Turbo BS Thread

Right now stopping is the least of my worries... it was understeer city today. I'm going to have to figure out how to get it to not understeer quite so bad. It also needs a new set of tires after all the abuse over the last couple months. I'm looking at stepping up to a 295 tire so that it's not stretched on the wheel like the 275 is.

 

How wide are your wheels?

 

18x10.5 with -12mm

 

How is your truck set up as far as height front to rear? If you add a tiny bit of rake to the front end you can get it to bite a little better if that is even possible based on your current height.
And with a 10.5 wheel you can get a 295 on it no problem.
Im going to have to try and get a 315 or larger in order to make my horsies stick. I have 10.5" wheels on the rear of my Camaro and it also has 275 rears but its mini-tubbed so I can fit a 12" rim back there pretty easily now and since that's going twin turbos next month I will have to get going on that project as well.

The sad part is gas is over $4.50 per gallon here now, thanks to a senile gentleman that "runs" things, lol.

 

Damn! That's a dollar more than what premium is here.

 

I rear swaybar will be the best solution for reducing/eliminating understeer. There are/were a couple companies that I found years ago that had offerings for the Tacoma. Helwig was one if memory serves, and I don't recall the other.

 

So my plan is to 3 or 4 link the rear with QA1 coilovers to really control the rear axle and ride height. I don't want to be on a 3 inch block with 500hp trying to twist it out from under me.

 

I know some of the LT ppl that are running links have put swaybars on their trucks.

 

Same, $4.50/gal is nuts.

El Paso is averaging $3.29 - $3.55 /gal which isn't entirely unheard of anyway. Not common, but not wild or never seen.

 

Addco is the other brand. There are some Aussie companies that make them as well. Cannot remember the name/s though.

 

No good turbo updates. Mine nor PreRunner. Only thing recently on it, was running the oil feed line. I really do like the Mishimoto, or similar, oil sandwich plate for a feed source, on the 1GR.

 

Was watching the latest Mighty Car Mods last night. Their dyno specifically had a very interesting point. Something also resonated emphatically by Gale Banks, in his engineering and YouTube videos. The MCM Bimmer under hood heat saturation causing IAT's to be crazy high. Robbing horsepower. Their LS modded Bimmer picked up around 40 whp, with just opening the hood and rotating the intake up to get a much cooler air.

Being that my intake temps are 35-45 degrees higher than ambient on my Bimmer, it has bothered me for a few years. I know there are hp to be had, if those temps could be lowered. I tried something a few days ago, to see if there was the ability to lower them.

First off, I applied the PTP thermal tape to the exterior of the OEM intake box. There is no significant cross flows of air, to aid in removing heat from the surround of the intake box, so covering the whole of the box was fine.



I also added an air damn to funnel colder air from the teeny tiny grill, to the opening of the intake. Apparently there was one at one time, but that was prior to me taking ownership.





I am going to add on an extension piece, and add some thermal tape to the back side of that panel.

As it is, with 105° F road temps yesterday, the air temp was 129° cruising, and 122°F when opening the throttle more. Nearly instant a drop, while accelerating. Nearly instantly the jump back, when the throttle closed back to the cruising position. That is quite significant for what little has been done. Approximately 20° drop, over how it was.

 

Had I gauges or the Banks Power devices to measure the Absolute Air density, and Manifold Air Density, I would be able to get a close idea of how much power is being lost by those temps.

On that note, the 2nd Gen Tacomas, with OEM I takes and most aftermarket intakes, drop down to just above ambient when cruising. Within a few degrees. As a note of their differences in engine bay heat, and airflows/source of air.

 

The point of all of that is, since this is a turbo thread, our engine bays have potential to create tons of heat.

Keep an eye on those IAT's.

 

Look into a water/methanol injection setup. Never worry about IATs under boost again.

 

Hey not turbo related but I'm 6 subs away from 1k on my cooking channel, and would appreciate a sub if you aren't already... And thanks if you already are

 

Saw an old vw bug with a centrifugal SC today at a guys shop I was treating. Said it was putting a little over 200 hp to the ground and had 4 carbs on it lol. I was like "I thought that thing had a turbo on it and then I saw the rubber band"

 

That would have been cool to see. It gave me a memory of people them on the Autoban. Loose handling and easy to roll over. Tons of fun to watch. Lol

 

I still can’t figure out why you would ever go for a centrifugal supercharger. It’s a laggy sc or a turbo that steals hp. All of the worst qualities of each. If you can’t fit a sc, you can fit a turbo

 

Well with that rear engine and they weren't running a hood so they had plenty of real estate. I still be that sucker is a blast to drive. As much or more power as a stock 1 gr in half the weight. The guy seemed to have more money than sense; massive lake house, then a big lot across the street with a shop as big as his house and was in the process of building another beside it half as big. Jeeps, 4 wheelers, dirt bikes, and side by sides galore