2nd gen reg cab on tons

Thanks for the response!! The reason you needed to remove that was to be able to cutdown the width of the housing, correct? One would not need to mess with that step if you were going to maintain factory width?? Correct??
Great build and info!! I appreciate you sharing this on here!

 

Are you going to do fiberglass? tubbing? Bedcage?

 

Correct. The 2005+ Super Duty axles are all pretty wide (72" WMS-WMS), and the OP wanted to match the width of the rear 14 bolt axle (which is ~67.5" WMS-WMS) so he cut the housing down a few inches. This is not something someone normally needs to do for a SAS.

 

@Team_Jake is correct the sd 60 is way too wide for what i wanted. I needed it to match the 14 bolt to maintain the width i wanted. The tacoma wms is about 65.5, so im 1 inch wider on either side. I plan on launching this pig so i really dont want wheel spacers to take the load.

 

The bedcage may happen. I want more of a flatbed cause i still plan to use this for hunting and camping so i need to be able to haul shit. Plus my duck dogs need a place to kick it.
No tubbing or fiberglass fenders needed. I narrowed the front axle just enough that it looks and good not obnoxious .

 

Okay thanks!

 

got it!! Thanks y’all!!

 

Well got the rear tacked in and somewhat set

Built the shock hoops and set the strut at full bump.
I measured its around 22inches of travel in the rear.
The pic is the truck at full bump front and rear

 

That shock looks tiny in the rear. What’s the plans for it

 

Yeah its only a 10". Thats a lkng story but one reason i went with trailing arms was cause of that reason more wheel travel with shorter shock plus trailing arms are badass.

I measure it once its done for an accurate measurement but at least 20 inches of wheel travel is enough for me

 

Nice. Makes sense. Good use of spade if your trying to keep the bed.

my dads jeepster has trailing arms. They have benefits and down sides

 

Well got put on quarantine from work so i got 14 days of truck work.
- got all the shock hoops and mounts all good to go, mounted the strut and started to flex it and got about 2/3 of down travel with passenger stuffed to check flex and bam strut hit frame(very slow no damage). Well long story short i got pissed, and this was the result

 

So i have this for sale, no low ballers, i know what i have and its worth it-$2000
Pros
Surface rust
Not square
Bent
Random pieces of metal tacked to it
Most crossmembers and rivets missing

Con
Missing front half

 

Good work, you can't hit the frame now.

 

Yeah fuck that frame

 

Can i get a shipping quote to 29410? JK JK

 

Well got most of the rear welded. Seems like i have become a slave to my toyota. I can see the light though
Tomorrows plan:
Measure for rear and front driveline
Get tank mounted
Mount battery box
Finish the welding the rear
Strengthen the bed
Weld the rest of the front up

 

So i measured it out on the rear, i have about 18 inches of travel which i was hoping for and what i calculated. Ill see how it does if i need to go bigger thats why i built the hoops the way they are so itll be easy to change if needed. I put a space for 14 inch bypasses for later.

 

Got almost everything welded up. Just bits and pieces here and there.
Got my shock hoop cross beam in and the power steering cooler
Steering shaft is good to hook

 

Been a hot minute since i posted. Been super busy.
Built a race car