Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I see a lot of overtime in your future.

 

That’s what I’m doing to get the rest of the LT kit. Being a 3rd gen though. Gotta figure out the oil filter for a better rack or try that other non nameable company.

 

Lots of OT for me too. The to do list on the truck just never seems to get shorter.

 

That’s a tempting next step for me. Seriously.

Brian has driven for a few companies and built his fair share of trucks over the limited years. He is probably 75% the reason my truck works so well and turns out we grew up one town apart before we met 20 yrs later. The 3 link setup he had was amazing and the best handling truck I have ever ridden in. This is the internet with lots of keyboard warriors, including myself at times, but all I want is for people to get out and run their trucks.

 

Oh, you won’t offend me. There’s a reason I’m cheap.

Funny thing is I’ve never seen one of your welds.

 

What’s everyone doing spring wise on the +2.25? I’ve been emailed options for 16” 650lb or 18” 600lb. Honestly not sure what impact longer springs at a lower rate would have since they’re linear and the geometry is different. I have 14” 650lb right now on OEM replacement Kings and could probably stand to go to 600lb. 700lb were awful even though I have a good bit of weight up front.

 

There's smarter people than me that can answer this.
From what I understand, a longer spring with a lower weight capacity. Provides better spring control in the cycle of shock. Which translates to smoother ride and more.

 

More spring length= Less preload. Extremely generalized statement on my part but you get the idea. The more spring rate, the less preload you’d need to obtain your ride height. There are also ride quality characteristics in this but most people relate spring rate to obtaining ride height.

I’m running 16x600 on mine right now with .75” or so of preload. Steel hybrid bumper, winch, and JD LCA relocate.

 

Does anyone have any good shots of the high-clearance cuts on the front bumpers that they've done? I know Harry cut up a few Pelfrey bumpers, but I wasn't sure if anyone else had done something similar if you deleted that lower crossmember.

Right now I just have a quick piece of bent aluminum covering that triangle between the crossmember and the LCA pivot rack. The plan is to add some lightness to the truck and switch to an Al front and rear bumper over the winter, and I want to see how I'm going to have to modify things.

 

Harry is sending me some 600s right now and he recommended 18” to achieve a decent ride height without a lot of preload.

I had 14x600 on my oem kings and it was a great fit.

 

Idk if this is what you’re looking for but this is where I cut, how I modified my skid and built a bumper.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...h-angle-with-modified-skid-and-bumper.677127/

 

I think that’s what I’m leaning towards. 600lb should be Gucci. If anything the truck is getting a bit lighter. I’m shaving down everything I can. Remaking skids more wisely this time.

I finally ditched my tire carrier. I was tired of convincing myself that was a good idea. I hated that thing- truck felt like it was splitting in half with that cantilevered mass sticking out of the back, couldn’t see, reverse camera angle was shit because it wasn’t in its designed place, couldn’t let the tailgate down to put a mower or plywood in.

 

Ditching my swingout a couple of years ago was the best move over. I hated that thing.

 

Yep, perfect. That's basically what I'm thinking about doing. Thank you! That looks good.

 

That’s probably because I hadn’t done anything new to the truck in 5 years. I’m going to try to see if I can get away with using my TiG at home without finding HOA fines in my mailbox weekly. I’ve got a ton of stuff I still need to do. The noise from grinding / prep is my big problem where I live & My truck is too long to fit in my garage and be able to close the garage door so I also can’t do any multi day projects at home either.

When I was a kid we would rent space in industrial complexes and split the cost among 4-6 people so it was super affordable and that was always a great arrangement that gave everyone a hassle free spot to wrench. We took over a space that even had a paint booth once. I checked out a few spots around me recently for that purpose and was shocked at the rent $.

 

What it is that you'd have to TIG?

 

Im confused by your statement. Your being sent 16x600 and Harry recommended 18x600 to reduce preload?

 

I bought a new MiG/TiG a couple of years ago just because TiG is quieter and cleaner. I’ve only used it a few times but have received no complaints from neighbors or HOA issues yet. I also use a Milwaukee cordless die grinder with scotch discs to prep surfaces which is much quieter than my 4” grinder with flap discs.

 

True on both regards. I was just pondering how you would grind materials, as my corded Dewalt is crazy loud. I typically wear ear mufflers. My pneumatic die grinder is very loud as well.

I still need to reinforce the frame on my truck. Only tool is my TIG though. Driver side DMZ engine mount gusset is going to be tricky.

 

I can understand that. Wrenching in an HOA community is a recipe for fines. I’ve been in apartments for the past couple of years and borrowing friends equipment to get work done when needed. Less than ideal but you do what has to be done.

It wasn’t until recently where I manage to move into a place I have room to work so I picked up my own MIG machine. Nothing special but I’m stoked to have it available.

I’ve also looked into splitting a spot with friends who have similar interests but like you said, the costs are insane and make it not worth the effort.