22, I think he'd be hard pressed to find a better interest rate. I guess it can't hurt to check if it's within 30 days of his first credit pull.

Even with his down payment, he will be upside down for a while from a trade in perspective. Yes the market is crazy, but who knows for how long.

I'd go with the recommendation of overpaying your loan for the next year to help you get clear from being "upside down" in case you need to sell or trade it in. Interest is the most expensive in the beginning vs at the end. For example, with your current 84 month timeline, your first month's payment of $555 has $190 going to interest, 365 going to principal (vs your last month's payment has 2 going to interest and 552 going to principal). How much you overpay is up to your circumstances, but look into amortization tables to help you figure out how much the principal is going down with how much you overpay per month.

 

Hey, I am with bank of america and when I get the official vin number now that my truck has been built I was going to go ahead and apply through them before walking into the dealer at the end of this month. Before I found found truck I wanted, I applied to them without knowing the vin number or vehicle, essentially just knowing how large of a loan I wanted. I was not pre approved due to the lack of past credit history. For background I am almost 25, but I've had a credit card for almost 10 years and have always paid it off. My score is almost 800 but of course it was my only line of credit until recently and I've had zero history of previous loans or debt. Do you, or anyone else in this forum who have more wisdom think once I give them the official vin number, and then they can compare how much I'm asking versus how much the actual truck costs, to see my down-payment and make a better call?

If they still don't approve me does anyone know of other banks or avenues giving solid rates? I really want to be around 3 and not more than 4%

 

I don't think you can be picky without a car loan to your history. I believe you have a different auto FICO score than the 800 listed.

Try credit unions or dealer's choice.. but you may find that a cheaper car/truck loan may have to do to build up history.

 

Right, I mean I really don't know exactly what they look for. I'm not sure if they really would have two different FICO score categories but who knows I guess. I think its probably because I don't have any large history besides credit card payments for that long.

 

I started my first auto loan on manufacturer's financing, they seem very eager to seal the deal and offer great rates and approve high amount for first time auto loan. After that, it's almost too easy to buy a car these days if you finance it.

I don't think there's any APR incentive right now for Tacoma but dealership should be able to hook you up with rates under 3% 60 months

 

Thanks for the information. Yeah if I do finance through toyota I can also cash in the recent graduate offer.... I mean its only 500 bucks so not worth getting a worse APR rate or anything. The dealer I'll be buying from says they work with a total of 13 banks/credit unions as well. Hopefully it's not fluff and they will have something. I am for sure going in for 60 months and no more.

I more so just want to be prepared going in. I've done really well so far educating myself before the over all deal. Don't want to skip a beat when finalizing finance.

 

Google Penfed auto refinance

 

Anyone recently purchased a TRD off-road in Massachusetts. 2021? I’m going to look at one on Saturday. MSRP is like 39,800. But I’m also trading in a built 2017 Tacoma!!! I’m hoping they will take at least $1000 off the price and give me hopefully 29 to 30 for my trading

 

If you are looking to get the absolute most out of your deal Then takeoff all the mods. Bring it back to stock. Sell it on Carvana unless the tax credit differential in your state makes it worthwhile to trade in but usually not the case. Then sell the mods on Craigslist. From what I’ve seen Carvana gives you more than Kelley blue book private party which is usually about 2500 over Kelley Blue Book trade-in value. But they only want stock vehicles. They give you less if it has mods