Issues with Tacoma 3rd Gen Clutch

FI rush. i actually bought mine when OV started talking up the TT possibility on the 3rd gens, and it sat on my garage floor for like a year or more just so i would have it. he'll bring them back around asap.

 

Thx, I'm most likely going to buy one and do the ADM and perhaps the fj pedal, still trying to figure it out. Did you get a new flywheel? I've got only 7500 miles on my truck, so don't know if it's worth getting a new flywheel if not needed.

 

the only reason you would want a new fw at your mileage is to opt for the heavy one because you tow, haul, crawl, or whatever. for normal use i suggest keeping your stock fw and get it resurfaced at install time. definitely do not skip resurfacing if you keep it. it's a great combo. mine was resurfaced at 60k when i did all that, would do again for sure.

 

Thx I may get it resurfaced, I've read of some weird shift feel with the heavier flywheel for normal driving.

 

i saw that, also seen similar comments about the stage 3. my experience is the package is very balanced, super strong and responsive, and easily driven with what I've done. modulate it for smoothness easily, or drop the clutch and shudder your world. i like having my options on the table as a driver.

 

I have the same issues but my clutch looks okay but the pressure plate and flywheel are worn out on one side.

 

My dealer side because I have dirt in my box frame it was stick in mud. I live in a construction zone.. and use my truck for landscaping.

 

Just to confirm, you get a shudder in your urd heavy flywheel? I’ve been trying to figure out for the life of me what it is. It throws me off really badly. I thought it was the driveshaft and I just greased all the joints and have a shim on the cb. The shudder happens when moving from a stop only or if the truck is about to stall.

it’s a really heavy shudder like a giant picked up my truck and is shaking it

 

My stock clutch shudders bad when i first start in the morning if the air has cooled significantly or any time it rains.

After a few minutes driving and shifting it goes away.

I've gotten in the habit of actuating the clutch a few times in neutral before driving if it has been raining and it seems to help.

 

only if i drop the clutch, which i basically never do. it doesn't shudder with normal use. i have a resurfaced stock flywheel and the stage 2 clutch.

 

Gotta say, as someone who's looking at picking up a 2021 MT in the next few days, this thread is concerning. Is this a case of selection bias, or is there a genuine reason to reconsider a manual? Is the only way to get a more traditional clutch feel doing the ADM?

I'm already somewhat on the fence because of the (lack of) steering wheel and seat adjustment, with my knees tucked up against the steering wheel.

 

Sounds like you might want the tundra or other full size!

 

I am 5' 9" my knees hit the wheel. Also if you have any issues with the manual you are you on your own. My battle wirh toyota is getting interesting... 5 weeks in and I had a call today of toyota decling my warranty claiming a clutch rattle loud enough to hear over music is normal and my intake cause it. When I have video of it in stock form with the issue.

Its near impossible to provide it was not abuse especially when the dealer blames it on you. In my opinion wait for a better updated mid size truck comes around. Or get the gladiator with the diesel. If you are going to pay top $ on a vehicle i better get more than just "reliability" with the truck.

The issues that are keeping you from buying don't get better trust me.

My loner is a sr5 2020 Tundra, I really really don't like it. I have test driven all the major brands at this point and the tundra is the worst feeling the ride is awful and I get 14.5 MPG on the highway. Nothing would convince me to buy one.

 

I've had five Tacomas since 1998, all MT, but one and never had any clutch problems. It looks like a manufacturing defect to me.

 

What happened with this? Did Toyota replace it? My 2018 burned out the clutch before delivery as a new vehicle and the dealership replaced it. However they had not yet sold it to me and I had not paid for it so they really didnt have a choice.

120 mile drive to move from one deal to another and it burned the clutch out

 

How do you burn out a clutch in 120 miles?

Unless you give it like 5k rpms every time to get moving. Who the heck was driving that thing?

 

Back in late 80's early 90's l was test driving a new GTl and the salesman told me he just finished teaching a woman how to drive a MT. Apparently she bought a new Cabriolet from him not knowing how to drive it and fried the clutch the first day so his manager made him go teach her, lol.

 

2021 Tacoma bought in March. Currently at the dealership because of bad clutch shudder/vibration when in first or reverse. Dealership is claiming the whole assembly needs replaced and it is user error. Started around 1500 miles, currently at 2200. Told me there's signs it has been offroad because there's mud underneath it. Never had it offroad and I live in an area of many gravel/muddy roads so any vehicle is going to have mud under it regardless. Currently have a claim filed with Toyota corporate and they claim they are going to help me cover costs. We'll see how that turns out. Been driving manual for a long time and never had to replace a clutch before so I am highly doubting I burnt one out at 1500 miles

 

I think it's possible to ruin one in under 5 minutes if you really burn it up...there was that one 3rd gen thread awhile back where he posted about how his truck had broken down along with some videos of his recent offroading trip. He was attempting steep climbs and going over rocks in 4hi and basically riding the clutch the whole time, completely ruining it in one trip.

I mean before you get to that point you'd have to smell it burning like crazy, don't know how someone could ignore that but people are people sometimes.

 

Clutches, like brakes, are extremely easy for Toyota and any other automaker to claim wear and tear over because they see wear and tear daily, despite how good or bad of a driver you are. For this reason I think it would be virtually impossible to get them to admit it's a warranty issue unless there is a clear indication of fault on their part, and even then it's too easy with a wear item to just say 'not our fault'.

Not saying it isn't worth a try but I wouldn't hold my breath over getting any manufacturer to cover a wear and tear item.